Pulled the trigger guys :)
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Staging Lane
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Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2013
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Haha, i'm a fan of Denmah in fact he's probably what got me here, but fairmonts just don't do it for me. I understand they probably don't do it for them either just a cheap car that can be had for next to nothing. I just rather put it into something that I don't mind looking at and that doesn't weigh as much as a tug boat. (althought chevy 2 probably pretty heavy)
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Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2013
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I have two question for you guys.
One is this post in the right area? I don't want to be mis- posting and pissing people off.
Second my plan is to keep Gen 4 internals so long as I can. What I mean by this is that the motor has 200,000 miles on it, so i'm rebuilding it. If the machinist can't just hone the bores and they have to be taken out .10 or .20/.30 the stock pistons will no longer work for me. I can't find this out without pulling the pistons out and sending the bare block in. What is the best way if even necessary (does it matter if its getting hones?) to mark pistons for cylinder bores ? paint pen ? some people stamp numbers into them is that safe for the parts ? or pull them get a piece of card board mark 1-8 slide connecting rods through appropriate marking?
I'd like to have a build thread I just don't have a car for this motor yet.
Thanks Andy
One is this post in the right area? I don't want to be mis- posting and pissing people off.
Second my plan is to keep Gen 4 internals so long as I can. What I mean by this is that the motor has 200,000 miles on it, so i'm rebuilding it. If the machinist can't just hone the bores and they have to be taken out .10 or .20/.30 the stock pistons will no longer work for me. I can't find this out without pulling the pistons out and sending the bare block in. What is the best way if even necessary (does it matter if its getting hones?) to mark pistons for cylinder bores ? paint pen ? some people stamp numbers into them is that safe for the parts ? or pull them get a piece of card board mark 1-8 slide connecting rods through appropriate marking?
I'd like to have a build thread I just don't have a car for this motor yet.
Thanks Andy
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Feb 2015
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With goals (hp, et, etc.), fuel, and budget defined, then figure out motor requirements. If not planning > 800whp, you could get away just checking ring gap, install a cam and supporting springs. No need to rebuild short block.
Denmah pushed the Colorado to ~950whp before the rings weren't up to the task on his ~260K mile 6.0. IIRC he just gapped a new set of rings and threw them in then off to the dyno to crank out a >1000whp pull (he did plumbed some nitrous so he wouldn't be disappointed)
If you want more reliable 1000+whp and budget allows, then build forged piston/rod combo.
Denmah pushed the Colorado to ~950whp before the rings weren't up to the task on his ~260K mile 6.0. IIRC he just gapped a new set of rings and threw them in then off to the dyno to crank out a >1000whp pull (he did plumbed some nitrous so he wouldn't be disappointed)
If you want more reliable 1000+whp and budget allows, then build forged piston/rod combo.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 91
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With goals (hp, et, etc.), fuel, and budget defined, then figure out motor requirements. If not planning > 800whp, you could get away just checking ring gap, install a cam and supporting springs. No need to rebuild short block.
Denmah pushed the Colorado to ~950whp before the rings weren't up to the task on his ~260K mile 6.0. IIRC he just gapped a new set of rings and threw them in then off to the dyno to crank out a >1000whp pull (he did plumbed some nitrous so he wouldn't be disappointed)
If you want more reliable 1000+whp and budget allows, then build forged piston/rod combo.
Denmah pushed the Colorado to ~950whp before the rings weren't up to the task on his ~260K mile 6.0. IIRC he just gapped a new set of rings and threw them in then off to the dyno to crank out a >1000whp pull (he did plumbed some nitrous so he wouldn't be disappointed)
If you want more reliable 1000+whp and budget allows, then build forged piston/rod combo.
my goals are 700-800 rwhp, I wouldn't say its "budget" but its not 100% build either aka not buying aftermarket heads/intake forged pistons/rods but starting with Gen4 internals 799 heads and ill probably pickup an ls6 intake and planned on freshening up the block unless everyone really thinks im wasting my time.
Thanks for the reply
Shame you didn't get the intake too. I wouldn't say one way or the other on freshing it up, till it's apart. IF the bores are clean, and there are not rolled bearings, I would check everything, and depending on shape, consider replacing bearings. Denmah has cleaned up so many of these, and just reassembled them and had such good luck, its hard to argue with his results. Seems like they just don't get the oil changed enough, and it gums up the rings and causes them to use oil.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2013
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Shame you didn't get the intake too. I wouldn't say one way or the other on freshing it up, till it's apart. IF the bores are clean, and there are not rolled bearings, I would check everything, and depending on shape, consider replacing bearings. Denmah has cleaned up so many of these, and just reassembled them and had such good luck, its hard to argue with his results. Seems like they just don't get the oil changed enough, and it gums up the rings and causes them to use oil.
I got a stock truck intake, I would have had to buy the ls6 intake regardless unless I bought a legitimate late model ls1 motor or ls6 motor. I'm not sure what these stock 08 truck manifold flow but my guess is worse than ls6.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2013
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Whats your reasoning behind using a truck manifold over an ls6 just curious ? Because I already have it so its low cost ? I'd like to build the motor with the best stock components I can, the more power I can make N/A the less boost i'll have to hit it with the achieve my 700-800rwhp.
Also whats the cfm like compared to the ls6?
Whats your reasoning behind using a truck manifold over an ls6 just curious ? Because I already have it so its low cost ? I'd like to build the motor with the best stock components I can, the more power I can make N/A the less boost i'll have to hit it with the achieve my 700-800rwhp.
Also whats the cfm like compared to the ls6?
Also whats the cfm like compared to the ls6?
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Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2013
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It’s the flow under the curve. More usable power/torque rather than peak. You might give up some up top, but who cares? I’d rather have more average power/torque. Obviously this could be rpm dependent. If you’re planning on spinning it to the moon, I’d probably look into a different intake. Too bad they’re so ugly. I run one BTW! Lol
I dont plant on spinning it to the moon, the idea for me is relatively cheap reliable power. I'd like to keep it to 6800rpm max if possible for longevity purposes. And i rather useable power curve then power up top so maybe ill keep truck intake and call it a day. Would be nice to know cfm of intake so that I can roughly match to the heads (256-257 cfm at 550-600 lift)
The reason the truck manifold is so rad is because for starters they are everywhere!!! They are dirt cheap and if you are buying anything else you can usually get them thrown in for free. Secondly unlike the ls1 and ls6 manifolds they were put into trucks (duh) that have a lot more room in them. So they don't suffer from size restrictions and are allowed to be physically larger. Think about all of those bad *** intake manifolds dudes want for their 4th gen that won't fit under the hood or cowl, same scenario. Now for the fine details. Well there aren't any conclusive proof. Everyone agrees that they outflow the LS1 intake manifold. They say they are comparable to the LS6 manifold but the LS6 makes more power up top. When it comes to dyno results however Chevy High Performance Magazine did a shoot out on a stockish LS1. Where the truck manifold beat the LS1, LS6, and even a fast in terms of max hp. Now those are results that hold merit.
So if you have a truck manifold and it will fit I'd run it. Especially since you are going turbo the benefits will not be noticeable with the ls6. Besides the ls6 doesn't look so goofy. Save that 300 and invest it in something else that can actually change the power output.
So if you have a truck manifold and it will fit I'd run it. Especially since you are going turbo the benefits will not be noticeable with the ls6. Besides the ls6 doesn't look so goofy. Save that 300 and invest it in something else that can actually change the power output.