The car is finally running like it looks, dyno results...
#1
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The car is finally running like it looks, dyno results...
ATI Procharger, running actual 6# of boost.
You guys are all correct tuning is the key. I am very happy so far. We shut it down at the Dyno at 4600 rpms because it was getting lean. I will be putting in 42# injectors tomorrow and purchased a LM1 A/F meter with the rpm hookup to have more accurate tuning starting next week. Then back to the dyno.
Dynoed 448.1 RWHP and 471.7 RWTQ.
My old best was 392 rwhp and 378 rwtq. Who would of thought tuning my car would give another almost 100 rwtq.
There is a lot of power sitting there from 2800rpms - 4000rpms because the car was running very rich at that range killing the power.
I am really happy.
I do a lot of reading here and all of you have been a big help, special thanks to James at Diablo Sport for the tuning he has done thus far.
To see the day where you email tuning back and forth for a car just amazes me.
You guys are all correct tuning is the key. I am very happy so far. We shut it down at the Dyno at 4600 rpms because it was getting lean. I will be putting in 42# injectors tomorrow and purchased a LM1 A/F meter with the rpm hookup to have more accurate tuning starting next week. Then back to the dyno.
Dynoed 448.1 RWHP and 471.7 RWTQ.
My old best was 392 rwhp and 378 rwtq. Who would of thought tuning my car would give another almost 100 rwtq.
There is a lot of power sitting there from 2800rpms - 4000rpms because the car was running very rich at that range killing the power.
I am really happy.
I do a lot of reading here and all of you have been a big help, special thanks to James at Diablo Sport for the tuning he has done thus far.
To see the day where you email tuning back and forth for a car just amazes me.
Last edited by Todd2001SS; 06-24-2004 at 01:41 PM.
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Yep, I also learned it's all in the tuning . . .
So to tune with the LM-1, you need the LM-1, the aux cable #2, and the inductive clamp? Which is $350 + 99 + 20, right?
- Dug
So to tune with the LM-1, you need the LM-1, the aux cable #2, and the inductive clamp? Which is $350 + 99 + 20, right?
- Dug
#5
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Nice #'s
You don't need the inductive clamp. You can just tap into your tach signal at the pcm and run the line to the aux cable. Thats what I did and it works great.
It's so nice to know what's going on with the A/F vs rpm
Originally Posted by ChevyNo1
Yep, I also learned it's all in the tuning . . .
So to tune with the LM-1, you need the LM-1, the aux cable #2, and the inductive clamp? Which is $350 + 99 + 20, right?
- Dug
So to tune with the LM-1, you need the LM-1, the aux cable #2, and the inductive clamp? Which is $350 + 99 + 20, right?
- Dug
It's so nice to know what's going on with the A/F vs rpm
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Originally Posted by ChevyNo1
Yep, I also learned it's all in the tuning . . .
So to tune with the LM-1, you need the LM-1, the aux cable #2, and the inductive clamp? Which is $350 + 99 + 20, right?
- Dug
So to tune with the LM-1, you need the LM-1, the aux cable #2, and the inductive clamp? Which is $350 + 99 + 20, right?
- Dug
Honestly I see no other way to tune a blower correctly without a A/F meter unless you have a place at a dyno shop that tunes LS1 cars. In Seattle there is no one that tunes LS1's, so this will work perfect for me to send infor to Diablo Sport and nail it down. Then I can tweek it when I want. Spending $150 at a dyno to see if the A\F from the tune is correct each time is nuts. This will pay for itself.
Hard to believe I was sitting on all the power without a tune. Plus now I will be running the motor a lot safer.
#7
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Ditto, I have my LM-1 installed now and no longer have to go to a dyno session to get an a/f graph. I just can go to the track and pay 10 bucks to get as many WOT passes I want. $$ in the bank if you ask me. I also got my LM-1 from a member here that used it once to tune his car and sold it to me for 265 I can't wait to start logging info at the track or anytime I am on the street and send that info to NoGo so he can fix me up with another "email tune up"
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Originally Posted by frcefed98
Ditto, I have my LM-1 installed now and no longer have to go to a dyno session to get an a/f graph. I just can go to the track and pay 10 bucks to get as many WOT passes I want. $$ in the bank if you ask me. I also got my LM-1 from a member here that used it once to tune his car and sold it to me for 265 I can't wait to start logging info at the track or anytime I am on the street and send that info to NoGo so he can fix me up with another "email tune up"
Sorry just read the above.
Originally Posted by Smokin 01
You don't need the inductive clamp. You can just tap into your tach signal at the pcm and run the line to the aux cable. Thats what I did and it works great.
Last edited by Todd2001SS; 06-24-2004 at 06:44 PM.
#9
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Originally Posted by Todd2001SS
I have not received mine yet but where and how did you hook up the rpm part of it?
Sorry just read the above.
I agree. Which wire is it? Thanks.
Sorry just read the above.
I agree. Which wire is it? Thanks.
Pin 10 (white) Connector C2 Red.
I just used a quick connect splice on the wire about 5" from the pcm. Than ran a wire through the grommet in the passenger side firewall under the pcm to my aux cable's rpm input. Plug the cable in to the LM1 set the default in the software to read rpm and your good to go
Just checked out your car domain pics. Very clean and holy bling
I see your using the ATI supplied FMU. Word of warning. Keep your eye on your FP with that. Mine took a poop out of nowhere. Ran 70psi when it was working but dropped to high 40's when it crapped. Opened it up and the piston inside had a build up on it that was keeping it from moving up and down freely. Cleaned it but a week later same thing.
2001 Power-train Control Module (PCM) Connector End Views
Connector C1
Blue
Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function
1
BLK/WHT
451
PCM Ground
2
LT GRN
1867
12 Volt Reference
3
PNK/BLK
1746
Fuel Injector 3 Control
4
LT GRN/BLK
1745
Fuel Injector 2 Control
5-7
--
--
Not Used
8
GRA
596
5 Volt Reference
9-10
--
--
Not Used
11
LT BLU
1876
KS [2] Signal
12
DK BLU/WHT
1869
CKP Sensor Signal
13-16
--
--
Not Used
17
DK BLU
1225
Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal B
18
ORN
1226
Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal C
19
PNK
439
Ignition 1 Voltage
20
RD/WHT
340
Battery Positive Voltage
21
YEL/BLK
1868
Low Reference
22
--
--
Not Used
23
GRA
720
Low Reference
24
--
--
Not Used
25
TAN
1671
HO2S Low Signal [Bank 2 Sensor 2]
26
TAN
1667
HO2S Low Signal [Bank 2 Sensor 1]
27
--
--
Not Used
28
TAN/WHT
1669
HO2S Low Signal [Bank 1 Sensor X]
29
TAN/WHT
1653
HO2S Low Signal [Bank 1 Sensor 1]
30-31
--
--
Not Used
32
GRY
48
CPP Switch Signal
33
PPL
420
TCC Brake Switch Signal
34
ORN/BLK
434
Neutral Safety Switch Signal
35
--
--
Not Used
36
TAN
1744
Fuel Injector 1 Control
37
YEL/BLK
846
Fuel Injector 6 Control
38-39
--
--
Not Used
40
BLK/WHT
451
Ground
41
--
--
Not Used
42
DK GRN
335
Low Speed Cooling Fan Relay Control
43
ORN/BLK
877
Fuel Injector 7 Control
44
LT BLU/BLK
844
Fuel Injector 4 Control
45
GRA
474
5 Volt Reference (A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor)
46
GRA
474
5 Volt Reference (Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor)
47
--
--
Not Used
48
GRA
416
5 Volt Reference (MAP Sensor)
49-50
--
--
Not Used
51
DK BLU
496
KS [1] Signal
52
--
--
Not Used
53
TAN
407
Low Referecne (Transmission Temperature Sensor)
54
TAN
407
Low Reference (MAP Sensor Ground)
55
--
--
Not Used
56
--
--
Not Used
57
RD/WHT
340
Battery Positive Voltage
58
DK GRN
1049
ECM/PCM/VCM Class 2 Serial Data
59
--
--
Not Used
60
TAN
452
Low Reference
61
PNK/BLK
632
Low Reference (Camshaft Position Sensor)
62-64
--
--
Not Used
65
PPL
1670
HO2S High Signal [Bank 2 Sensor 2]
66
PPL
1666
HO2S High Signal [Bank 2 Sensor 1]
67
--
--
Not Used
68
PPL/WHT
1668
HO2S High Signal [Bank 1 Sensor X]
69
PPL/WHT
1665
HO2S High Signal [Bank 1 Sensor 1]
70
BRN
1174
Oil Level Switch Signal
71-72
--
--
Not Used
73
BRN/WHT
633
CMP Sensor Signal
74
YEL
410
ECT Sensor Signal
75
--
--
Not Used
76
TAN/WHT
845
Fuel Injector 5 Control
77
DK BLU/WHT
878
Fuel Injector 8 Control
78
--
--
Not Used
79
GRA or WHT
587 or 687
Skip Shift Solenoid Control (M/T) or 3-2 Shift Solenoid Control (A/T)
80
TAN
407
Low Reference
Connector C2
Red
Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function
1
BLK/WHT
451
Ground
2
BRN
418
TCC Solenoid - Output - PWM
3
--
--
Not Used
4
PPL
421
Air Injection Reaction Solenoid Relay - Coil - Control
5
--
--
Not Used
6
ORN/BLK
1228
PC Solenoid Valve High Control (Sol.A)
7
--
--
Not Used
8
LT BLU/WHT
1229
PC Solenoid Valve Low Control (Sol.A)
9
DK GRN/WHT
465
Fuel Pump Relay Control [Primary]
10 ---------------------------------------------
WHT ---------------------------------------------
121 ---------------------------------------------
Engine Speed Signal ------------------------------------
11-12
--
--
Not Used
13
WHT
85
Cruise Control Engage Signal
14
ORN/BLK
380
A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Signal
15
ORN
225
Generator Turn ON Signal
16
--
--
Not Used
17
DK GRN/WHT
762
A/C Request Signal
18
DK GRN
59
A/C Compressor Clutch Supply Voltage
19
--
--
Not Used
20
LT GRN/BLK
822
VSS Low Signal
21
PPL/WHT
821
VSS High Signal
22-23
--
--
Not Used
24
DK BLU
417
TP Sensor Signal
25
TAN
472
IAT Sensor Signal
26
PPL
2121
IC 1 Control
27
ORN
2127
IC 7 Control
28
LT BLU/WHT
2126
IC 6 Control
29
DK GRN/WHT
2124
IC 4 Control
30
DK BLU
229
Fuel Enable Control
31
YEL
492
MAF Sensor Signal
32
LT GRN
432
MAP Sensor Signal
33
DK BLU
473
High Speed Cooling Fan Relay Control
34
DK GRN/WHT
428
EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid Control
35
--
--
Not Used
36
BRN
436
AIR Pump Relay Control
37
DK GRN
83
Cruise Control Inhibit Signal
38
--
--
Not Used
39
ORN
631
12 Volt Reference
40
BLK/WHT
451
Ground
41
--
--
Not Used
42
TAN/BLK
422
TCC Solenoid Valve Control
43
DK GRN/WHT
459
A/C Clutch Relay Control
44
LT GRN
1652
Reverse Lock Out Solenoid Control
45
WHT
1310
EVAP Canister Vent Solenoid Control
46
BRN/WHT
419
MIL Control
47
YEL/BLK
1223
2 - 3 Shift Solenoid Valve Control
48
LT GRN
1222
1 - 2 Shift Solenoid Valve Control
49
--
--
Not Used
50
DK GRN/WHT
817
VSS Signal
51
YEL/BLK
1227
TFT Sensor Signal
52
--
--
Not Used
53
GRA/BLK
1687
Ignition Retard Signal
54
PPL
1589
Fuel Level Sensor Signal
55-56
--
--
Not Used
57
PPL
719
Low Reference
58-59
--
--
Not Used
60
BRN
2129
Low Reference
61
BRN/WHT
2130
Low Reference
62
--
--
Not Used
63
PNK
1224
Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal A
64
DK GRN
890
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Signal
65
--
--
Not Used
66
PPL/WHT
2128
IC 8 Control
67
ORN/WHT
2122
IC 2 Control
68
DK GRN
2125
IC 5 Control
69
LT BLU
2123
IC 3 Control
70-75
--
--
Not Used
76
LT GRN/WHT
1749
IAC Coil B High Control
77
LT GRN/BLK
444
IAC Coil B Low Control
78
LT BLU/BLK
1748
IAC Coil A Low Control
79
LT BLU/WHT
1747
IAC Coil A High Control
80
--
--
Not Used
Last edited by SSmokin 01; 06-24-2004 at 11:05 PM.
#10
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Originally Posted by SSmokin 01
Pin 10 (white) Connector C2 Red.
I just used a quick connect splice on the wire about 5" from the pcm. Than ran a wire through the grommet in the passenger side firewall under the pcm to my aux cable's rpm input. Plug the cable in to the LM1 set the default in the software to read rpm and your good to go
Just checked out your car domain pics. Very clean and holy bling
I see your using the ATI supplied FMU. Word of warning. Keep your eye on your FP with that. Mine took a poop out of nowhere. Ran 70psi when it was working but dropped to high 40's when it crapped. Opened it up and the piston inside had a build up on it that was keeping it from moving up and down freely. Cleaned it but a week later same thing.
I just used a quick connect splice on the wire about 5" from the pcm. Than ran a wire through the grommet in the passenger side firewall under the pcm to my aux cable's rpm input. Plug the cable in to the LM1 set the default in the software to read rpm and your good to go
Just checked out your car domain pics. Very clean and holy bling
I see your using the ATI supplied FMU. Word of warning. Keep your eye on your FP with that. Mine took a poop out of nowhere. Ran 70psi when it was working but dropped to high 40's when it crapped. Opened it up and the piston inside had a build up on it that was keeping it from moving up and down freely. Cleaned it but a week later same thing.
Those pics are old, I removed the FMU, it was causing to much trouble. The FMU never worked correctly with more than 3# of boost, it would hit 85# of FP and kill the car with fuel at 3k rpms or so.
Again thanks I will check out the wires tomorrow to plan for the routing of the LM1 rpm wire.