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Remote (Trans cooler/fan) for (water/air intercooler)

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Old 03-30-2017, 08:32 PM
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Default Remote (Trans cooler/fan) for (water/air intercooler)

Hey guys , I wanted to see what you guys though of this idea , utilizing a remote transmission cooler with a fan as a radiator for a water to air system, the radiator would be place under the car. This is the one I'm thinking about using if this idea might work.

Old 03-30-2017, 09:46 PM
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I'm not going to claim being an expert, but there is probably a reason why most of the A/W intercoolers and remote tank systems run 1" water lines. You want to move alot of water, and what you posted with the very small lines, will not flow the GPM you will need.

My $.02
Old 03-30-2017, 10:05 PM
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I though the same thing but when I bought my radiator from frozen boost, it actually has a 1/2 npt inlet and outlet for the water. Very similar size to an 8an . And on my actual heat exchanger they have two models one with a 1/2" inlet outlet and a 3/4" inlet outlet . So I'm guessing if I want to use a 1" line I would have to reduce it anyways. That's why I though this might work. Again this is just me thinking that's why I want peoples opinions. Another benefit I though was if I have this radiator mounted towards the middle of the car I can easily ave 10-12 feet of 1" line that actually contains water and increasing the amount of water circulating which would be close to 1/2 gallon just in the lines.

What your talking about is having a remote (Tank) I'm talking about using a radiator . Their is two methods for the water air system . Tank , radiator or even both from what I have seen .
Old 03-31-2017, 11:48 AM
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Give it a whirl, and come back with results. It's not too expensive of a test.
Old 03-31-2017, 12:15 PM
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Lol I figured someone in this community tried it .. can't be experimenting much on my first turbo build
Old 03-31-2017, 12:27 PM
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i used a banshee radiator with 3/4" id hoses and it couldnt really keep up on long drives. my tank was about 3 gallons and if i was in the throttle a lot IATs would slowly go up and wouldnt ever recover back to ambient.
my new truck has a full size radiator with no external tank and 1" lines and so far its doing a lot better job of keeping iats at ambient.

Originally Posted by Ogoz23
So I'm guessing if I want to use a 1" line I would have to reduce it anyways.
my understanding is its pretty common practice to cut off the 1/2 or 3/4 inch fittings and have 1" ones welded on. thats what i did with my current setup.
Old 03-31-2017, 12:45 PM
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Do they cut the fittings on the heat exchanger as well and weld an 1 inch fitting ?
Old 03-31-2017, 01:03 PM
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It will work, it just won’t work as well. You want something more like a radiator. They make small radiators/heat exchangers pretty cheaply all over ebay. Trying to make something not meant for the job work is more of a pain than it’s worth IMO.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Al...1T7Ff2&vxp=mtr

OR the motor cycle radiator as mentioned. You can get those with the fan and all mounted a swell. (most likely a more powerful fan)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-RAD...lXAJD2&vxp=mtr
Old 03-31-2017, 01:48 PM
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yes, you need to replace all the fittings in the whole system in order to get the most flow.
Old 03-31-2017, 01:52 PM
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I can't find 1" weld on hose barb fittings .. what fittings are you guys welding on ?
Old 03-31-2017, 02:18 PM
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i bought some aluminum tube that was 1" od and the thinnest wall i could find
Old 03-31-2017, 02:28 PM
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So just a regular tube with no barb so the hose doesn't slip out ? Just the pressure of the clamp holds it in place ?
Old 03-31-2017, 02:35 PM
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on mine, yes. the hose fits without much play and i put enough for about an inch of hose to slip on, add a hose clamp and its been fine. the whole system doesnt see much pressure.
Old 03-31-2017, 02:53 PM
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Ok that gives me a good idea , my radiator is an inch thick! So let's see if I can fit an inch line




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