HydroStream6

iTrader: (16)

Well the LS bug bit me again. I sold my GTO in my sig in 2014 and have been rocking a 335i. I had to get another V8 and recently picked up another 04 GTO, 6 speed.

I want to keep the car a 6 speed this time. I'd like it to pull as hard as the GTO in my sig on the highway. I'm going to fab a kit using truck manifolds and eBay twins. Fuel will be E85 and I do all my own tuning.

I'd like to use internal gates if possible for the clean look. Spool is important and for now I'm just going to rock the 5.7. I'll eventually throw a 4.8 in most likely since they're pretty accessible here. I built an RX7 with a stock 5.3L that ran 158 in the quarter with a 7875, so I'm certain the 4.8 could get me to my goal in the GTO.

I'm looking at a GT3582 with the following details:
Compressor details
a/r 0.50
air inlet 3.00" air outlet 2.00"
inducer 61.40mm exducer 82.00mm
Turbine details
a/r 1.06
turbine housing flange:T3
Exhaust outlet:5 bolt
inducer 67.75mm exducer 62.30mm

I think the 62mm turbine with the larger T3 housing should spool great and still get me to my goals (figure 800rwhp or so). Questions:

1. Will the gate be able to keep up? Port it?
2. Will these support my goal?
3. Any other turbo recommendations?

Thanks!
Adam

svslow

Similar combo here,

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...win-gt35s.html

BlwnLs1GTO

iTrader: (12)

Hi HydroStream,
I have a similar set up. I was the person who built the first TT GTO using the Truck manifolds. Do yourself a favor and use the LS3 Camaro manifolds instead. They're symmetric where the truck manifolds are not and put your turbochargers right behind the headlights which allow No Room whatsoever for air filters.
I threw my turbo setup away as soon as the UPP kit (Copied) came out and started this new build and it's so much better. Using turbo's with wastegates was also an option for me at the time. I don't think you'll have any issues at all hitting your goals with that setup and you'll have a lot of room to work with.

BTW, I just bought a 335i Xdrive and I love it nice little daily driver while I work on my GTO.

Good luck. If you'd like some pictures of my current setup with the LS3 manni's, let me know.

HydroStream6

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the awesome info! What turbos are you using? Also, I would love any and all pics. Feel free to post here or I can PM you my email address. Thanks!

What year 335 did you get? Any mods? I have an 11 with a Pure ST2 turbo and JB4. Ran it for the first time last weekend, went 11.8@119. Not bad for such a cozy little tank. I love it. Need port injection to go much further with it.

BlwnLs1GTO

iTrader: (12)

I bought a used 2011 335ix with 78k on it. I've been driving a 2001 Civic for the last 8 years (still love that car) and decided to buy something to keep traffic from cutting me off on the on ramps lol.
No mods. I'm going to keep it stock for now but I've seen all that's available and there's some pretty good stuff out there. Although, I haven't heard of any turbo upgrades so I'll definitely be checking that out! I assume the JB4 is the preloaded tune that plugs right into the car and wakes it up to 400 HP?

Anyways,
I'll snap some pics for you, hopefully tonight and post them up here to show you exactly how I designed it for my car. It will help give you some ideas I'm sure.

HydroStream6

iTrader: (16)

At the VERY least, get yourself a used JB4 for your N55. If you have good quality 93 octane, run map 2 and say hello to a HUGE performance gain, and you can usually find them used around $300. If you have E85 available, run 50/50 E85/93 and run Map 7 and you'll be very happy. The JB4 for the N55 just plugs in between a few sensors under the hood and can be controlled from your steering wheel buttons. Easy. Check out n54tech and e90post forums.

And YES, looking forward to the pics. Almost time to start working on the car, snow will be flying soon.

Thanks!
Adam

BlwnLs1GTO

iTrader: (12)

Sorry for the long delay with the pics.

Originally I took a pair of truck manifolds, inspired by the guys here using them for single turbo builds. Flipped them upside down and found that they fit very well. I went on to finish that build and put down (I forget exactly) 884/8xx. Not sure what the psi was as the engine scattered on the Dyno due to a crack in a pair of CNC ported 317's in the #7 cylinder. It hydro locked and blew that cylinder apart on an LS2 block.

I decided to build a Iron 408 afterwards which is what's currently in the car now. New set of TSP 2.5 317 heads with Pac 1904 springs, Martin Turbo cam, 23x/23x .630/.615 116+5.
Turbo's are T-Netics, 66/65's. The TC66's, aka Benita? T4/.70 compressor housings.

I was looking at rebuilding my setup because of how close the turbo intakes are behind the headlights. There's no room for adequate air filters nor can you make a CIA for them. The wastegate position is also at 90 degrees off the charge pipes, not ideal. The LS3 Manifolds were the cure. They're symmetrical and the outlet is much closer to the engine allowing the turbo's to be closer to the engine as well. You can see in my pics (Dusty from sitting, sorry) that I'm able to run a 4" inlet down behind the fascia in between the wheel well. So much better IMO, plus I'm using large Cone filters on each.
I designed the wastegates to come off of the turbo with more of a Y like routing. I'm using a scavenger pump mounted inside the Fascia, opposite of where the horn is located. No issues at all with this however, I'm using a Tilton pump and I'll be switching to the Turbowerx down the road as they're a hair too loud. I'm running the return oil back to the Passenger side valve cover. There's enough material there to drill and tap.

Piping:
I originally ordered 2 pairs each of the SS 2.5" and Mild Steel 2.5" V bands. The Mild steel was welded to the manifold and the SS was welded to Sch. 5 SS304 piping. The Sch. 5 piping is great. I also used the short radius as you can see how tight the bends are needed to get the turbo even farther back. Later I decided to Weld the V Bands together though. You can see where they're located by the rings in the Heat wrap. The wastegates are re routed back into the downpipes as well.

If I were to do it again, I'd cut each manifold at an angle towards the front so that the bend isn't so long in the up piping. And, I'd really take my time fabbing the exhaust. You CAN fab it up so that all of your spark plugs are easily R&R'd. That's the only downfall to my setup IMO. It spools FAST on a TH400/3600 Yank Stall but drives nice and tight at cruising.

Gotta check on the Turkey! I'll check back later if you have any questions.

RealQuick

iTrader: (14)

Nice build!

HydroStream6

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the pics and write up! I really like how short the pre turbo side is. This is exactly what I had in mind.

What size exhaust did you run on each side? And what AR are your turbos? I'm worried about spool since my car is a stick. But I want to make good power, I want it all haha.

The original turbos I was looking at was these. I figured the itnernal gates would be nice.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GT35-GT3582...19.m1438.l2649

Now I'm thinking of running these billet wheel turbos and run external gates. I would just atmos dump them and run 2.5" downpipes.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GT35-GT3582...19.m1438.l2649

Thoughts?

Time to source some manifolds and start pulling it apart. Thanks!

Adam

BlwnLs1GTO

iTrader: (12)

I'm running a small .68 A/R Turbine housing. They're on the small side and if I could do it again, I'd step them up to .82 for the street. I can tell I'm running some higher back pressure on these small housings but the torque and the spool is amazing.

I'd go for option #2 on the turbo's. More than enough flow for either. only downside is the need for external gates and the size is much bigger for the amount of space in our engine bays.

I'm running 3" downpipes on each side.
I think 2.5" for you would be okay and not really hinder performance in any way, unless you're trying to break records...Plus, you'll have plenty of room to swap plugs which is definitely worth it IMO.

That 370 will run like a beast on the street though with any of those turbo's. Spool will be decent and the power will be more than capable of reaching the limits of a street machine on street radials.

Let me know if you need more pics. As you can see on my setup, I built a bracket for my coils and mounted it up high on the back of the fire wall. I've seen others recently who've flipped their coils upside down with the stock mounting bracket in the OE location, allowing room to run longer wires around the hot manifolds. You MUST get the MSD (or similar) kit that allows you to build the wire lengths needed to clear these manifolds. And they come with heat shielding. Those manifolds get hot and will burn through those wires in no time if touching the manifolds without some type of heat shielding. you can see I doubled up on the wires that are close/touching the manifolds.

Again,
check out the Sch. 5 SS304 piping. It's the thinnest of the schedule piping and comes with regular and tight radius bends. They're so easy to weld on if you're a novice welder like me and have problems burning through the thin wall 16 Ga. tubing, including slight "Sugaring" on the inside of the piping, unless you back purge, which I'm not set up for lol.

Good luck man,
Please let me know if you have any questions or if I can help!

BlwnLs1GTO

iTrader: (12)

BTW,
my turbo's are the same size as the turbo's in your link #2. They're .70 Compressor housings but with T4/.68 turbine housings.
Not billet though. yours have a larger turbine wheel which is better. I think 2.5" exhaust tubing is the way to go, too.

HydroStream6

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the info! I think the TC66s have a 65mm exducer on the turbine. The billet GT35s I linked to are 62mm on the exducer. The .82 T3 turbine housing is probably a bit smaller than you .68 T4 housing as well. I'd like to get the 1.06 T3s but he's out of stock.

Considering my car is a stick, I still think they'll do a good job. Spool is important and should still carry decent power.

I definitely want the plugs to be accessible. When I fabbed the manifold on my last GTO, doing plugs and wires was impossible. I don't want to go down that road again. I'm ordering parts now so I'll be updating with build photos in a couple weeks

BlwnLs1GTO

iTrader: (12)

Oh yep, I misread the listing. They're a bit smaller on the turbine exducer. I don't think you'll have any issues with that. Faster spool with moderate power levels on a stick is great for overall performance with straights and turns. Should make you happy, especially since you've been driving that 335i. That damn car is so much fun! The turns are absolutely amazing with the xDrive and the breaking, too.

Larger A/R housing for sure if you can get your hands on them. But, they really don't make a "Major" difference overall IMO.

If you go with 2.5" exhaust, you might be able to run the exhaust over the top of the manifolds and keeping the LS3 exhaust manifolds bolted down and forward, rather than upside down? That way you can add a V band at the back of the block where the pipe begins to turn down towards the transmission. This will allow stock like clearance for you plugs. not sure if you can clear the A/C compressor, but I bet you can make it work based on my experience with these manifolds.

HydroStream6

iTrader: (16)

I love my E90! Definitely invest in the JB4, you won't regret it. I just ordered all new brakes for her. The E90 brakes are worlds better than the stock GTO brakes.

I like how you think with the downpipes on top. That would leave the bottom WIDE open. I'll have to see how it looks once I have the manifolds in hand and start playing around. I got a few leads on a set so should have them in a week or two.

BlwnLs1GTO

iTrader: (12)

Another thing to consider, I was checking out those CX Racing turbo parts on Ebay. They have these cast Stainless elbows with a wastegate mounting flange and a T4 flange. They might have a T3 flange available. The merging from the piping to the T4 flange along with the wastegate flange and routing was the hardest part of the build. You might be able to incorporate these into your build making it much faster, cleaner and uniform?

HydroStream6

iTrader: (16)

Yup I saw those too! I like them. Makes things easier.

What about a pair of these beauties? Look to be the same as what you're running pretty much. Just still worry about spool with my stick car.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-P...19.m1438.l2649

BlwnLs1GTO

iTrader: (12)

Those look pretty similar to mine, but with the Billet compressor. It says Water cooled but I don't see provisions for this in the pictures. I'd stay away from water cooled, but that's just me. It adds two more jobs to your build. Check on that with the seller.

They're T4 with the .68 housings, too. Very close to the pair I'm running.

How much power are you looking to run 90% of the time? Street or Track?

HydroStream6

iTrader: (16)

Yea I noticed the water cooling statement as well. The turbo is journal bearing, so even if it did have the water provisions, I could just plug them.

I'd like the car to be capable of 150mph in the 1/4, but I don't plan on dragging it. My last GTO made 706rwhp through an auto on my buddy's dyno and went 145mph. So I'm figuring 850rwhp would be a good target for this build. Car will be a street car only. Maybe a 1/2 mile event if something is close-ish.

BlwnLs1GTO

iTrader: (12)

I think that's a reasonable goal for sure. Are you running stock internals?

If not,
What do have going for Heads, Cam, valve train etc... out of curiosity?

HydroStream6

iTrader: (16)

I'm going to find a 2005+ motor eventually and just run the stock internals, stock heads, with a good cam and valvetrain. My last GTO had forged internals but I want to push a stock block with this one. I'll run whatever displacement I find. For now, I'll run the LS1 to get everything going.