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this is true, as I've run a rear mount and referenced my intake all the way to the rear of the car, and it worked fine, however less is more. Keep it simple, and it will last longer.
All wired up and ready to go. tested the switch and adjusted to 6-7psi when boost comes on. Used my small compressor and regulated it down to about 6psi. then I used my AEM nozzle to make sure the system operates properly without actually running the car. And back on the ground. idled it for a sec to adjust the fuel pressure to roughly 58psi. i might need to gwt a new gauge as one of the digitsl lines went imout on me. Took it for a test drive down the road and got it up to 60 mph and put together a few gears. Turbo spools nice and loud!! 😁 Im enjoying the new turbo note under the car. might not even put the SLP catback on now lol Thst might change when i do head and cams later. didnt want to chace going lean so i didnt get into boost yet. had to visualize the switch, soni have redundant grounds now lol this is how i hooked up the boost pressure switch used the igniton/PCM slot as a trigger keyed source, but other than that, this is how i ran the meth harness
Oh and the fans kick on as well!! after I got back home for a quick test drive, I heard the fans on, so that's working good. still smoking the pipes and exhaust wraps so that's one reason for only a short test drive. I also wanted to avoid being pulled over, as I havnt registered the car yet since it's been in the garage for the past year LOL now to get this pig tuned.
this is true, as I've run a rear mount and referenced my intake all the way to the rear of the car, and it worked fine, however less is more. Keep it simple, and it will last longer.
No argument here. Mine is actually back there from when I had the rear mount. I guess this will be a "because I was bored" mod for a later date, lol.
While I know it worked fine for me before, I just think it will be a bit faster responding, with regulator up near the rails.
I would like to, and I have a neighbor that has HPTuner, but im curious how much HP this thiing puts out in its current form and a professional tune might help keep pistons inside the block longer LOL
NA it was making 301hp to the wheels, and with the rearmount im guessing it was over 500hp as it ate my trans and ballooned the 3200 stall i had before i had the trans built lol in its current form it potentially could see 600, but id run out of pump before that on single racetronic. I might still swap out the 255 and put the 450 in there before then. A tune will show me if im running out of pump, and make sure my 60lbs are doing their job.
I'm FAR from a "tuner" myself, even though I have had my HPTuners setup since 2008, lol.
Back then, my "professional" tuner was a HACK and tuned WOT fueling by way of PE Raping, as they call it. Basically, it was $400 for a dyno "tune", which involved getting the car to idle, and setting WOT fueling by "butchering/raping" the Power Enrichment settings, which is cave man style. Frost, who I believe is reasonably close to you, helped me tune fueling, and shift points, correctly, via email of all things, and was a GREAT help....
He also helped me (again, via email) in getting my friend's 2003 Z06 idling & running right....something the same local "pro" could not do, in person, in multiple tries...I simply took datalogs, emailed them to him, and he made tune changes and emailed the new tune back to me, after explaining what he did, and why. Took, maybe 7, reflashes between the both of them, to get desired results. He can get you close without even physically touching the car.
Fortunately, my cars already running and driving. it just needs to be fine tuned. I need the idle brought down to a reasonable level under 1500rpm lol and then the fuel enrichment needs to be leaned out as it runs pig rich when in boost. I saw 9.9 pegged on my WB and I wasnt even in boost when I went 3/4 throttle from a stand still. it also needs to be tuned for the change in fuel return, as now I have a true return system and its boost referenced now, not to mention methanol injection. I dont know what my last tuner did but I'd image he did what you mentioned hacking the rest of the tune.
I'm actually considering Frost tune it again. this time for boost and in person. when I was in Germany I sent him a PCM that wasnt even from my car, had him do an NA tune for LTH, 3200 stall, and some other little bits, and it ran great when I got it in the mail.
Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; 01-02-2020 at 05:32 PM.
Was reading around and started to notice a lot of people recommend putting after market fand on a separate harness, and I havnt been able to be sure if the fans are running at full steam either, so i got a fan hanress to take the fans off of the stock harness. Still trying to figure out where to trigger it from. some peope say the pcm ground and others just throw a switch in the mix. Id rather have the computer controll it aince its been doing the job for 20 years anyway lol Trying out this little guy, but i do have a Racetronic catch can coming to see if i can get one with some mouting hardware.
So I went and also ordered some Racetronics 80lb Injectors from ws6store. Looks like I'll be installing that 450 walbro soon after all LOL
I installed 2 aftermarket 12", (10 amp draw) 2000cfm pusher fans on mine, and simply used spade terminals to plug right into the factory harness. The fans work great, so far, and no issues with warm wires, popped fuses, overloading the circuit or anything like that. Controlled by the ECM as they've always been.
I only have breathers from each valve cover, as it's been for 2 years now. I do have the same catch can as pictured, on my Silverado, which has always had a problem sucking oil into the top of the intake, from the driver side valve cover. It works GREAT, and was about $100 cheaper than the so-called good ones. ZERO oil past the catch can.
I've already swapped out the On3 70mm turbo, for a VS Racing 78/75. Has slightly less "instant" response, yet noticeable mid/top end power at same boost...on my 6.0
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I've already swapped out the On3 70mm turbo, for a VS Racing 78/75. Has slightly less "instant" response, yet noticeable mid/top end power at same boost...on my 6.0
I just went from a 7665 to a 7875 and noticed the same, its pulling all the way to north of 7k now.
I suppose I'll have the fan harness on standby and see if it does overload the relays. I dont have spale fans so I guess we will see lol
Neither do I. I have "American Volts", LOL...but they have good reviews, so I went for it.
I'm on a budget.
In fact I only paid $69.95 in December for these, so there's been a price increase.
I wonder how that could be "measured"?
Mine control temp great so far, but it isnt (technically) hot outside yet either.
I saw a write-up somewhere about converting factory fans to pushers, but never could find it to save and try.
The motor size is a good indication. Compare with a stock motor or a Female 16925 and it's easy to see. Not saying smaller won't work, the cheap stuff just don't flow the claimed cfms. I've seen people run stockers as pushers too. I hacked the housing on my old car to get them to fit because the stock pullers are awesome.
If i run into a cooling issue ill try converting the stock fans to pusher fans, and if that doesn't work, then a dedicated derale fan set then will be in my future, but by then, ill probably fully stand up a griffin radiator in the stock rads place to really give the turbo some space as well as add some air flow.
as for the catch can, im kinda playing around with different ones for size and location mounting. The racetronic can is more of an over flow can than a oil catch can, as both fittings are on the bottom so im not sure how that is suppose to keep oil out, and its a bit big.
Im gonna try and take it to get tuned next week Friday or Saturday so i can see how it does.
80lbs injectors came in the mail yesterday, so i need to hurry up and install the walbro 450 and then get to the shop and install the 80lbs injectors.