What is the secret to high horse power and 93 octane no meth? It seams like with e85 you boost it till it breaks. I was thinking bigger cubes and lower compression ratio. Any thoughts

 

what are you thinking is high HP? 700?

 

Big ******* turbo. Seriously. Get a quick spooling one and your engine will be more susceptible to damage.

Get a turbo thatll see target boost after peak torque.

 

why izzat? backpressure?

 

1000 rwhp. Is probably impossible. But 750 800 would be great on just 93 no meth.

 

Cool iat, dished piston, and cc massaged to minimize detonation if you want to push it. Add little water inj if you want to cool chamber temps to push it further.

 

Piece of ****, just build and tune it right.

There is no secret

Why would you think it impossible ?

 

no timing at peak torque.

 

im making 740 to the tire through a t56 and a 9 inch on 93. Cant speak for longevity as ive only been running this for about 1k miles and generally run around on low boost which is 550hp.

 

Correct timing always. Never no timing.

 

context. learn it.

 

I know it....let's not be retarded...timing.

 

yes, lets not. thank you for reconsidering.

 

I've done several setups and everything I run is 93 only. Been everywhere from 550 to 900hp. Turbo and blower setups. Stock bottom end and forged setups. Currently doing on a stock 4l60e too and it's living at 700hp.

 

Do you have a secret... in the spirit of the OP question.

 

i dont think it's a secret.

good IAT's, safe afr and mild spark advance.

getting a 4l60e to live at 700hp though?

yeah he's sacrificing small animals all sorts of voodoo

 

I don't typically post my stuff cause you get idiots like Hio and Rotary who just bash what I consider true street cars.....i.e. full weight, AC, stock like daily driver manners, and require no maintenance except spark plugs and oil changes. But because they don't run 8's they're garbage. My current toy in sig, 2000 SS has a D1SC, 230 cam, 3600 stall, 295/50/16 drag radials, and my wife goes shopping in it with AC, but will tear your face off when you put your foot down.

Many have already made general statements about timing, which is very important. But I am also a strong believer in having a MAF on the car. When I turned my Turbo TA up to 900hp that was 93 octane, 15 psi, 12 degrees of timing, and I was using an ls7 cartridge maf in a 4 inch tube with a Saxon airscreen. The entire tune was scaled 50% so as not to max the airflow hard coded limit in the stock 98 computer....or any stock computer for that matter.

Something else I do is look at others Dyno graphs based on the cam they have so you can see where peak torque occurs and make sure to drop timing in those areas. The majority of my timing tables never exceed 14 degrees total, even at high rpm. Am I sacrificing some power, yep; but since straight 93 octane can vary and so can weather conditions, I err on the side of caution and haven't blown a motor yet. I also am a big fan of pulling IAT based timing. I start pulling at 113*. Any power lost from a few degrees of timing can be made up with more boost if you really want.

Frcefed has some good info on plug reading which is another biggie for me. I ALWAYS use BR7EF on anything boosted. Running 1 step colder of a plug can be huge when keeping detonation away and sacrifices very little if any over the standard TR6 everyone throws in their cars. Keeping the spark plug from being a glow plug is important Also while I agree that you really need to read clean plugs at the end of a pass with no idle the on them, checking your plugs regularly tells you in general if your spark is too much, since it burns off the outer layer on the ground strap. If you have too much timing you'll see that even after 1000 miles of daily driving with short pulls. It's also a good indication of any specs on the porcelain which is a bad sign.

In general I'm more methodical and conservative than most. Someone may make another 50-75hp over me, but my stuff runs in FL Summers and doesn't blow up.

 

 

total derail but I just switched to 7's from tr6's

had to add a bunch of air to get it to idle okay. I'm now at like 15.8 on the gas scale (pump 91) at idle.

is that normal?


don't let the haters keep you from sharing info. all that negativity coming off those fools...just think what shitty, unfulfilling lives they must lead. it's a pity really.

you've helped me a ton, please keep the info rolling.

 

thanks for the kind words. On your car, did you change the gap at the same time? Just moving from a 6 to a 7 shouldn't make it idle much different. You sure you don't have a cracked or chipped porcelain?