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Setup Wont build boost on footbrake or 2 step. Ideas?

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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 11:24 AM
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Default Setup Wont build boost on footbrake or 2 step. Ideas?

Im new to the boost thing and have almost completed my first project. Car drives well and hits full boost (8lb gate pressure) by 3500rpm. Car is a 383 LT1 TH400 billet S480 T6 226/226 cam.

I am not a not a converter guy but I have a 3k stall converter (local built custom converter) and when I try to footbrake it, it builds zero boost. Then i tried the same thing with my transbrake and upped it to 3500 rpm for 3 or 4 seconds and zero boost was built.

I dont have any boost leaks but I was wondering am I not building boost because my 2 step is not installed? Maybe it takes WOT to build boost and the 2 step would help. I thought at least by foot braking and tbraking it, it would at least build a couple pounds.

Do yall have any idea on why is this an issue? Does it sound like the converter is too tight? 2 step installation needed?
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 02:00 PM
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Check out the first 20 seconds of this video. This just so happens to be a cast s480 turbo also. The first time I rev the car is with the 2 step DISABLED and only using the transbrake. As you can see, there is a ton of load, and the car goes to make gobs of boost and push through the converter instantly. Then the next time I rev it, is with the 2 step ACTIVATED and you can hear that it makes a steady amount of boost just fine.


If I had to guess what was up with your system, I would think that maybe you either have a leak in the system (Hot side) or that your wastegates open way too early and don't allow your exhaust to build the pressure to drive the turbo.
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by SwampWS6
...Maybe it takes WOT to build boost...
If you just brought the rpms up and didn't give it any more pedal... could explain it.
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 93camaro_zzz

If I had to guess what was up with your system, I would think that maybe you either have a leak in the system (Hot side) or that your wastegates open way too early and don't allow your exhaust to build the pressure to drive the turbo.
Thanks for the input. Im leaning towards the wastegates are opening too soon idea. But it baffles me that when Im datalogging and go WOT it hits boost fine and makes a total of 7.69lbs pretty consistent. So why would it be different when stalling up?
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by SethU
If you just brought the rpms up and didn't give it any more pedal... could explain it.
Im not following you on this. I thought at least footbraking would net a couple pounds. I thought I should bring up the Rs up for at least 3-5 secs and then see at least 1-4lbs of boost.....
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 02:54 PM
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Does the car have a blowoff that is plumbed to the intake? If it does, it wont build boost until WOT. Put it on the transbrake at wot as this is how its supposed to be used. Even without the two step it will only go as high as the stall of the converter so there is no need to be at part throttle.
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Old Jan 1, 2017 | 09:28 AM
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Data logging any of these "tests"?
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Old Jan 1, 2017 | 01:23 PM
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Get it to where it's just stuttering on the two step.
Around 3000 rpm.
Then floor it. It should make boost.
Data log it. You might have to play with the timing some.
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Old Jan 5, 2017 | 08:56 AM
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Thanks guys.

I finally figured it out. I wasnt making positive boost until 4037rpm via my data logger. So I stalled car up on footbrake to 3000 and then from 3000-4000 on the brake it made boost. Didnt even have to go WOT. So I will remove converter and get it restalled for about 4000 this time around. The car felt and sounded like it was prepared for take off!
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Old Jan 5, 2017 | 03:02 PM
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don't be to fast to up the stall just yet. you don't want that converter to slip to 4000 or you will blow right thru it when in boost. if it hits boost by 4000 without a 2 step it will make boost at 32-3400 on the 2 step when floored.

if what your telling me is it makes boost on the trans break at 4000 that's good. you need the load to produce heat in the exaust to get it spooling. and a t break plus 2 step at 3400 or so should get you close to a decent launch and you can adjust the 2 step from there for the desired launch /boost.

at 10 #boost I bet your current converter will be near 5000 and that's not to far off to start.
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Old Jan 5, 2017 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by yenkomike
don't be to fast to up the stall just yet. you don't want that converter to slip to 4000 or you will blow right thru it when in boost. if it hits boost by 4000 without a 2 step it will make boost at 32-3400 on the 2 step when floored.

if what your telling me is it makes boost on the trans break at 4000 that's good. you need the load to produce heat in the exaust to get it spooling. and a t break plus 2 step at 3400 or so should get you close to a decent launch and you can adjust the 2 step from there for the desired launch /boost.

at 10 #boost I bet your current converter will be near 5000 and that's not to far off to start.
I agree with yenkomike. I would get it tuned properly on the brake and two step at wide open throttle and see where its at. Boost or nitrous makes a big difference on stall. I had a 68 camaro pro charger big block that would only stall 3000 RPMs with the belt off it on the transbrake. On the transbrake with just boost it was at 5000 and on boost with a 250 shot it was 6000 on the brake. Point being if the tune or timing is not optimal or your not at wot on the trans brake with the two step then you really have no idea where the stall is going to be or how much boost you can make on the leave. Still not sure why your not testing this at wot...it needs to be wide open there's no point in knowing it makes boost at part throttle as that's not how you should be leaving with it.
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Old Jan 5, 2017 | 11:32 PM
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My converter only stalls to 2500 rpm on the t brake and I can still manage as much boost as I want playing with the tune. It just takes a while. If your converter gets to 4000 rpm before boost its already too loose.

What I thought was the best it could be

What I ended up with after trying many different tune strategies.

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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by yenkomike
don't be to fast to up the stall just yet. you don't want that converter to slip to 4000 or you will blow right thru it when in boost. if it hits boost by 4000 without a 2 step it will make boost at 32-3400 on the 2 step when floored.

if what your telling me is it makes boost on the trans break at 4000 that's good. you need the load to produce heat in the exaust to get it spooling. and a t break plus 2 step at 3400 or so should get you close to a decent launch and you can adjust the 2 step from there for the desired launch /boost.

at 10 #boost I bet your current converter will be near 5000 and that's not to far off to start.
Good info. Thanks. I was wondering if the 2 step was added in the equation it would help out alot. I am guessing that if the current stall is 3000 and it flashes to 3500, then ideally, that is exactly where I want to be. That should produce the right amount of slippage off the line is my understanding....
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by vinceI
I agree with yenkomike. I would get it tuned properly on the brake and two step at wide open throttle and see where its at. Boost or nitrous makes a big difference on stall. I had a 68 camaro pro charger big block that would only stall 3000 RPMs with the belt off it on the transbrake. On the transbrake with just boost it was at 5000 and on boost with a 250 shot it was 6000 on the brake. Point being if the tune or timing is not optimal or your not at wot on the trans brake with the two step then you really have no idea where the stall is going to be or how much boost you can make on the leave. Still not sure why your not testing this at wot...it needs to be wide open there's no point in knowing it makes boost at part throttle as that's not how you should be leaving with it.
Well from my experiences, most do not have tbrakes or 2 steps but they seem to be able to make boost on the footbrake. So I was thinking I could make at least 1lb while footbraking. I built this combo myself so there are tons of things I dont know and I need to learn and going wot while testing to make sure everything is right is one of them. But everything you have said so far makes a lot more sense. So I will get 2 step installed and will be going back to dyno on the 16th of this month to get everything ironed out.
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 09:37 AM
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Yes, the 2-step will help out a lot. I don't have a transbrake and can barely make positive pressure without the 2-step engaged. With the 2-step set at 3400 I can make 8-9 lbs. and cut high 1.3 60's off the footbrake.
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 09:37 AM
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I'm in agreement with the others.
Ayou going to drag race the car?
If so, you will learn much more about the converter behavior at that time.
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Nitroused383
My converter only stalls to 2500 rpm on the t brake and I can still manage as much boost as I want playing with the tune. It just takes a while. If your converter gets to 4000 rpm before boost its already too loose.
Well without the 2 step installed, I dont see me having to go all the way up to 4000 to make boost. I think that I was missing the boat on being able to go WOT in order to properly make boost. Without having a limiter to keep me from going too high in the rpm, I didnt want to risk causing havoc on parts.

So I have come to the conclusion that the converter that I currently have may be a pretty close fit to what I need. I just need that 2 step installed and some fine tuning.

What 2 step did you use and what adjusts did you make to the tune to make it all work? Just curious...
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by RedRocketZ28
Yes, the 2-step will help out a lot. I don't have a transbrake and can barely make positive pressure without the 2-step engaged. With the 2-step set at 3400 I can make 8-9 lbs. and cut high 1.3 60's off the footbrake.
What is your gate pressure set at? Mine is 8#. I am wondering if I could make 8# on the brake
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
I'm in agreement with the others.
Ayou going to drag race the car?
If so, you will learn much more about the converter behavior at that time.
Yes sir I will be. Shooting for 1.3x 60ft. So, I have to get this figured out quick. Race season is almost here!
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SwampWS6
I think that I was missing the boat on being able to go WOT in order to properly make boost. Without having a limiter to keep me from going too high in the rpm, I didnt want to risk causing havoc on parts
The rpms at wot on the transbrake will only go to the stall of the converter so you wont be over revving the engine at all. The two step will allow you to lower the rpms to a point lower than the stall of the converter. Also I asked in an earlier post if you had a blow off. If the blow off is plumbed to a vacuum source (on the intake side of the throttle body) this will cause a huge boost leak until you get to wot and/or overcome that leak to build boost. If you disconnect the vacuum line from the blow off you may be able to build boost easier for part throttle testing.
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