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I know it's not a big ol 88mm turbo but this tablet mount is pretty slick still!!! litterally just one nut and its mounted! came with all kinds of mounting adaptors and even some if you had to screw it into the floor board. some nice locking angles and range of motion stupid simple install.
I guess you can say it's starting to get serious 😁
Racetronic dual 340 fuel pump kit installed! man was this one way easier, other than modifying the hat. trap door mod makes this a breeze too lol All laid out intermediate harneess WIRES!! lol them some pretty pumps thats for sure pretty pumps for this ugly hat lol most of the work in this is modifying the hat to power these pumps all connected some preliminary fittinf all hooked up, up top wired in for now... i gotta clean this up after i get the new innovate fuel pressure gauge and Eboost2 wired in.. the old booat gauge wiring and fuel pump wiring will be gone, and im gonna trybto clean up the fan relay harnnes and methanol injection harness as well. for now its running full time at 58psi. not too shabby. eventually ill hook up 8an feed and 6an return. where the intermeduate harness sneaks by all tucked and zipstipped, follows the fuel and brake lines.
Well its serious now lol
Eboost2 wired and plumbed, new innovate fuel pressure gauge, and MSD 2 step 90% installed. still need to add a momentary switch to activate it.
Start presetting the eboost2. boost cut off set to about 15psi, and have the SP1 set to about 20, which is close to 10ish psi from reading around. will have to make adjustments once I get the wheels on the ground. man.. who thought rewiring gauges required yanking half the dash apart empty boxes is always nice lol out with the old. actually lost a few extra wires eboost2 all the new splices with shrink wrap connectors solenoid sorta in place wires!! lol starting to come together We got power!!! still had to hog iut the gauge pod. was originaly made for 52mm gauges. dontt know what it is with these 60mm lol Better picture with the lights finally pulled the wires through the a pillar and made the hole bigger. looks pretty good actually. was worried it would be too big on top but it works pretty good cleaning up the wiring and hoses still. this is just to get it up and running still figuring out mounting still on the fence of putting the hobbs switch in the dual pump harness. right now both pumps are on full time. old glowshift gauges and wiring gone 2 STEP!! stupid easy to install on the engine side for now the box is hiding here.
Looking good. I kinda wish I had went for the EBoost2 rather than the EBoost Street. I had to put mine down in the small cubby hole right there in front of the shifter, so it's a PITA to make any changes....
What steering wheel and steering wheel adapter are you running?
I'd like to put an aftermarket one on mine, with 2 buttons...one for transbrake and one for scramble.
thats what kept me from getting the eboost street. I kinda like that it was cheaper, but mounting was a bit of a dilemma and I didn't want it where I couldn't reach it for when im tuning. it also has a lot more features that I could grow with. for now im just gonna have it run 2 boost pressure settings. one for 12psi everyday, and 14-15psi for fun days 😁
The steering wheel is an NRG wheel and the decal i found on ebay.
I cant wait to get the 2step fully wired up and do a demo video 😁 still trying to see if 12v or ground is a better option for it
thats what kept me from getting the eboost street. I kinda like that it was cheaper, but mounting was a bit of a dilemma and I didn't want it where I couldn't reach it for when im tuning. it also has a lot more features that I could grow with. for now im just gonna have it run 2 boost pressure settings. one for 12psi everyday, and 14-15psi for fun days 😁
The steering wheel is an NRG wheel and the decal i found on ebay.
I cant wait to get the 2step fully wired up and do a demo video 😁 still trying to see if 12v or ground is a better option for it
On the brightside of the poorly placed EBC, it keeps me from randomly playing around with it, lol.
Since I bracket race, I use BG1 on wastegate, or as low as it will go to try and stay 11.50 or slower. Used to be 0%, but now that I have dual wastegates that actually control boost, that will need to be "tuned". I can maintain 3# of boost, where before it steadily creeped as high as 13. I only change the "switch logic" from external to internal, or vice versa, when I am at the track. For external, I use the BG2 boost setting (16-18# usually), as my "scramble" boost, using a handheld button. On the street, I simply use the internal switch, and if need be, just push the main button once and it's on BG2...I'm sure your EBC has more functions, and it would be nice to have it right there, but too late for me, lol.
I used to use my MSD by way of a ground, to cut down on at least 1 12v wire, but have since wired it in with my transbrake, so they both work at same time, all the time. The MSD 2 step works great either way, so whichever way is easier, is how I'd do it.
Here's what my MSD 2 step sounds like...3000 rpm, 4-5# of boost, open cutout...
p.s. the rowdy cammed, noisy car is the old Dart race car that got whooped. His buddy's were eyeballing my 12 second "looking" car, and were heard saying they wished he could have ran a faster car to make their video better. Then...boost happened...lol.
(I edited/trimmed it down to less than a minute, but if it hasn't went through, just FF to almost 1 minute in.)
Nice run, that wiper at the end was hilarious though lol
Yeah that also why I love turbos so much.. it gives the other guy that little ego boost before you spool up and reel him back in 😆
Yeah i think im just gonna ground the micro switch by the shifter. i don't like the idea of wiring it to the brake switch on a street car. I have an ashtray switch board coming to kinda hid it into place. its gonna have a 2step, linelock, and cutout switchs but put it in a little less freaked place so I don't play with it all the time lol
I got some homework with the eboost2 and the manual isn't horrible, but 30+ pages is a lot, especially for some of the more fancy applications like programmed boost spikes by gear and all kinds of other weird complicated things that I won't ever need for a streetstrip car.
Nice run, that wiper at the end was hilarious though lol
Yeah that also why I love turbos so much.. it gives the other guy that little ego boost before you spool up and reel him back in 😆
Yeah i think im just gonna ground the micro switch by the shifter. i don't like the idea of wiring it to the brake switch on a street car. I have an ashtray switch board coming to kinda hid it into place. its gonna have a 2step, linelock, and cutout switchs but put it in a little less freaked place so I don't play with it all the time lol
I got some homework with the eboost2 and the manual isn't horrible, but 30+ pages is a lot, especially for some of the more fancy applications like programmed boost spikes by gear and all kinds of other weird complicated things that I won't ever need for a streetstrip car.
Wiper arms are evidently only tested to 140mph...lol.
Yeah, the boost by gear, and boost by rpm, and all that, is more than I'd need for what I do...Heck, if I want boost, I normally want "ALL THE BOOST", haha...thats's what my little button is for.
Man I LOVE LOVE LOVE the 2 step lol I wired in the tempoary momentary switch today using the ground from the cigarette lighter outlet. eventually i have a switch plate that goes in the ashtray spot for later.
Originally Posted by Shownomercy
Side note, for the A4 guys what are you picking for 2 step settings?
I got mine set to 3300 right now,, and i might dial that down a smidge. my stall is 3800, but the tires start spinning by about 3200, so yeah lol i have 10psi when im sitting on the 2 step and the brakes so far lol
Originally Posted by rel3rd
Anymore than 3000 and my turd blows the tires off. Going to try some Hoosier Bracket Drag Radials next season
lol yep, just experienced that today testing out the 2 step and eboost2.
Originally Posted by Shownomercy
Hows it compare to the rated stall of your converter?
I think if I got a linelock, it would be a little different but for now, footballing is fine lol got too much tq from a stand still anyway with the 10bolt still taking abuse from lol Temp momentary switch until the plate gets here two step hiding out
I attached my PT and WOT shift settings, as well as my TCC settings for comparison....again, I have a 4L80E, but shift points are shift points, for the most part.
I also attached screenshots from a high 9 second pass, and a low 11 second pass, (SAME DAY) so you can see how much difference there is between COMMANDED and ACTUAL shift points, at 2 different boost levels
BETWEEN THE 2 BOOST LEVELS...
You see a 5 MPH difference on the 1 > 2 shift, and an 8 MPH difference on the 2 > 3 shift....
BETWEEN THE "TUNE" COMMANDED, and the ACTUAL SHIFT POINT (@ 15# OF BOOST)...
You can see a 10 MPH difference on both the 1 > 2 shift, and the 2 > 3 shift....
With the old nitrous setup, my car ran it's best at a 6200 RPM 1>2 shift, and a 6300 RPM 2>3 shift, which is why I have it set, with the amount of "LEAD TIME" needed, to make that happen.
I let the lower boost control shifts so that they fall "where they fall", as I am much more concerned about them at the higher boost, since the engine is revving a decent amount faster, and making 100 or more HP at that point as well. When I first was dialing in the new turbo setup, it would shift at commanded, on the lower boost, but hit the rev limiter and/or NOT SHIFT at 10# or higher....
You'll also (in this tune) see I have my TRIPLE DISC converter locking at 132 MPH...It is currently at 134, as I have been experimenting with that, and only doing so because the old 6 liter is screaming higher than I like it to, at the end of the track, if the boost is turned up. See last pic....6700+ RPM @ 142 MPH... <<<---That was BEFORE I started locking the converter.
Bluecat inspired 4L80E trans settings
I see what I did wrong, looking at yours. 2nd was looking for 256 lol I'm not sure why I had that pasted in there like that. for a completely different baseline, im testing our your data exactly as you have I just to see how it shifts and cruises. im trying out dropping the shifting to 5400 and see if that helps keep me from having around 6200rpm for so long before the gear decides to show up lol but I suspect it was my commande speed that was messing that up from my first tune. I was wondering why I was hanging out at 4000rpm cruising like I had 4.10 gears lol makes sense now lol oops 😬
Should be a lot more conforming now.
Just pulled some data with and leaned out the ve yet again since the twin pumps are in there.. i also gotta check and see if im spraying meth before 6psi, cause I think im still running too rich and I don't want to find out I leaned it out too much cause its been sitting on too much meth lol at least ill be almost ready for e85 at this point 😅
So far making 12psi on eboot2 and comes on quick at 2800 rpm according to the log. builds 10psi on 2 step around 3300 rpm and beginning to spin tires. might dial the 2 step down a smidge to keep from spinning but we will see
Some data logging making some boost today 😁 12psi on there with too much fuel lol VE table coming along Trying out a whole new trans tune schdule setup my eboost like this except i have port 3 to the manidold for reference so its seeing vacuum. seems to be working fine. hiding the 2 step switch
finally found a good link for bluecat trans tuner, man thats a helpful little program! its pretty close to what i put together from the one up top so im gonna do a test run with that one first an then seen if the tuner cat does anything different that might be more my speed.
here the current trans tune next to bluecat
Didn't know you were looking for the Bluecat program...I have it saved on my laptop, lol.
If lower RPM, (normal cruise) shift settings are to your liking, but the WOT is still not allowing a shift, you'll need to play with the "SHIFT LEAD TIME" setting. I tried to explain how it works in my quoted reply. Basically, adjusting lead time moves the scale downward or upward to compensate for the delay that will be in your ACTUAL shift MPH/RPM.
To set my Shift Lead Time, I concentrated on my WOT shifts being dead on only at higher boost levels, and let the 4-5psi or whatever, lower boost level shifting happen when it happens. It works great and shifts when I want it to, at 14psi, or even (by accident) at 22+ psi, lol. If you set (dial in) lead time (and test it) at say, 4psi of boost, and it shifts at your chosen shift RPM, then next day, you turn boost up to 15psi, GUARANTEED it will blow right past the shift point, hitting the limiter, or just not shifting...
My car, when nitroused, did not need any lead time with even a 200 shot, so my first few WOT turbo test drives, and transmission set as it had been, kept blowing right past the shift point, hitting the limiter...I thought I broke the trans, lol.
BUT...I would NOT even be going WOT in your case, or attempting to tune transmission, until you get the fueling and other tuning done, or at least much closer, to your liking/satisfaction. I know I always catch myself trying to do too many changes at one time also, and it almost always bites me in the ***, lol.
I am 99.9% sure these are my current transmission settings, aside from 3rd gear lockup MPH.
Looking at the logs from my last track day, with severe boost creep...(wastegate not really working at all) 1 > 2 ACTUAL shift was @ 45 mph, 5936 rpm, 14.1# boost (actually went from 10 to 14 between when shift was commanded, and when it happened) 2 > 3 ACTUAL shift was @ 84mph, 6440 rpm, 22+ # of boost
Didn't know you were looking for the Bluecat program...I have it saved on my laptop, lol.
If lower RPM, (normal cruise) shift settings are to your liking, but the WOT is still not allowing a shift, you'll need to play with the "SHIFT LEAD TIME" setting. I tried to explain how it works in my quoted reply. Basically, adjusting lead time moves the scale downward or upward to compensate for the delay that will be in your ACTUAL shift MPH/RPM.
To set my Shift Lead Time, I concentrated on my WOT shifts being dead on only at higher boost levels, and let the 4-5psi or whatever, lower boost level shifting happen when it happens. It works great and shifts when I want it to, at 14psi, or even (by accident) at 22+ psi, lol. If you set (dial in) lead time (and test it) at say, 4psi of boost, and it shifts at your chosen shift RPM, then next day, you turn boost up to 15psi, GUARANTEED it will blow right past the shift point, hitting the limiter, or just not shifting...
My car, when nitroused, did not need any lead time with even a 200 shot, so my first few WOT turbo test drives, and transmission set as it had been, kept blowing right past the shift point, hitting the limiter...I thought I broke the trans, lol.
BUT...I would NOT even be going WOT in your case, or attempting to tune transmission, until you get the fueling and other tuning done, or at least much closer, to your liking/satisfaction. I know I always catch myself trying to do too many changes at one time also, and it almost always bites me in the ***, lol.
I am 99.9% sure these are my current transmission settings, aside from 3rd gear lockup MPH.
Looking at the logs from my last track day, with severe boost creep...(wastegate not really working at all) 1 > 2 ACTUAL shift was @ 45 mph, 5936 rpm, 14.1# boost (actually went from 10 to 14 between when shift was commanded, and when it happened) 2 > 3 ACTUAL shift was @ 84mph, 6440 rpm, 22+ # of boost
Yeah i was trying to find it and when i did fint it, they were a pain to download for some reason. finally found a good link. Updated my surface go2 to finally extract it and run it. after looking at mine and yours there a few key differences. my gears and stall are definitely a tad different. but after uploading your data and testing it SOOO much better lol gotta fine-tune it and tailor it to my own setup, but il use the data from BlueCat to run it. Thanks for the heads up on the lead time. definitely need to adjust that. i also need to set up a cruise and performance to run differently. i had them the same just for ease to tuning but now im gonna play with cruising first. until i do anymore wot and get my lock up dialed in better. still got a little hanging around 2nd or 3rd still unless i back off the throttle.
Whats in the car now
Oh ok cool, after I said that I just went ahead and copied all the datta over to all the tables lol figure il fine tune the cruise table for when I actually am cruising longer than 20 minutes or so.
like I said, when I uploaded your data from your inital post, it was night and day difference! I just wasn't getting lock up and it was reving and hunting for gears unless I gave it like 20% throttle.
I still am using your 5400, 5800, and 5900 rpm limits to see if that triggers the shifting sooner than 6400 rpm lol if with the new data specific to my setup starts shifting too early then I know I'm on the right path.
I really appreciate the Bluecat guidance, that makes a world of difference trying to figure out certain aspects of the trans shifting.
Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; 12-23-2020 at 05:12 PM.
12-03-2020, 02:14 PM
