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the other issue with rear mounted, other than the typical heat and oil, is that sizing plays a significant role in how your setup runs, and the less matched your setup is, the more it exasperates the problem. I think this is why STS stuck to such a small turbo for their kits because it could bandaid the boost isses by spooling the **** out of a tiny turbo and still build 5 to 10 lbs of boost with leaks, but as you begin to add different items, you have to start sizing and preping better to keep stuff working right, or you start chasing your tail. I spooled "decent" with a t76 .96 turbo, but I had to wrap the entire exhaust, quadruple check couplers, welds, and vacuum lines, that would pop up out of no where for leaks lol and then fight an oil pump that supplied too much oil even with a restrictor. It sounded amazing on boost, and loved the sound of the turbo everytime it spooled out the back, but it was time to move on for me, especially once it **** oil all over my garage when the oil pump harness melted on the header somehow. that was my fault. but I wanted to do a front mount now.
Mine was just a total mix and match, and ddnspider is right...left a sour taste.
The Huron GP thread is about the most confusing post I have ever read, as far as the actual details go...lol. I cant wait as long as they're hinting it will be. If I do the swap back, I want to be done before they say they'll even start shipping.
Mine had lag for days.....10.85@137, like an old Supra, lol.
I could not build any boost onnstart line no matter what...I even tried a 100hp dry shot...which is how the car ended up being a "nitrous" car, fwiw.
Mine was just a total mix and match, and ddnspider is right...left a sour taste.
The Huron GP thread is about the most confusing post I have ever read, as far as the actual details go...lol. I cant wait as long as they're hinting it will be. If I do the swap back, I want to be done before they say they'll even start shipping.
Mine had lag for days.....10.85@127, like an old Supra, lol.
I could not build any boost onnstart line no matter what...I even tried a 100hp dry shot...which is how the car ended up being a "nitrous" car, fwiw.
Post up in the GP and ask questions and @Huron Speed will answer them. I'm telling you the fitment will be better than the eBay stuff based on several build threads on here over the years. You just need to be careful with wrapping brake lines and get the power steering line relo kit and you'll be in good shape. Keeps AC with Derale 16925 pusher fans and you're done.
How the heck did you embed that video in your post? I've been trying for like 2 weeks and can't seem to be able to get it to do it! Every time I try to upload the URL from youtube, it gives an error. might have to ask the admin about this one. ive tried on mobile and PC and cant upload the video itself.
Mine was just a total mix and match, and ddnspider is right...left a sour taste.
The Huron GP thread is about the most confusing post I have ever read, as far as the actual details go...lol. I cant wait as long as they're hinting it will be. If I do the swap back, I want to be done before they say they'll even start shipping.
Mine had lag for days.....10.85@127, like an old Supra, lol.
I could not build any boost onnstart line no matter what...I even tried a 100hp dry shot...which is how the car ended up being a "nitrous" car, fwiw.
How the heck did you embed that video in your post? I've been trying for like 2 weeks and can't seem to be able to get it to do it! Every time I try to upload the URL from youtube, it gives an error. might have to ask the admin about this one. ive tried on mobile and PC and cant upload the video itself.
You don't need to click on insert or anything. You just copy the shared link from YouTube and past it into the post and ls1tech recognizes it and will embed it.
Post up in the GP and ask questions and @Huron Speed will answer them. I'm telling you the fitment will be better than the eBay stuff based on several build threads on here over the years. You just need to be careful with wrapping brake lines and get the power steering line relo kit and you'll be in good shape. Keeps AC with Derale 16925 pusher fans and you're done.
Yeah, their stuff looks nice, but the GP says they're accepting deposits until 2/9/20, then they should be to you in 6-8 weeks after, unless you want to pay an extra $350 for "faster" shipping...With shipping fee, and since their whole setup is ala carte, just their most simple, basic setup, is over 3 grand, which takes this low budget project well over budget. Couple that with the fact that if there isn't another 20 people or so, to commit, the kit costs the exact same as it would if I paid for it today, in full. Basically, meaning I'd wait a few months, just to save the $150 shipping? Nahh....
If price was closer, I still wouldn't wait 3-4 months from now, to get it. That's insane to me. I'm nowhere near that patient, lol.
JoshuaGrooms83's setup's install looked to be fairly easy and drama free, for the most part. I don't mind a few headaches along the way. Heck, I'm a 56 year old heavy equipment mechanic, so I'm fairly used to stuff not being simple, lol.
Originally Posted by JoshuaGrooms83
How the heck did you embed that video in your post? I've been trying for like 2 weeks and can't seem to be able to get it to do it! Every time I try to upload the URL from youtube, it gives an error. might have to ask the admin about this one. ive tried on mobile and PC and cant upload the video itself.
I only meant to paste the "address" of the link, and since it was IG, didn't even think the link would work.
So...it was an accident, to be honest.
Originally Posted by JoshuaGrooms83
Running 10s on a mixed matched setup is actually pretty impressive. With a matched setup, you might break into the 9s.
I just saw, I screwed up on the time posted above...it went 10.85 at 137, not 127. Definitely had the HP to go 9's...just not the rest of it, lol. It still had a stock rear back then too.
Originally Posted by ddnspider
You don't need to click on insert or anything. You just copy the shared link from YouTube and past it into the post and ls1tech recognizes it and will embed it.
Got my wideband back into place. was worried at first as it was sticking straight uo into the BOV but an angled o2 adaptor fixed that. all better. All gauges are good to go! got decent fuel pressure. hovers around 58-60 psi at idle. with boost refeencing 1:1 should see 70 psi at 10lbs od boost. AFR im not too sure where it sits yet. hangs around 12 afr at idle. when boost and gears come into play ill see where the fuel is at. Timing i have no idea yet, thats for a cleaned up tune later. Thought i was gonna need all this extention as at first my exsisting WB harness wouldnt reach, but after i pulled the carpet up under the drivers feet area, found that i had about 2 more feet of harness tucked up there, so i pulled that out from where it was out the bottom, and viola! WB is all hooked up and monitoring AFR!!
Next is getting water methanol hooked back up. I had one in my previous set up with a simple pressure switch set at 6psi with an AEM pump and nozzle set up. worked for a while until the pump self tapping screws somehow worked themselves loose and I lost the pump out under the car one day lol oops..... needless to say, I'll need a new pump, and I'm getting a new pressure switch as well. eventually I'll get a progressive controller but i think that will be saved for when i boost over 14psi on a more built engine.
waiting on some fittings for the pump, the pressure switch which is by snow, and I'm contemplating where to stick the nozzle this time. the AEM nozzle is a bit on the shallow side for thread9ng directly into a charge pipe but in my set up as you can see in some of my pictures, the IAT and MAF are stuck together, and I've read not to stick the nozzle down stream of the IAT and MAF too close or you'll skew the fueling in the PCM, which will require more timing. Would I really would like to do is stick a nozzle or two in the throttle body right before the butterfly. I've seen some direct port methanol injection kits but damn are they expensive, but they look pretty cool!
I'm wondering what nozzles have a reach that far so the bulkhead doesnt interfere with the spray pattern.. gotta do some more research. I would have gone a full snow kit or devils own, but I already had most of the methanl kit here so I only needed some fittings and odds and ends. I'll be using the washer fluid tank as a methanl resivoir again as well gotta clean that out though. and I'm gonna stick a filter on the feed line this time lol
I'm gonna stick a filter on the feed line this time lol
Great idea. A clogged methanol line was 99% the cause of me popping both head gaskets with the old rear mount.
21 psi + 93 octane + 18* of timing = 2 new head gaskets and a lot of back pain swapping them out, lol.
I was looking back again through this thread, and didn't see/read where/how you plumbed in your turbo's oil return?
yeah, I'm thinking this is why my AEM nozzle might appear to be clogged, but I'm not tearing it apart when I can just get a properly sized nozzle. So I got a prescreen for the washer tank, an alkycontrol washer reservoir lid since I broke my last one. I got a bulk head connector with an elbow so I dont have a kink or bend in the hose. I got a snow pressure switch, snow #6 625ml Nozzle and nozzle holder, and a snow threaded bulkhead fitting for the nozzle. so i can actually connect the nozzle to something lol #6 NOZZLE Nozzle holder intake acreen filter adjuatable pressure switch
Ok, got some parts trickling in... damn holiday shipping lol Waiting in the nozzle holder and I'll have nearly everything here to hook it up. still waiting in my relays though.
so wondering where to hook up the nozzle in the elbow. Excuse the AEM nozzle, its just for reference... But my first choice is here but im wonderingnif this is not the optimal spot to install it My second thought is here but i dont like the hose sitting on the shroud like that
Also, where would be a good ignition source to activate the the relay to power the pump and switch? My last setup had a toggle switch which I'm trying to avoid.
few more items in the mail, some good deals on snow boost juice as well 😁 Got most of my injection parts. also have a manual guage for my fuel pressure so i make sure the electrical guage is reporting an actuate fuel pressure. Got a great deal on a case of boost juice For now im trying this 60psi pu.p out, but i do have an AEM 200psi pump coming.
well I did some testing and found out a few things. first off, i am going with the AEM 200pis pump, as it provides a stronger pumo and it has internal bypass stuff is im not mistaken. I tested both to make sure they work and pull fluid and spray it. both worked good. the shurflow can be a stand by incsse the Aem fails and i need a temp backnup. Got the alkycontrol washer cover... but the lip on my washer tank is dryrotted and broke before i could slide it on, so i might need to figure out something else for a tsnk later, but ill see if i can run a kind of cork for now. tested bothe pumps on both the AEM and snow #6 injector i have. i was intending to use the snow injector, but wanted to see if the old AEM injector was still usable. First i tested the shurflo and aem injector.. no leaks dexent flow pattern, operates fine then i tested the shurflow with the snow injector... no leaks was a big bigger droplets but i think that was from the less powerful pump. this is also where i forgot that AEM nozzle assemblies have internal check valves... snow does not. i then tested the AEM pump and AEM nozzle... leaked between the nozzle and holder.. confimed that it has aged and needs some thread sealant. Put the snow #6 injector on... big and misty spray pattern, no leaks. found out which set up im going with lol All trimmed and ready for the adaptor Drilled/cut my hole into my coupler... that stuff is tough to cut let me tell ya. Holding the snow nozzle holder adaptor. After i put some "goop" as Snow performance puts it in the inside mounting plate All set for the rest of the plumbing. off to work on the elctrical side now. gonna make a harness for the pump and switch assembly.
Found this premade 40amp wiring harness made for aftermarket lights. not sure if i need the power switch, but i could cut the switch and run it off an ignition source. still trying to see where ill run it. Should make a good methanol boost switch and pump harness. Best thing it only cost like $12
had to modify the harness. its grounded entirely to its own circuit so if theres a break or malfuntion i can trace it to just that circuit. unfortunately i had to cut out the light switch power button but i buttconnected the pump, relay switch, and boost switch with weather connectors so it was easier to place in the car nice little spot for the methanol pump a little indicator of whats going down lol T in the boost pressure guages regerence line. the relay and fuse powered and grounded. actually was pretty convenient on an exsisting ground lug and the power distribution lug. ran it under the rad support filter all tucked in and ready to pump wires all tucked and hidden. only thing giving it away is the random relay and pressure switch sitting there lol
Looking great! I love the pump location. Was it hard to get to, securing it in the corner there?
Had a fuel question for you too, if you don't mind.
I attached a pic, one of yours, edited with my awesome MSPaint skills, (LOL).
It appears you are using the fuel rail port, to attach the regulator, as the return source? (Circled in YELLOW)
Assuming the BLUE arrows are the return hose/line.
I was thinking about the same type setup for mine. It would definitely have to see "boost" quicker than back where the "T" is.
Right now my regulator, which appears to be the same exact one you have, is back where the "T" is.
Mine actually replaces the "T".
I thought about just re-installing a "T" back there, and just extending my return line from that spot (where it's connected to regulator now), up to the new regulator location.
Any worries about the return being so close to the feed?
I had also thought about basically moving the "T", up to under the hood, as an option. That requires some more plumbing modifications though, as far as the feed, since I have my flex fuel sensor right at the feed connection of the rails.
Although I dont see an attached picture, I get what you are saying LOL
Although you could get away with the FPR all the way in the back, for a referenced line, you'd want it much closer to a vac/boost source, such as where I have it. it doesnt have to be right on the rail such as mine, but closer to the rails is a much accurate reading at what's going on right at the rails verses nearly the entire fuel system. It's also easier to maintain and adjust as adjustable fuel pressure regulators will need to be checked periodically and it's easier to adjust it standing over your engine compartment instead of trying to get at it under your car.
I've read from an OEM tuner that as long as you keep the vacuum line reasonably sized you can go 30ft before you see any impact from the length of the hose. Removing the 2 ft line off the fuel block under the car 2as the simplest way I saw to add my adjustable FPR. And once it's set you shouldn't be messing with it.
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