Looking to hit about 900 rwhp
For the sake of numbers I’m looking to hit around/close to 900 ish rwhp on my current build below are the list of mods we just sold off the D1SC and upgraded to the F1A 8rib front mount with a 4” pulley and 7.65 crank pulley. Should I stick with the 4” pulley or do I need to go with a 3.90 or 3.80?? Anyone run a similar set up or have a rough idea of what to expect? Everything listed is already here and we are installing now.
Boosted 383 stroker Aluminum Shortblock
Wiseco Forged pistons
H 1.0 beam rods w/ arp2000 rod bolts
Callis compstar forged 4340 crankshaft,
ARP main stud kit
PRC stg 2.5 heads
Brian Tooley custom blower cam 237/252 115lsa ICL 110, .660” rocker ratio w/ trunion upgrade
Snow Performance meth kit stg 4 dual nozzle
Procharger F1-A
Brute Speed Aster mount w/ 8rib kit
4.0 pulley
4” front mount 1300hp intercooler
G1Pro intake manifold
95mm Holley EFI throttle body
Walbro dual pump 450 LPH pump gas
Injector dynamics 750 injectors
Racetronix fuel rail / system monitor
Upgraded fuel lines 8an out / 6an return
Kooks long tube wrapped headers
Kooks green catalytic converters
True dual exhaust
Brute speed custom driveshaft
Hawks 8.8 custom fab rear end 33spline
3:73 gears
3400 YANK anti balloon power adder series
RPM STG 7 VII 4L60e upgraded 1/2gear ratio
SubFrame connector weld in
Adjustable chrome-moly torque arm
Adjustable LCA
Pan hard bar
KYB Adjustable gas shock/struts
315/30/18 Hoosier DR2
Last edited by Sundevils05; Jun 20, 2018 at 04:04 PM.
the injectors are from my previous setup with the D1SC was hoping I wouldn’t have to upgrade just yet I have NO IDEA why I didn’t order the ID1000. Dumb move on my part they cost the same as the 725’s
Last edited by Sundevils05; Jun 19, 2018 at 02:13 PM.
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I've seen idiots squash stainless steel tubing from overtightening t-bolt clamps. You can just get idiots everywhere that can **** things up.
But for low boost stuff there is simply no need for t-bolt clamps. And some t-bolts are pure ***** to start with.
Once into larger diameter like the 4" a t-bolt can become more appropriate simply due to the forces involved but as long as pipe prep is good with a decent lip/bead, a good worm drive will still be fine ( I use Breeze constant torque clamps )
have had the worm style slip. Most important is a lip of some sort around each pipe
so it cant pull out. I wish my garage floor (or my kitchen, lol) was as clean as your garage.
A lot of people still hate on the 4l60e but if it’s built right, kept cool it will definitely withstand. RPM has has gotten a few 4l60e into consistent high 8 low 9s. I’m not too worried about it. I’ve added a few precautions such as ATI Flexplate and larger tanny cooler with a deep aluminum pan & proper gauge set up to monitor heat it should do great with the upgraded 1: 2 gear ratios.
Last edited by Sundevils05; Jun 20, 2018 at 09:42 AM.











