When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys need your thoughts on a few things. My engine bay temps seem really hot. I currently have all the hot side piping ceramic coated inside and out. Yes it cools quick when I shut it down but when it's running it gets really hot. I've done some searches but haven't heard or seen any hard evidence regarding ceramic coating and wrapping the hot side. Some say it will rust out and crack, some say not to worry. I was thinking about trying it to get the temps down. What temps do you typically see? My hot side is mild steel FYI.
There's a long thread on here about this subject. It seems the best thing is to do both. Some guys just spray the headers with BBQ grill heat spray paint, then wrap them.
You already have ceramic coating....so just wrap them now.
I think the issues come from daily drivers exposed to rain and/or snow. From your picture I doubt you will have an issue and I would just wrap them. Mine are wrapped over ceramic and I have zero issues but is fair weather only.
I think the issues come from daily drivers exposed to rain and/or snow. From your picture I doubt you will have an issue and I would just wrap them. Mine are wrapped over ceramic and I have zero issues but is fair weather only.
yes mine is fair weather only as well😁 I dont plan on wrapping the manifolds, just the cross over, down pipe and the Waste gate dump into the DP. Next ? What brand do you recommend and should I do the 2" wide or the 1".
yes mine is fair weather only as well😁 I dont plan on wrapping the manifolds, just the cross over, down pipe and the Waste gate dump into the DP. Next ? What brand do you recommend and should I do the 2" wide or the 1".
I went with 2" for the down pipe because there were only 45 bends. The crossover got 1". I recommend getting some stainless worm gear clamps from Mcmaster Carr to hold the wrap. From some reason I could never get the thin crimp straps as tight as I wanted them.
Width is simply to make it easier to cover. 1" will require a lot more work and overlap...2" less so. If it's an easy shape of pipe, go for 2". If intricate and awkward shapes, go 1"
But yes, retaining heat inside the pipes will lead to premature failure, especially stainless. Up to how you drive/treat it and the quality of pipework as to how long that might take.
But as mentioned in another thread, the best way to deal with heat...is to have good airflow and to allow it to escape.
I went with 2" for the down pipe because there were only 45 bends. The crossover got 1". I recommend getting some stainless worm gear clamps from Mcmaster Carr to hold the wrap. From some reason I could never get the thin crimp straps as tight as I wanted them.
how often do you drive your car? I'd hate to wrap them just to have the piping rust out.
Width is simply to make it easier to cover. 1" will require a lot more work and overlap...2" less so. If it's an easy shape of pipe, go for 2". If intricate and awkward shapes, go 1"
But yes, retaining heat inside the pipes will lead to premature failure, especially stainless. Up to how you drive/treat it and the quality of pipework as to how long that might take.
But as mentioned in another thread, the best way to deal with heat...is to have good airflow and to allow it to escape.
all of my tubing is mild steel ceramic coated inside and out. Do you personally have experience with premature failure on coated parts that have been Wrapped?
I've no idea, I've never measured them. When driving I'm sure airflow takes care of most issues.
Unless the hot parts are near anything that needs protecting from heat, I dont see an issue with exposed parts. Hence only cover what actually needs covered.
And another aspect...wrap can look great when new. Over time, it usually ends up looking like crap that can spoil an otherwise great looking engine bay. Although the newer titanium/lava type wraps do seem to be more resilient than the older stuff in that respect.
I've no idea, I've never measured them. When driving I'm sure airflow takes care of most issues.
Unless the hot parts are near anything that needs protecting from heat, I dont see an issue with exposed parts. Hence only cover what actually needs covered.
And another aspect...wrap can look great when new. Over time, it usually ends up looking like crap that can spoil an otherwise great looking engine bay. Although the newer titanium/lava type wraps do seem to be more resilient than the older stuff in that respect.
I borrowed a temp fun from work today. I'm going to take it for a drive and see what I come up with.
I wrapped my SS hot-side and down-pipe with cheap 2" eBay wrap.
Been that way for almost three years now, car gets street driven regularly mostly on sunny days but has seen some rain for sure.
No cracks, no issues and really keeps the heat at bay in my cramped 4th Gen engine compartment.
I've never melted any wires or had any other heat related issues so to me its worth the investment and risk.
I've no idea, I've never measured them. When driving I'm sure airflow takes care of most issues.
Unless the hot parts are near anything that needs protecting from heat, I dont see an issue with exposed parts. Hence only cover what actually needs covered.
And another aspect...wrap can look great when new. Over time, it usually ends up looking like crap that can spoil an otherwise great looking engine bay. Although the newer titanium/lava type wraps do seem to be more resilient than the older stuff in that respect.
Now I've heard that wrapping serves two functions:
- Protecting surrounding components from heat damage.
- Keeping heat in the exhaust for better gas velocity for spooling the turbo.
I don't know if anyone has ever compared a wrapped hot-side to a non-wrapped hot-side for comparison but that is one of those theories floating around.
I'd be curious to know what guys thoughts are on it.
And again, having seen the damage it can cause to stainless tubes...I would never wrap unless absolutely necessary. I dont care about any claims about spool.
Although if the car rarely gets used hard, it would probably last a very long time, or the likes of Sch10 type tubing would probably be no issue given it's thickness/strength.
And again, having seen the damage it can cause to stainless tubes...I would never wrap unless absolutely necessary. I dont care about any claims about spool.
Although if the car rarely gets used hard, it would probably last a very long time, or the likes of Sch10 type tubing would probably be no issue given it's thickness/strength.
Hey Stevie, is it any and all SS tubes as in SS manifolds in place of iron manifolds or are you encompassing the entire hotside?
Does the hot-side manufacturer play a role in cracking like say CX-Racing versus a high quality kit do you think?
I only ask because I've read about many guys who didn't wrap the hot-side on their 4th gen turbo kits and had latent heat issues so it almost seems like in some scenarios you have to wrap.
how often do you drive your car? I'd hate to wrap them just to have the piping rust out.
I drive it a few times a week in the summer. It gets hot under the hood and I beat on the car every time it's out. 3k miles and almost 2 years with no issues so far. Wrap still looks perfect but I don't plan to remove it to inspect the pipes. If something cracks I'll let you know but so far the Vibrant SS is holding up.
Corect, I don't want to wrap the cast manifolds, mainly the cross over, DP and waste gate dump. My manifolds are C6 corvette manifolds.
That's similar to what I'm running, a truck mani on the driver side and a corvette mani on the passenger.
I wrapped the entire hot-side up to the manifolds and the down pipe down to the bell-housing.
I've heard of SS cracking when wrapped but if I'm totally honest my car might see maybe 1,000 miles per year, depending on PNW weather lol.
I'm with you though, when it comes out it gets driven like I stole it and for me I'd rather have the temp. reduction because that causes the kind of issues that make you not want to drive the car.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
Ceramic coating with wrap 
