Water mister in front of the FMIC.......does it work....?
Water mister in front of the FMIC.......does it work....? I was wondering if anyone has tried putting a bunch of mister nozzles in front of the FMIC surface........just spraying water.
Does it decrease the air charge temps A LOT........or did it not work....?
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Does it decrease the air charge temps A LOT........or did it not work....?
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Ohio
We used to do it at the track, but not with a system mounted on the car.
We would spray the intercooler with C02 until it would frost over and then make a pass.
IATs would be 40* below normal (which was however much below ambient).
We would spray the intercooler with C02 until it would frost over and then make a pass.
IATs would be 40* below normal (which was however much below ambient).
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9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
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From: Norn Iron
A lot depends on why you want to use it..and are you ok with water potentially dripping from the front of the car. If it's for the drag strip....the track owners wont be happy with that.
But of course yes it can work. Some good articles here and good implementation of a system, there are a few upgrades over time.
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article...-Part-1&A=0527
Also some rally cars like the Evo and Subaru did also use systems ( not quite like the road car versions though ) so anyone who says it does not work...are just totally wrong.
Are there potentially better options ? Of course there are, so again it depends on your reasons for wanting to use such a system.
If it didnt work to help cool charge air ( indirectly by helping keep the core itself cool ).nobody would ever use water based chargecooling systems, which are just taking water spray to an end goal really by encompassing the cooling unit with water.
But of course yes it can work. Some good articles here and good implementation of a system, there are a few upgrades over time.
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article...-Part-1&A=0527
Also some rally cars like the Evo and Subaru did also use systems ( not quite like the road car versions though ) so anyone who says it does not work...are just totally wrong.
Are there potentially better options ? Of course there are, so again it depends on your reasons for wanting to use such a system.
If it didnt work to help cool charge air ( indirectly by helping keep the core itself cool ).nobody would ever use water based chargecooling systems, which are just taking water spray to an end goal really by encompassing the cooling unit with water.
Thanks for all the replies.
100% street car doing highway pulls. NOT a drag strip car.
I was figuring being down here in South Florida it would help out with temps.
My 390ci iron block.....S485 with race cover. Huron Speed single turbo kit retaining A/C.
4L80E...3600 triple disc FTI converter.
3:73 rear gears for now. Going to drop to 3:23 soon.
And yes....big tires. 345 Hoosiers or MT drags in the rear. I just had my rear wheels widened to 12.5".
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100% street car doing highway pulls. NOT a drag strip car.
I was figuring being down here in South Florida it would help out with temps.
My 390ci iron block.....S485 with race cover. Huron Speed single turbo kit retaining A/C.
4L80E...3600 triple disc FTI converter.
3:73 rear gears for now. Going to drop to 3:23 soon.
And yes....big tires. 345 Hoosiers or MT drags in the rear. I just had my rear wheels widened to 12.5".
.
Last edited by LS6427; Jan 29, 2017 at 08:20 AM.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
Thanks for all the replies.
100% street car doing highway pulls. NOT a drag strip car.
I was figuring being down here in South Florida it would help out with temps.
My 390ci iron block.....S485 with race cover. Huron Speed single turbo kit retaining A/C.
4L80E...3600 triple disc FTI converter.
3:73 rear gears for now. Going to drop to 3:23 soon.
And yes....big tires. 345 Hoosiers or MT drags in the rear. I just had my rear wheels widened to 12.5".
.
100% street car doing highway pulls. NOT a drag strip car.
I was figuring being down here in South Florida it would help out with temps.
My 390ci iron block.....S485 with race cover. Huron Speed single turbo kit retaining A/C.
4L80E...3600 triple disc FTI converter.
3:73 rear gears for now. Going to drop to 3:23 soon.
And yes....big tires. 345 Hoosiers or MT drags in the rear. I just had my rear wheels widened to 12.5".
.
But if you dont want to do that, then as the Autospeed article covers very well, spraying a fine mist of water onto the IC core can help reduce charge temps and allow the core to work better.
Of course it works! Especially for the cost...which is basically nothing.
Works especially well if you have a small or heat soaked IC. Use distilled water so it won't leave deposits on the aluminum as it evaporates. Use alot of volume atomized as finely as possible. I used multiple irrigation misters on the stock IC on my 2.0 liter DSM. Also sprayed it pre-turbo.
Might as well be spraying it in the motor as well for the additional cost of a nozzle and some hose. No reason not to. Little goes a long way with straight water in the engine. I sprayed 5gph worth of nozzle pre-turbo and 20gph on the tiny stock IC. I'd spike to 28lbs with that setup. Was noticeably down on power without the IC mister active. Also worked great to cool down the IC core before a race.
Not saying it's going to give you massive amounts of power if you already have a huge IC that does it's job well, but every little bit helps and it's dirt cheap to do.
Works especially well if you have a small or heat soaked IC. Use distilled water so it won't leave deposits on the aluminum as it evaporates. Use alot of volume atomized as finely as possible. I used multiple irrigation misters on the stock IC on my 2.0 liter DSM. Also sprayed it pre-turbo.
Might as well be spraying it in the motor as well for the additional cost of a nozzle and some hose. No reason not to. Little goes a long way with straight water in the engine. I sprayed 5gph worth of nozzle pre-turbo and 20gph on the tiny stock IC. I'd spike to 28lbs with that setup. Was noticeably down on power without the IC mister active. Also worked great to cool down the IC core before a race.
Not saying it's going to give you massive amounts of power if you already have a huge IC that does it's job well, but every little bit helps and it's dirt cheap to do.
Last edited by Forcefed86; Jan 29, 2017 at 12:31 PM.
Of course it works! Especially for the cost...which is basically nothing.
Works especially well if you have a small or heat soaked IC. Use distilled water so it won't leave deposits on the aluminum as it evaporates. Use alot of volume atomized as finely as possible. I used multiple irrigation misters on the stock IC on my 2.0 liter DSM. Also sprayed it pre-turbo.
Might as well be spraying it in the motor as well for the additional cost of a nozzle and some hose. No reason not to. Little goes a long way with straight water in the engine. I sprayed 5gph worth of nozzle pre-turbo and 20gph on the tiny stock IC. I'd spike to 28lbs with that setup. Was noticeably down on power without the IC mister active. Also worked great to cool down the IC core before a race.
Not saying it's going to give you massive amounts of power if you already have a huge IC that does it's job well, but every little bit helps and it's dirt cheap to do.
Works especially well if you have a small or heat soaked IC. Use distilled water so it won't leave deposits on the aluminum as it evaporates. Use alot of volume atomized as finely as possible. I used multiple irrigation misters on the stock IC on my 2.0 liter DSM. Also sprayed it pre-turbo.
Might as well be spraying it in the motor as well for the additional cost of a nozzle and some hose. No reason not to. Little goes a long way with straight water in the engine. I sprayed 5gph worth of nozzle pre-turbo and 20gph on the tiny stock IC. I'd spike to 28lbs with that setup. Was noticeably down on power without the IC mister active. Also worked great to cool down the IC core before a race.
Not saying it's going to give you massive amounts of power if you already have a huge IC that does it's job well, but every little bit helps and it's dirt cheap to do.
I guess a Meth Kit is a winner no matter what.
Question:
If Meth stops spraying during a hard run....does anything negative happen?
Does Meth start spraying automatically when a certain amount of boost is reached?
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Ultimately water/meth will yield better potential for more power, and generally just be the better option.
But if you dont want to do that, then as the Autospeed article covers very well, spraying a fine mist of water onto the IC core can help reduce charge temps and allow the core to work better.
But if you dont want to do that, then as the Autospeed article covers very well, spraying a fine mist of water onto the IC core can help reduce charge temps and allow the core to work better.
What Meth kit would you recommend...?
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9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
Depends on what kit you buy and how you set it up. But most kits will inject based on boost pressure.
As for which...they're all fairly similar really.
IMO Aquamist offers the best kit in terms of features and safety.
Prometh/IAS make very good stuff and have some excellent tanks.
Many seem to love Alky control, although no idea what it does any differently or better than any of the others.
Devilsown also make decent stuff.
Really...the choice is up to you.