Looking to hit about 900 rwhp
I'd put better than a compstar crank in it with a big procharger if it were me. Some searching around will show them broken in those examples. It's not a power deal either, it's the stress the blower puts on the crank. Not saying it will happen for sure, but the risk is greatly increased with those applications.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...lications.html
Source. The dragonslayer is substantially better than a compstar crank as well.
Source. The dragonslayer is substantially better than a compstar crank as well.
Everyone is so critical of how someone else does things...lol. There are some good points being made and at that power level there are sure to be some issues along the way. It looks like all the parts are already bought so he might as well run what he’s got.
Im going to guess 800ish rwhp through the auto though.
Im going to guess 800ish rwhp through the auto though.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 78
Likes: 1
From: El Paso TX
Originally Posted by Sundevils05
not a stock ls1 block this a a custom build 383 stroker block from SDRC ...pulled that stock block out aitting in the garage
Awesome build. Good call swapping the worm gear clamps up front.
I popped the charge pipe off two different times @ 17psi doing highway pulls on one of my builds. The second time was during a random run, which was super embarrassing and pissed me off. Ordered a cheapo amazon t-clamp that same day and it never popped again.
I popped the charge pipe off two different times @ 17psi doing highway pulls on one of my builds. The second time was during a random run, which was super embarrassing and pissed me off. Ordered a cheapo amazon t-clamp that same day and it never popped again.
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Maybe more injectors, an use T-Bolt clamps., My 4L60e has held for many years with about that same combo u gettin. Not thinking u going to do over 750 HP. depends on dyno but if dyno accurate , less than 750HP.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 78
Likes: 1
From: El Paso TX
I went bigger cu, larger custom blower cam, added water/meth and swapped to 4” front mount intercooler and swapped to the F1A. I should be running 15-18lbs of boost with a 4” pulley...I better hit over 750 or my feelings are about to be hurt haha
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 168
Likes: 14
Most worm clamps are such garbage. So many of those worm clamps use a cheap garbage screw, even when they are supposedly "stainless", and end up getting rusty and cruddy over time. I used to use worm clamps on my pressure tester kit for welding up I/C pipes until I almost broke my shop radio from the end cap blowing off, now I don't even use them for that. Not saying it can't be done with the right bead or lip on the pipe, but why bother when T bolts aren't that expensive and provide at least twice as much surface area of clamping force.
Guys like to rip on the 60e but there ARE a lot of guys running them at high power levels in hard hooking cars with no issues when built by the right people. I feel like a lot of times in the LS world, if enough people blew stock versions of something up, guys just write it off as junk. You also see a lot of guys throwing 60e's from their local builder in cars and blowing them up at half the rated HP level because the builder didn't know what the hell they were doing. I'm a fan of the 60e, I had one in a 3900lb procharged/LT1 caprice at over 600whp and have seen them built by reputabile builders dip deep into the 9's in 4200+ lb B bodies. I still don't know if I'd bother using one for 800+ WHP though.
I'm going to go out on a limb and say 850whp. I think the F1 could make the steam, you have a few cubic inches on your side and with enough meth sprayed into it, anything is possible LOL Those may not be monster heads but it's nothing more boost can't fix. I can't see it not making the power with enough boost, how it will hold up on that block I have no idea.
Guys like to rip on the 60e but there ARE a lot of guys running them at high power levels in hard hooking cars with no issues when built by the right people. I feel like a lot of times in the LS world, if enough people blew stock versions of something up, guys just write it off as junk. You also see a lot of guys throwing 60e's from their local builder in cars and blowing them up at half the rated HP level because the builder didn't know what the hell they were doing. I'm a fan of the 60e, I had one in a 3900lb procharged/LT1 caprice at over 600whp and have seen them built by reputabile builders dip deep into the 9's in 4200+ lb B bodies. I still don't know if I'd bother using one for 800+ WHP though.
I'm going to go out on a limb and say 850whp. I think the F1 could make the steam, you have a few cubic inches on your side and with enough meth sprayed into it, anything is possible LOL Those may not be monster heads but it's nothing more boost can't fix. I can't see it not making the power with enough boost, how it will hold up on that block I have no idea.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
If you choose **** worm drives, then you're as likely to buy **** t-bolts.
Again the only fault there lies with the user for choosing **** or doing poor work. And you do not need huge clamping force, that's exactly how idiots damage pipes then still blow pipes off and then still blame the clamps !
Again the only fault there lies with the user for choosing **** or doing poor work. And you do not need huge clamping force, that's exactly how idiots damage pipes then still blow pipes off and then still blame the clamps !
So.... what block is? If it's a 383 aluminum block I would assume it would use a stock ls1/6 block with a 4" crank right? I'm not trying to say it's going to explode on your first pull but the thin ls1 sleeves are known to split with boost. It may last forever and that's awesome but if it doesn't atleast you know why.
Last edited by ddnspider; Aug 22, 2018 at 07:38 PM.
I think you will land around 750 and 650 TQ. My combo was better than yours in places and inferior in others. On a SAFE 93 tune with Alky Control as insurance only mine would go 750 to 770 like clockwork, Best of 816 without an air cleaner in decent air.. M6, AC and a 9" just like it was driven. No special BS for glory numbers or ideal weather conditions. 370" F1C, AFR 225s. LS6, ID1000s, Twin 4.5s and Cheap FMIC same power,
A new F1A might be better than an older F1C. There was nothing wrong with mine but I seriously considered changing to a F1A94 instead of turbo to gain a little air filter room. Ultimately I went 76/75 turbo because apparently I like doing stuff over and over. I actually don't expect much more power out of mine due to the 80 switch going on as well but the torque curve ought to be better.
A new F1A might be better than an older F1C. There was nothing wrong with mine but I seriously considered changing to a F1A94 instead of turbo to gain a little air filter room. Ultimately I went 76/75 turbo because apparently I like doing stuff over and over. I actually don't expect much more power out of mine due to the 80 switch going on as well but the torque curve ought to be better.