Switch to PG or put a brake in the 80E?
#1
Switch to PG or put a brake in the 80E?
I am contemplating on switching to powerglide from my 4L80E and wanted to get some opinions. I have had some issues with my 80E the past two years and am getting tired of messing with it.
I am looking at either installing an Extreme Automatics 4L80E transbrake valve body that will make it full manual, or picking up a used, but refreshed, Rossler Powerglide. The powerglide obviously has a brake, and is a stock case with a 1.96 first gear. I know that 1st gear is not common at all but what are your thoughts on it? I can pick this glide up for $1,000 and could always buy a new gear set if needed.
The 4L80E brake lists for $995, is an easy install, will make it shift better, and be more reliable. If I go this route I would still be able to use my current trans cross member and driveshaft.
Switching to a glide would be a little more challenging due to me having to sell off my current setup. Glide would save me 100 lbs off the bat though and be a hell of lot easier to install and refresh when needed. I still drive the car around quite a bit but not as much as I used to.
My car currently is an iron 365, Billet S480, 3.50 gear, 275 Pro, MS3Pro, on E85 and according to a grain scale weighs 3600 lbs with me in it. Leaving off the footbrake I can get into the high 1.3's but would like to be in the 1.2's eventually.
Thanks for any information and opinions.
I am looking at either installing an Extreme Automatics 4L80E transbrake valve body that will make it full manual, or picking up a used, but refreshed, Rossler Powerglide. The powerglide obviously has a brake, and is a stock case with a 1.96 first gear. I know that 1st gear is not common at all but what are your thoughts on it? I can pick this glide up for $1,000 and could always buy a new gear set if needed.
The 4L80E brake lists for $995, is an easy install, will make it shift better, and be more reliable. If I go this route I would still be able to use my current trans cross member and driveshaft.
Switching to a glide would be a little more challenging due to me having to sell off my current setup. Glide would save me 100 lbs off the bat though and be a hell of lot easier to install and refresh when needed. I still drive the car around quite a bit but not as much as I used to.
My car currently is an iron 365, Billet S480, 3.50 gear, 275 Pro, MS3Pro, on E85 and according to a grain scale weighs 3600 lbs with me in it. Leaving off the footbrake I can get into the high 1.3's but would like to be in the 1.2's eventually.
Thanks for any information and opinions.
#3
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iTrader: (14)
That's a very weird first gear ratio for a glide
Almost in the realm of a 2 speed TH400 at that ratio, 1.80 is as high as I would go on a bigger power car that drop from the 1.96 to 1:1 might prove a tricky one and would take a SPOT on converter which may take a few tries
Almost in the realm of a 2 speed TH400 at that ratio, 1.80 is as high as I would go on a bigger power car that drop from the 1.96 to 1:1 might prove a tricky one and would take a SPOT on converter which may take a few tries
#5
Yeah, I don't really care anymore about having OD. I'll have a trailer in the spring and the car won't be driven to the track very often, if at all.
That's what I was wondering. I'm wondering if it would still be worth buying this glide and picking up a 1.80 gear set for it would be the way to go. Eventually I'd pick up an aftermarket case to put the guts in as well.
I've been in a couple different local Turbo LS/Powerglide cars but both had relatively low numerically rear gears. One's a 3.08 and the other is a 3.27. Neither one was bad at all cruising at highway speeds. Obviously putting an 80E in 3rd gear would be the same and mine screams pretty good at highway speeds but I think I could easily get used to it.
That's a very weird first gear ratio for a glide
Almost in the realm of a 2 speed TH400 at that ratio, 1.80 is as high as I would go on a bigger power car that drop from the 1.96 to 1:1 might prove a tricky one and would take a SPOT on converter which may take a few tries
Almost in the realm of a 2 speed TH400 at that ratio, 1.80 is as high as I would go on a bigger power car that drop from the 1.96 to 1:1 might prove a tricky one and would take a SPOT on converter which may take a few tries
I've been in a couple different local Turbo LS/Powerglide cars but both had relatively low numerically rear gears. One's a 3.08 and the other is a 3.27. Neither one was bad at all cruising at highway speeds. Obviously putting an 80E in 3rd gear would be the same and mine screams pretty good at highway speeds but I think I could easily get used to it.
#6
If OD is not a necessity for you then its an easy choice to ditch the heavy power robbing 80e. I agree with what was said above regarding the 1st gear ratio though. It will be tuff on marginal tracks. Then again if you are successful with the 2.40 first you have now you might be OK.
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#8
If OD is not a necessity for you then its an easy choice to ditch the heavy power robbing 80e. I agree with what was said above regarding the 1st gear ratio though. It will be tuff on marginal tracks. Then again if you are successful with the 2.40 first you have now you might be OK.
#9
100% go to the glide. If you plan to change the gear set and case I would just buy a whole new trans in the future probably. Just spend the $$ on a nice converter like a 9.5" ptc.
#10
1.96 ratio is common in some super stock cars. I like the 1.76 for endurance and really didn't have any problem with the glide over th400 and think the glide is a better choice myself
#20
I don't think I should be having any issues at all at my level but I am. For some reason this trans never came close to shifting as well as the stock unit with an HD-2 shift kit in it. Last year I had an issue with the pump bushing welding itself to the converter snout. This year I took the car to an alignment shop and they pinched/crushed one of my trans cooler lines and I drove it home 15 miles like that pissing fluid all over everything. It still had fluid on the dipstick when I got home and realized what happened though. The trans never really felt right before that though and according to logs the 1-2 shifts were almost identical to the year prior (slow and soft).
I took it out a couple of times after the trans line issue and the first outing it did ok, minus the slow and soft 1-2, but the next outing it wouldn't make the 1-2 shift and would hit the limiter and then go to 3rd. Pressure readings were way down (less than 100 psi no matter what) so I decided to call it a year and pull it out. I honestly think that there was something else inside the trans not right prior to the mishap at the alignment shop. The converter wouldn't lockup in 4th like it was supposed to either and I am guessing that was due to a pressure issue somewhere in the trans.
Not entirely sure it's related to the trans but my new engine had gold shavings in the oil filter after the first and second changes. Thought maybe the pinched/pissing line had something to do with taking out the thrust but I haven't got it all torn down yet.
At this point I am ready to either make the car faster or sell it with a refreshed 80E. So that leaves me where I am at with either the EA valvebody or a Powerglide. I know my issues are not the fault of the 80E, but rather a possible builder or parts issue.
I took it out a couple of times after the trans line issue and the first outing it did ok, minus the slow and soft 1-2, but the next outing it wouldn't make the 1-2 shift and would hit the limiter and then go to 3rd. Pressure readings were way down (less than 100 psi no matter what) so I decided to call it a year and pull it out. I honestly think that there was something else inside the trans not right prior to the mishap at the alignment shop. The converter wouldn't lockup in 4th like it was supposed to either and I am guessing that was due to a pressure issue somewhere in the trans.
Not entirely sure it's related to the trans but my new engine had gold shavings in the oil filter after the first and second changes. Thought maybe the pinched/pissing line had something to do with taking out the thrust but I haven't got it all torn down yet.
At this point I am ready to either make the car faster or sell it with a refreshed 80E. So that leaves me where I am at with either the EA valvebody or a Powerglide. I know my issues are not the fault of the 80E, but rather a possible builder or parts issue.