Turbo bolts question.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: OKC
Turbo bolts question. Hey guys, I checked some FAQ and searched, so I could have over looked this...
Im running a log style manifold w/ a T4 flange and a VS racing billet 78/75 turbo. What bolt size and length is typically used to attach the turbo to the manifold? Also, does anyone know the size for attaching the oil feed and drain flanges to the turbo?
Thanks!
Im running a log style manifold w/ a T4 flange and a VS racing billet 78/75 turbo. What bolt size and length is typically used to attach the turbo to the manifold? Also, does anyone know the size for attaching the oil feed and drain flanges to the turbo?
Thanks!
search for something like "10mm T3 & T4 Turbo M10 Inconel Stud Hardware Kit"
"Stud torque spec: 38 Nm +/- 3 Nm
Nut torque spec: Low Limit: 60 Nm / Upper Limit: 130 Nm (95 ft/lbs) after snug tighten to 30 Nm (in sequence)
By using 1.5 (standard pitch) on the manifold side and 1.25 (fine pitch) on the turbo side, the standard pitch thread will stay put in the manifold while the fine pitch 1.25 inconel nut will be easy to remove without dislodging/unthreading the stud from the flange. This works perfectly with your existing turbo manifolds which typically use 3/8-16 hardware (the old industry standard) – all you need to do is run a 10mm x 1.5 tap through the old 3/8-16 threads to chase them and it works perfectly."
"Stud torque spec: 38 Nm +/- 3 Nm
Nut torque spec: Low Limit: 60 Nm / Upper Limit: 130 Nm (95 ft/lbs) after snug tighten to 30 Nm (in sequence)
By using 1.5 (standard pitch) on the manifold side and 1.25 (fine pitch) on the turbo side, the standard pitch thread will stay put in the manifold while the fine pitch 1.25 inconel nut will be easy to remove without dislodging/unthreading the stud from the flange. This works perfectly with your existing turbo manifolds which typically use 3/8-16 hardware (the old industry standard) – all you need to do is run a 10mm x 1.5 tap through the old 3/8-16 threads to chase them and it works perfectly."
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 239
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Kingtalon - seems a little over kill using inconel doesn’t it?
OP - if your on a budget slap some anti-seize on some zinc 3/8 bolts with either all metal lock nuts or flanged nuts with serrations on them or use some nordlock washers on some smooth flanged nuts.
OP - if your on a budget slap some anti-seize on some zinc 3/8 bolts with either all metal lock nuts or flanged nuts with serrations on them or use some nordlock washers on some smooth flanged nuts.
Its only $50, $50 is nothing, and those nuts/studs are arguably the most taxed in the entire build.
Less a question of saving $25 and more a question of using the best possible hardware for peanuts.
Less a question of saving $25 and more a question of using the best possible hardware for peanuts.
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9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
Use plain and simple mild steel.
Stainless is a **** if it catches and galls up and you need to cut anything free. There should be almost no stress on those bolts at all other than holding the turbo from moving which for 4 bolts....is no work at all.
A locking style nut is always a good idea though, interference style.
as for inconel bolts.....wise the **** up.
Stainless is a **** if it catches and galls up and you need to cut anything free. There should be almost no stress on those bolts at all other than holding the turbo from moving which for 4 bolts....is no work at all.
A locking style nut is always a good idea though, interference style.
as for inconel bolts.....wise the **** up.
$50 is nothing. I don't see why its such a big deal, using high quality fasteners, I prefer to overkill wherever possible.
I want 100k out of them and I don't need to worry 8 years down the road. I know somebody patching up cracks in their 10 year old mild steel setup.
Not trying to be that guy.
I want 100k out of them and I don't need to worry 8 years down the road. I know somebody patching up cracks in their 10 year old mild steel setup.
Not trying to be that guy.
$50 that can be better spent elsewhere. like at the strip club.
they're ****** bolts dude get a grip
and hell yeah i wanna be that guy patching up cracks in my ten year old hotside. that's ******* awesome to get 10 years out of anything these days.
they're ****** bolts dude get a grip
and hell yeah i wanna be that guy patching up cracks in my ten year old hotside. that's ******* awesome to get 10 years out of anything these days.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 531
Likes: 5
Jet Nut/Copper Slip HI ALL, MY first Pantera Twin Turbo KIT included head/manifold EX STUDS AND
ALL S/S hardware. (circa 1973)
The Exhaust studs were 3/8" coarse on the head with the manifold size of 3/8" fine.
The HOT side used "long shank" 3/8" 24 bolt/nut of stainless steel, common grade, to connect the Snail to the Manifold.
AL bolts/nuts/studs were coated with Jet Nut in the thread area.
THIS bit of "tech" is STANDARD for an A/P mechanic.
My customers report to this day, no problems with bolt breakage.
SO I ASK : What material is your head/manifold stud and size ?
Lance
ALL S/S hardware. (circa 1973)
The Exhaust studs were 3/8" coarse on the head with the manifold size of 3/8" fine.
The HOT side used "long shank" 3/8" 24 bolt/nut of stainless steel, common grade, to connect the Snail to the Manifold.
AL bolts/nuts/studs were coated with Jet Nut in the thread area.
THIS bit of "tech" is STANDARD for an A/P mechanic.
My customers report to this day, no problems with bolt breakage.
SO I ASK : What material is your head/manifold stud and size ?
Lance
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Norn Iron
And not one single OEM fitment use inconel for their bolts, and their vehicles will do more miles than anything you ever dream of building.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
And as for longevity etc...I'm sure pretty much every user here doesnt give a damn about a single build lasting for 200k...which regular steel bolts will do anyway.
Because who here would actually build it once and never touch it again for 200k....100k....50k !! None, everyone is always continually modifying and making changes.
This isnt a forum for cars that are never touched or modified.
Because who here would actually build it once and never touch it again for 200k....100k....50k !! None, everyone is always continually modifying and making changes.
This isnt a forum for cars that are never touched or modified.