72TurboNova

Whats going on LS1Tech, been reading around the forums and decided to post finally about what I am trying to do. I have a lot of questions and hope that I can get some answers or pointed in the right direction.

This will be a track/street car

First, what I plan to do.

Attain 1000RWHP
Single Turbo
E85

Engine
2003 LQ4
Out of a low mileage 2500 that was wrecked from the rear

Currently completed
-Total Seal AP Rings bore 4.005
Top Gap .24
Bottom Gap .26
Oil Ring untouched

-LS7 Lifters
-LS3 Head Gaskets
-Brian Tooley Chromoly One Piece Pushrods; 7.400" Long, 5/16" Diameter, .080" Wall
-Brian Tooley 660" Lift BTR Platinum LS Spring Kit; Titanium Ret., .505" ID .060"
-Brian Tooley Custom Cam
-Billet intake with Fast 102 TB and Holley fuel rails

Coming Soon
-Total Seal Rod and Main Bearings
-ARP Connecting Rod Bolts
-ARP Head Studs
-Precision Turbo PT7675 76mm T4 tangential .96 AR with 3 5/8 vband discharge
-Jakes Performance Stage 3 TH400 Rebuild kit for transmission, revers shift pattern with manual valve body and brake
-Circle D 258MM Converter with 3600 stall

Need some advise on these areas...
Fuel delivery
- What line should I run?
- What Pump should I run?
- Should I run 1 or 2 pumps or run 1 pump with pulsing ground

Turbo Headers any suggestions on this?

Water pump? Electric or direct replacement?


I am excited about what I have completed so far but have a way to go. I am open to any suggestions and/or criticism.

slocaddy

Water pump, stock unless electric lends to giving you more space for something.

Fuel system.....so many ways......since you say street use also, two pumps, one by Hobbs switch, 1/2" line to the boost referenced regulator of your choice.
I say two pumps because most of the time you will run in one, because you can't always reach full boost in stop and go traffic..............

3 window

iTrader: (1)

Agreed with slocaddy. How much boost do you plan on running? Kind of important. The gen 3 6.0 wouldn’t be my choice unless you’re putting rods in it. Go gen 4, skip the rod bolts or aftermarket altogether (pistons and rods). ARPs in a gen 3 rod is pointless. A billet intake is going to be huge money and unnecessary. An appropriate sized header would be nice, but I think there are cases where truck manifolds made 1000. Not sure that turbo would be up to snuff, but I could be wrong. Not to be rude, but can the rest of the car handle 1000 at the wheels? That’s around 1250 horse at the crank. That’s a lot! None of this is meant to be demeaning, just trying to bring some points to light.

72TurboNova

3 window, not demeaning at all. I appreciate the feedback. I have spoken to some folks at the track about their builds as well as what the 6.0 can handle with stock internals with some updates such as ARP head studs. They all felt I could reach my goals but they also feel the Turbo may not be quite enough but we shall see.... if I can make 900 I am not going to complain... I am going to be running this car in a 8.50 class (1/4 mile) so that should do me just fine.

I will be pushing between 15 to 20 lbs of boost.
I have a built rear end strange axles as well as drive train that can handle 1300 RWHP so hoping that it will hold the power I want to make.

I have a 12 point cage in the car now.

I have heard both sides to replace the rods and also people have said not to worry.... I know the Gen 4 are a bit beefier but is there anything else? Are they fractured like my Gen 3?

3 window

iTrader: (1)

The gen 4 rods are fractured also. Sounds like a solid setup. 900 might not be enough to swing 8.50s unless you’re light, but it’ll scoot none-the-less. Here’s a shot of a gen 3 vs gen 4 rod.
WAAAY different. I’d be more worried about breaking an oem piston than a rod bolt.

72TurboNova

3 window i appreciate it and i agree would rather break an OEM piston than rod bolt. That would make for a bad night if that were to go down. I am going to look into those Gen 4 rods.

3 window

iTrader: (1)

Well worth it IMO. Good luck with the build. Keep us posted.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

The Wallace calculator says it takes 950rwhp to push my Nova to 154 mph.
I am a ways from 8.50. It’s around 3450 with me in it.

You will need something on the order of 160 lb/hour injectors. I run Holley pumps. Many folks hate them....

What ECU are you planning on?

Ron

roastin240

iTrader: (13)

You wont make 1000rwhp with a 7675 on 15-20 lbs of boost.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

I agree with this as well.

72TurboNova

I will be running my stock ECU at first.... just to get it rolling. 1000RWHP is my goal but I Will most likely be going to Holley Dominator and or just use HP tuners

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Thanks.
Stock ecu works fine. I’m running one and do my own tuning.
Requires high impedance injectors as I’m sure you know and they get really spendy.

It’s the pay me now or pay me later plan! Ha

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Why does everyone think they need 1000rwhp? And then try and achieve it on a Mac and Cheese budget?

I'd suggest you set serious ET/MPH goals and work backwards from there. Yes, I saw you said an 8.50 class - but that doesn't account for tire and/or chassis limitations.

OP, quadruple your expected expenses and then add 50% - that is what you are going to need for a chance at 1000hp at the wheels reliably in a "street/strip" car.

soloman369

iTrader: (13)

I agree with the post above.

You say you want 1000hp get that out of your head dyno are just for numbers, But you have goal of 154mph stick with that instead of dyno numbers.

Like also mentioned above your going to need a bigger t4 turbo than what you plan on using, a 84mm t4 billet should get you there.

rpturbo

iTrader: (47)

That 154mph was mentioned by Ron, not the OP.

But yeah, I agree. Who cares what it dynos, what do you wan it to run, and at what weight ?

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

I never dyno'd mine even though I was a dyno operator.
Dyno is an indicator, nothing more.

But quit being hard on the OP. 8.50 is the goal, so you work to get there.
It's my new goal for next year.

Ron

Byrdman11

iTrader: (2)

The turbo is to small. That engine will be 3:1 before you know it. Cheapest turbo out to do the job is Billet 80 or 84 with a 96m turbine

slocaddy

Because a 1k hp is bad *** mang.
(Want it too)......

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

I am by no means an expert here and there are many more with more knowledge than I have. I also come here for advice from those that know. But I did what your doing myself.

My truck started as a street/strip truck. Turned into a race truck thats street legal. most of it anyway.

I built my LQ4 with the same goals. Here is my experience so far. And no, I do not feel you will reach 1000rwhp on that turbo. Most stock bottom ends don't like to get over about 975whp so your tune and build needs to be perfect, based on all the info I could read when I built mine. They are a time bomb at that level.

My Gen4 stock bottom end built. BW S482 turbo "bed mounted in an S10 ", Air to Water IC with IAT around 55-65 depending on the outside temps. I made 700rhwp at 13psi. This is also through a powerglide. Your TH400 is going to rob you of even more power. I eventually got to 20psi but never really had it tuned perfectly and chased many problems.

Your lifters will most likely fail on you. I ran Morel 5315 lifters which are supposed to be better than LS7 and they collapsed due to the pressures to open the exhaust valves. I am not running Johnson 2116lsr lifters which will hold all I can afford to throw at them. This is based on talking to Johnson about the build.

I ran BTR .080 5/16 pushrods and they were flexing causing the valves to start bouncing at max effort and over 6k rpm. It also mushroomed the tops of my exhaust valves which were Manley severe duty. I now run Manton 3/8 stage 5 pushods which will again, take anything I throw at them. And also have new valves, the same Manleys.

I am guessing I was making about 850-900rwhp and the end of the engine did not take long. I was flexing the crank, spun all 4 center rods and all 3 center mains, also cracked a center main cap.

I ran Bosch 80lb injectors, dual Bosch 044 fuel pumps with the second pump coming on at 6psi on C14 race gas and was at 95% DC at 20psi and about 66-6800rpm

My engine is now at H Squared Race engines in Houston being built again. K1 crank and rods, Wiseco boost pistons. ARP main studs. I have gone to a better intake sheetmetal type, 120lb injectors and will go to a better fuel. My S482 is rated at 1250hp but that is with the perfect build and pipe setup I'm sure. My piping inst perfect due to the bed mount. I am hoping for 1200 crank for now which gets me to 1000 to 1050whp. Ill be looking for another turbo later.

Bottom line, I wouldn't try to do this on a budget or with stock bottom end parts. Go ahead and spend the money now because you will most likely be spending it sooner than you think anyway. And spending it now could save other parts that would be damaged with a bad enough engine failure, like lifters, heads, valves ect.

Good luck.

KillerKustums

I have to ask, why is the genlll red offset like that or am I looking at it wrong?