Oil Tempreture 291*
12-18-2016, 10:50 AM
#1
Staging Lane
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Oil Tempreture 291* Anyone monitor their oil temperature on street driven turbo LS setups? This is a 30 minute drive with some interstate driving. Rpm's are about 3000 rpm for that middle stretch. Max i seen on the graph was 291* This normal for 1/2 filled block?
12-18-2016, 02:10 PM
#5
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Engine temps are rock solid. 197 with two 14" fans on a dual pass aluminum radiator. It has the stock thermostat in it. When idling in traffic it does get up to 210. Im just thinking at what point does the oil stop protecting everything at...
12-18-2016, 02:20 PM
#6
Originally Posted by TURBOLSBIRD
Engine temps are rock solid. 197 with two 14" fans on a dual pass aluminum radiator. It has the stock thermostat in it. When idling in traffic it does get up to 210. Im just thinking at what point does the oil stop protecting everything at...
Last edited by oscs; 12-18-2016 at 02:32 PM.
12-18-2016, 03:08 PM
#7
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197 cruising is 10-15* higher than I like to see on the freeway in moderate climates (70-90*) are your fans running when you're cruising on the freeway? Is 197* after a few pulls or just cruising around? 210* in traffic is pretty good. Most oils start to take a **** around 350*. With that said your viscosity at 291* is drastically higher than at 210-220. Last time my oil temps where through the roof like that it was a bearing issue. What does your setup look like? Do you have hot pipes hugging your pan etc? Any obvious reasons oil temps would be high? What are your pressures like at Hot idle/cruising/WOT? What car is this? Any pics?
Yes the fans are on when cruising. My down pipe is the only thing that is close it is 3" away from the side of the pan and it is wrapped real well.
200* IDLE 45 psi 54 psi cruising at 3000rpm
291* IDLE 28 psi 44 psi cruising at 3000rpm
Did not go WOT on this recording
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12-18-2016, 03:15 PM
#8
Oil pressure looks real good. How long has the motor been together? Cruising temps aren't the best and Your fans shouldn't be running while cruising I would say you have an airflow issue but you have a filled block so I can't comment on how well they cool as I have no experience with them.
12-18-2016, 05:32 PM
#9
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You need some means of testing that sensor, because that seems like an unrealistic temperature reading.
A trace of coolant temp and oil temp might reveal a little more.
What sensor are you using, where is it located, and are you sure the calibration for the sensor is correct within the ecu ?
A trace of coolant temp and oil temp might reveal a little more.
What sensor are you using, where is it located, and are you sure the calibration for the sensor is correct within the ecu ?
12-18-2016, 05:54 PM
#10
i used to mess with hardbloked motors. I'm not sure why I can say that hasnt been said a million times before. there are probably 100 threads on YB alone.
that your pressure didnt drop precipitously on the other side of 280* makes me think you have some decent oil in it. like oscs said, modern oils will lubricate to around 350* and rapidly oxidize after that.
you might think about adding an oil cooler. around 240* is where you wanna be. hot enough to easily boil out any water vapor from combustion gasses that slip past the rings, but not so hot to oxidize and degrade the oil.
that your pressure didnt drop precipitously on the other side of 280* makes me think you have some decent oil in it. like oscs said, modern oils will lubricate to around 350* and rapidly oxidize after that.
you might think about adding an oil cooler. around 240* is where you wanna be. hot enough to easily boil out any water vapor from combustion gasses that slip past the rings, but not so hot to oxidize and degrade the oil.
12-18-2016, 06:00 PM
#11
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You need some means of testing that sensor, because that seems like an unrealistic temperature reading.
A trace of coolant temp and oil temp might reveal a little more.
What sensor are you using, where is it located, and are you sure the calibration for the sensor is correct within the ecu ?
A trace of coolant temp and oil temp might reveal a little more.
What sensor are you using, where is it located, and are you sure the calibration for the sensor is correct within the ecu ?
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ture-ECU-Input
The sensor is on the drivers side of the pan
12-18-2016, 06:02 PM
#12
Originally Posted by truckdoug
i used to mess with hardbloked motors. I'm not sure why I can say that hasnt been said a million times before. there are probably 100 threads on YB alone.
that your pressure didnt drop precipitously on the other side of 280* makes me think you have some decent oil in it. like oscs said, modern oils will lubricate to around 350* and rapidly oxidize after that.
you might think about adding an oil cooler. around 240* is where you wanna be. hot enough to easily boil out any water vapor from combustion gasses that slip past the rings, but not so hot to oxidize and degrade the oil.
that your pressure didnt drop precipitously on the other side of 280* makes me think you have some decent oil in it. like oscs said, modern oils will lubricate to around 350* and rapidly oxidize after that.
you might think about adding an oil cooler. around 240* is where you wanna be. hot enough to easily boil out any water vapor from combustion gasses that slip past the rings, but not so hot to oxidize and degrade the oil.
12-18-2016, 06:27 PM
#14
Originally Posted by truckdoug
yeah but steve is always trippin on the sensors 
what i see in that screen grab makes sense. if anything stands out its that the pressure didnt fall way off above 280*
prolly runnin that rotella t6
what i see in that screen grab makes sense. if anything stands out its that the pressure didnt fall way off above 280*
prolly runnin that rotella t6