Nova going in under the knife
just sucked in general-I was at a loss, as it killed plugs, yet the AFR's looked good.
I found a leak with the cross over pipe at the back of the log manifold, cut the pipe and welded
it back together so it was a tight fit, found #7 inj. plug wasn't snapped on, so it wasn't always making conns.
and I built a whole new tune for it. I loaded the tune this morn, not holding out hope it would be diff,
it fired right up, idled good, went in gear w/o dying. So I chanced a ride around the block.
Man, this big bumper bitch is right-just a little tweak and it lights off, buries you back in the seat.
Pretty friggin awesome-I wasn't expecting it to have this much low end-after all the months and
then the problems running, it feels like a 6 beer night, lol.
I personally ran a 4 into dual 2.5 for a year and then cause everyone said it was a huge restriction i changed it to dual 3s and gained not 1 single whp. Sometimes its better left alone. Lol. Im sure 20 people will jump on here and say i gained 27.5 hp but my opinion dual 2.5s are fine.
rear bumper tuck, had to give it some thought, but ended up being pretty simple. I cut the vert. adj. plate off the bumper
shock, tacked it to the body, kind of centered over the shock holes, then used the grinder to slot the holes. Then I bolted
the bumper back on. Still have the vert/hort. adjustment. The bumper and brace had a lot of weight, so I decided not to cut
any of the brace out, good place to have weight, lol. It pushed the rear 3" closer to the body. Hopefully tomorrow I go for
another drive, the new tune has it running good. A buddy gave me one of those vac. canisters for the brakes, so i'll see
if that helps-if not, hydro boost.
App. they have changed how they post pics, lol
I guess the car was making more power than I wanted at first, was playing with the boost controller,
doing some data logging, cruising along in overdrive, decided to hit it. It down shifted and buried me in
the seat, got loose, so I got out of it, coming back home I lost overdrive, had trouble going into 3rd.
Data log showed 14 PSI @ 5100 RPM's, I will have to turn that down for now, should have shifted
back to 3rd before messing around. Hoping for a stuck 2-3 valve, but most likely the trans will have
to come out. I had started building a spare (80E), so might just finish it up and do a swap. I think
the engine is ok, but with flat top pistons (5.3) and 241 heads, add in the boost and 93 octane, was
kind of living on the edge, lol.
Well I checked all my conns., so I pulled the pan off the trans, hoping to find something wrong.
I think I have figured out the trans is going in limp mode, 2nd and rev. I am replacing the pressure
switch, hoping it ay times wasn't telling the controller what gear it was in.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
just decided to fail around the time I was testing-dam electronics, lol. A whole lot easier to swap
out than a trans, and it was under warranty. I will def pull it out of OD before doing a hit, save it from
possible downshift under power.
stuff, you know the unimportant stuff when there is a car to build. Wives don't get it, lol.
Anyway, I have been using the old rear that was in the 9" housing, it had 3.50's, and 31 splines,
just non posi and noisey. Debated ordering parts vs a comp. one, so I decided to just get
one comp. Same ratio, Quick Perf. had it to me in a few days, was in an hour after UPS dropped
it off (already had it ready) Prob keep the old one for a spare.
Going thru a couple heat/cool downs, then i'll ck for black marks, lol.
I needed a 5" 45 or 90 degree bend for the K&N air filter, found one at Ace Hardware, pretty
cool, you can swivel it to diff angles. Next up is some Caltracs.
Decided to address the brake issue, with the 11" power booster, it wasn't happy with 14" of vac., so the brakes
were iffy-I temp. had an electric vac. pump hooked to the brake light switch, worked pretty good, but I decided
to go with hydro boost. Scored one off ebay when they had one of their 20% off deals. Saved me $100, and if I
bought it from the vendor instead of thru ebay, would have been $50 shipping, so I saved $150. Soon as I get
the adapter fitting for the spitter (return) I will redo the line, keep it away from the hood spring.
Tomorrow i'll bleed it, run thru the brakes again, then if it ever stops raining, test them out.
lowering blocks, switched to a shorter shock (relocated shocks inboard, so I had to search
my shock book for one with the right specs). After that, now the rear hits the tailpipes, so I
have to make up some new ones higher. Decided to add a front sway bar, it cornered like a brick,
Not fun installing a front sway bar on a nova, esp with a motor sitting low. But I got it in, still
have to test drive it. As usual, whatever you do creates a problem, my access to the waste gate
is now blocked by the sway bar, but I may be able to get to it another way. it only had the red
(weak) spring, so I plumbed from the turbo to the upper chamber, tee'd into that line and ran
the line to my controller, then controller to lower chamber. I have been playing with the controller,
hopefully by adding boost to the lower chamber I can lower the boost, to high now. If it
works ok, then I wont need to rem it for now.
"traditional" way, comp. to the bottom, controller to the top, only made 3 # on spring, 6 with
cont. open. I ordered 2 springs from JGS, black and silver, they said the black would be double,
but only made 1# more than red spring, about 7 on cont. So I have switched to the silver, it def
is stronger. I was able to rem the trans cooler, makes easy access to the WG. The WG is a royal
PITA to rem the C clip to take the WG apart, and also to install on the car. I push open the gate,
insert something small under the valve, then can install it w/o having to try and push the valve seat
in to get the V clamp on, then I pull vac on the upper port and rem. what I installed to hold the valve open.
If it dries out tomorrow, i'll test it out. Picked up a 6.0 out of a burnt truck, so maybe a fut. upgrade.
Sometimes Ebay offers a discount, somehow they make it up to the vendor somehow, they just had
a 15% offer.
Yep, it bolted right up-was actually adv. as 67-69 Camaro, but same unit.
x mem. that raised the area where the tailpipes go over the rear, so I could raise the tailpipes. I was putting it off
until I got the Caltracks, I wasn't sure where the shock mounts would hit. While I had stuff apart, I replaced the axel studs
with longer ones. I have a gen 3 6.0, scored some forged pistons, and grabbed some Scat rods while Ebay had
one of their % off deals. They keep changing stuff on this site, tried to post pics but no idea how or where they
went, lol.












