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lol ive been thinking about it for some time, what i figure ill do is when im ready to stuff a turbo built ls engine in it, thats when ill do the radiator work.
well now for the hard work 😁
got myself a new tool to finish the car myself. Got HP Tuner to see what needs to be adjusted for this tune. pulled my current tune off the car and slowly digesting whats in it.
Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; Jun 24, 2020 at 04:13 PM.
did some wiring today. properly wired in a fan harness so the aftermarket fans have a dedicated power source. used stock fan relays 1 and 2 for PCM trigger source and then grounded and power supplied by the positive terminal block. fans kicked on somewhere around 180ish, and kepted Temps at about this level on one fan. 3 relay fan harness routing and splicing new harness all buttoned up and test ran temps seem to be holding. ill have to run it hard to see if the second fan is running properly but so far so good. if these aftermarket fans dont do the job, i still have stock ones i can retrofit as pushers.
ALRIGHTY THEN!!!
so I've been datalogging and tuning the dirty Bird and its coming along. initially had a massive rich area in the 140+ kpa region, to the tune of 9.0 at one point. after some adjustments and refinement, I've got most of the boost regions in the 11.5-7 area. I need to still refine it a tad and then mess with the spark tables a bit. I still need to tune the trans as well bit the drivibility has been a 180 change! now I only experience the poping back fire at 160+kpa as the ve area here is a tad rich im assuming but im not sure if I want to lean that out yet.
After some leaning out, I actual have been hitting 12psi with the NXS manual controller and even accidently hit 14psi with the turbosmart controller.
ve table has come a long way Some boosted regions populating spark table so far. ive only added 2 degrees so far. no knock some gears to see where stuff is coming in at had to lean this area out significantly. after several sessions, im pretty sure ive leaned this area out by about 12%, now its pretty consistant of 11.5afr some trans tuning. use the autotrans guide to adjust these tables. still alittle loose on the 2nd to 3rd shift and its reving to high hell and takes some pedaling to bring it down. not sure what to do for that. tried out the turbosmart manual booat controller but the lowest setting produces 14psi of boost!! so input the NSX manual controller back in so that i can at least keep it at 12psi. glad the car is cable of 14psi, just not yet lol well, since im pushing the 255 to its upper limit with 12psi on an already was already a 301rwhp na to begin with, at 12psi im estimatedly have roughly 546hp, and with 14psi it could be 587hp or even more which is about the limits of the walbro 255 without a boost a pump. until im ready for a secondary pump this will hold me for some time. some stuff used to stick the 450 out with the not so old and in with the newer all wired up and ready to go. unfortualy the racetronic adaptor wasnt for my bulk head terminal so i had to splice it myself.
Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; Sep 4, 2020 at 01:12 PM.
2 conditions must be met for a WOT upshift to occur, MPH target and RPM target. I like to set the MPH target well below when it actually needs to shift so the ECU is just sitting there waiting on RPM target to hit. Usually you set the RPM target a hundred or 2 rpms before you actually want it to shift and adjust as needed. Also adding torque management at the shift will help.
so far I have
6000 1>2
5800 2>3
5800 3>4
I'm thinking I might need to lower the 2>3 another 100rpm as ive been seeing 6200rpm on the datalogs
the 3800 stall im assuming is now stalling more like a 4000 due to the added turbo torque lol
not yet, I am still working on that. I only did the generic suggestions in the guide so far. that alone has made the shifting much better. im not sure still yet where it wants to shift exactly. im still gotta learn the mph calculation. my hptuner doesn't have the tire height input either. might he a 98 pcm thing.
some trans tuning. use the autotrans guide to adjust these tables. still alittle loose on the 2nd to 3rd shift and its reving to high hell and takes some pedaling to bring it down. not sure what to do for that.
I noticed problem in your lockup settings...
Your 4th gear unlock speeds are higher than your lockup speeds at 50% and higher. That means it cannot lock.
I used the "Bluecat" tool to get my shifting more in line. I have a Jake's 4L80, but just giving you a comparison.
I had to add a good bit of "Lead Time" for my WOT shifts to happen when I wanted them to, especially at higher (15-16#) boost levels. For mine to shift at 6000ish, it has to command a shift at 5300. On lower boost, it shifts much closer to the ACTUAL (and artificially low) commanded RPM and MPH.
I attached my PT and WOT shift settings, as well as my TCC settings for comparison....again, I have a 4L80E, but shift points are shift points, for the most part.
I also attached screenshots from a high 9 second pass, and a low 11 second pass, (SAME DAY) so you can see how much difference there is between COMMANDED and ACTUAL shift points, at 2 different boost levels
BETWEEN THE 2 BOOST LEVELS...
You see a 5 MPH difference on the 1 > 2 shift, and an 8 MPH difference on the 2 > 3 shift....
BETWEEN THE "TUNE" COMMANDED, and the ACTUAL SHIFT POINT (@ 15# OF BOOST)...
You can see a 10 MPH difference on both the 1 > 2 shift, and the 2 > 3 shift....
With the old nitrous setup, my car ran it's best at a 6200 RPM 1>2 shift, and a 6300 RPM 2>3 shift, which is why I have it set, with the amount of "LEAD TIME" needed, to make that happen.
I let the lower boost control shifts so that they fall "where they fall", as I am much more concerned about them at the higher boost, since the engine is revving a decent amount faster, and making 100 or more HP at that point as well. When I first was dialing in the new turbo setup, it would shift at commanded, on the lower boost, but hit the rev limiter and/or NOT SHIFT at 10# or higher....
You'll also (in this tune) see I have my TRIPLE DISC converter locking at 132 MPH...It is currently at 134, as I have been experimenting with that, and only doing so because the old 6 liter is screaming higher than I like it to, at the end of the track, if the boost is turned up. See last pic....6700+ RPM @ 142 MPH... <<<---That was BEFORE I started locking the converter.
Bluecat inspired 4L80E trans settings
1 > 2 COMMANDED shift point at 14# boost
2 > 3 COMMANDED shift point at 15# boost
1 > 2 COMMANDED shift point at 6# boost
2 > 3 COMMANDED shift point at just shy of 7# boost
Holy crap! Now that you mention it, ive noticed that my car isnt locking up now that i started messing with the trans tune. Before i could hear it lockup in 4th cruising because it would almost sound like i went into another gear and it would kinda chug along. Not in a bad way but around 45ish it would do this. Now it doesnt but like you said it must not be locking up right.
ill have to go back in the to mess with the commanded shifting a bit. Possibly lower it down to 5400 or less like you did.
Always something lol ask the dyno shop when I can come in some time,, and went to start the car and it ran for a a minute or so, and then cut off. havnt fully diagnosed it but im suspecting the fuel pump or fuse is out. pumps ot priming now of course lol no codes pull up so that good and it ran just fine before it just shut off. all I was doing was checking in a new plug wire I replaced that melted on the turbo header that I thought wasn't on there. thats fixed at least with a new wire and heat shield now.
oh well.... I ordered racetronics dual fuel pump kit since I wanted to run dual pumps anyway, and also went ahead and finally talked myself into a msd 2 step. the old glowshift fuel pressure guage needs an replacment so I ordered an innovate fuel pressure guage to replace that. AND!! since I've got it, gonna toss in the 80lbs injectors in and adjust the tune accordingly before I take it in. that way I know fuel is completely covered. fuel system will be able to support roughly 800hp, and at this point the turbo and the ls1 are the only thing holding it back now lol
this thing keeps acting up and ill throw in the damn summit turbo cam in just for spite lol
Said screw it and ordered a VSR 7875 1.25ar T4... i got plans for later 😁 had good deals for black Friday
Nice. I have the .96 cover version, and have been 9.76@142 on the transbrake, 10.00@147 footbraking. It's pretty much done, for me, at that point, but is also a blast to drive on the street.
I had to scoop one up, especially after watching Richard Holdeners test between the s475 and VSR 7875. the S475 spools sooner but drops off on top, while the 7875 gives up a little on the bottom, but flows way better up top. im not even sure he just test the cast wheel only or if did billet for both.
well since i can't leave stuff alone, of course I ran into an issue... damn fuel pump still won't come on. I jumped the fuel relay in the engine compartment and it supplies power to the racetronic relay in the back, so its got power going back, and the pumps I know are good. I even swapped the 525 hellcst walbro just to make sure, and it fireup for a sec, and then shut off and then the car died again 😡🤬. I gotta check the wiring between the racetronic relay and the pump to make sure ei don't behave a short or open somewhere. I don't get it. so weird. no codes other than the MAF, and I even plugged it back in just to clean the codes. so weird. still lookong stuff up. what was really weird was when I swapped the pump out, the starter wouldn't crank at first. I tried swapping the starter relays around and that fixed that strangely, and then the car started for a few seconds, and was about to build pressure, and then it cut off again 🤬🤬 damn it!! see this is what happens when you try to schedule a dyno session lol
this keeps this up and im gonna start yanking out heads and cams lol im itching to install the cam and if I do that, I might as well upgrade everything while I'm at it lol this stupid pump better start working lol
I ordered a relay to test it out. I have continuity from the pump, and i know they both work. So fuel pumps arnt burnt out. Ran some system checks with hptuners and i can hear the stock fuel pump relay activate, and ive jumped the connections and didnt hear the rear relay activate. So im assuming after 7 years, maybe jumping to the 450 walbro tired out the old racetronic relay inthe 98 hotwire harness? I checked grounds, fuses, and such, those all checked out. Like said before this is an intermitant issue that just started. Pumps ran for a few minutes and either it shut off, or the next time i tried to fire up the car, it did prime. I even went under the car and sanded the connections to the ground point just to make sure. It was a little corroded, but ive seen worse. Checked over the pind and made sure none wiggled or corroded from the previous install. They seem in good shape. Nothing pinched or burnt.
I had already ordered the kit anyway, been wanting to twin pump for awhile anyway. Still gonna keep it there for later when i want to run a triple pump setup on stand by when i decide to get serious with e85. Still wanna know test with a new relay just to make sure though.
Innovate Fuel pressure guage. probably alittle bettwr than my hard to read and dying glowshift now MSD 2 step... still truing to decide where i wanna activate it on the auto trans Been wanting to stup up to a dual pump for awhile. guess its time Racetronics in for win once more! Shout out to WS6STORE for the shipping as well! definetly changed the plugs from the last hotwire so, the old one will be taken off oike for now. might have it on standby when im ready for a third pump. the connector everyones talking about on the hat lol so thisbis fun! a tablet mount with locking joints and a key lock! should make tuning with a surface go2 a littlw easier The new hotness! VSR billet gen 2.5 7875 AR 1.25 T4 turbo. the standand beer and turbo comparison lol
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