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Well made some pulls! Super fat afr bouncing from 9.5-10.3, 11* @ peak tq tapering up to 13*. Car feels great, pulls real good for being so soft. 4th pull in it blew through 2nd gear :/ glad I was going to rebuild it anyways when i did the trans brake
Well rebuilt the trans, put the brake in. I was setting pin length on the rear servo and I can’t get it to engage correctly, I added 1/8 to the pin and fully compressed I can’t stop the output shaft. So I tore it back apart thinking the band wasn’t placed correctly. It was in place and looked good. Same band, drum, and pin that was in this trans that worked fine. So I don’t know what to think. I’m going to pick up a new band tomorrow and put it in. Was hoping to have the car back on the road today. Damn it.
Here is a log shot from my 3rd pull right bore it torched the trans. Looks like t builds boost quick.
Well rebuilt the trans, put the brake in. I was setting pin length on the rear servo and I can’t get it to engage correctly, I added 1/8 to the pin and fully compressed I can’t stop the output shaft. So I tore it back apart thinking the band wasn’t placed correctly. It was in place and looked good. Same band, drum, and pin that was in this trans that worked fine. So I don’t know what to think. I’m going to pick up a new band tomorrow and put it in. Was hoping to have the car back on the road today. Damn it.
Here is a log shot from my 3rd pull right bore it torched the trans. Looks like t builds boost quick.
Why would you put an old band in a fresh transmission? It's only $20.
Because my kit didn’t come with one, the rear bands in these are rarely bad, and the trans was perfectly fine it came out of. I didn’t rebuild the one that blew through second, I had another one sitting here that was good. I’m pretty certain a new band isn’t going to fix what the problem is, but if it makes you feel any better I’m taking all these used clutches from this trans and putting them into the one hat blew through second and putting it back into my wife’s 73
Turns out I was incorrectly told that the output would stop when the band is applied, it does not stop, only gets harder as it’s now going through the planets. So everything was perfect and I torn it back apart for nothing. Yay me.
Had to work a bunch of overtime the last couple days so I’m just now getting the trans back in. It’s back in and all buttoned up, going to do a little more work on the bottom of the car before I take it back out, check out all my suspension, etc. I was invited to a cash days event in a few weeks so I’ve gotta get it out!
Got the Viking double adjustable shocks put back in, set the rear compression at 10 and rebound at 4, and I’ll go from there. Just gotta wire up the trans brake and go play with it some, so what it wants. Really hoping I can make 10# on the brake and stick it on the street.
New tranny works perfect! Put about 20 miles on it today, then tried the brake out. With the stock cam and stock 2500hd stall, I can reach 2600rpm in 3 seconds, and 110.4kpa. That’s with 16* of timing, and a 12.02 afr, so there is room to improve in the timing to see if I can get more boost out of it.
So I’ve got a cam here from my turbo iroc, custom grind for a 5.7 with a single 78/75 billet turbo.
228/234 .612/.612 on a 114 ls1, I’m wanting to put that in down the road, but it’s oretty large and I don’t want to great any back pressure problems. I know Happel had similar turbos and had some issues making good power and I think it was blamed on his cam shaft being to large, so I’m curious how his would work. I would think twin t3 with dual 3” fender exits would have less back pressure than one t4 with single 3.5” exhaust, but I’m no turbo expert.
One thing I learned the hard way with a 4L80e, don't keep the shifter in Drive and hammer the throttle, forcing the trans to downshift to 2nd gear while wide open. If the shifter is in drive, the overrun clutches aren't engaged. I ended up toasting my trans this way. Always keep the shifter in 3rd while going wide open, especially if its going to downshift on its own under power.
One thing I learned the hard way with a 4L80e, don't keep the shifter in Drive and hammer the throttle, forcing the trans to downshift to 2nd gear while wide open. If the shifter is in drive, the overrun clutches aren't engaged. I ended up toasting my trans this way. Always keep the shifter in 3rd while going wide open, especially if its going to downshift on its own under power.
good to know thank you! With the D1 brake you aren’t supposed to do manual 2-1 shifts either
Well I tried out the new tune to aid with spooling. Bumped afr to 13.0, timing to 29*, and it didn’t help at all. So used the vcm scanner and controlled absolute timing and on the brake and 2 step, I dropped timing from 30* all the way to zero degrees, and it made no difference. Below 10 it started to get worse. Checked the gates, they aren’t opening, so that’s ruled out.
im looking into the iat mod but I feel like I ruled that out with the vcm scanner test?
Alsongot my catch can mounted. Will change to black hose when I get a chance
Holy ****. Just took the car out and launched it and I must say I am very impressed. Left on 2#, car instant spooled when I let go of the button, I mean zero lag. It was like the car had 8# (what it’s set too) on the launch, dead hooked and pulled the nose to the top of the shocks and was just flat out gone. Didn’t realize it untill after but it was spinning on the shifts, spiked 15mph on the 2-3 shift. Man I am incredibly amazed given it’s stock cam and converter, pulled hard all the way to the 6500 shift points. And then it threw a belt when I let out. So I need to figure out why. But I am floored. I grabbed my brand spanking new go pro 5 black 4K to get a video, and of course it was dead. So fml. Stay tuned 😍
06-02-2018, 08:13 PM
