ignition control for blow through
ignition control for blow through Okay, maybe im over thinking this
I currently have a high compression nitrous assisted 5.3
I am putting together a forged 6.0 that will have twin 70 or 76's on it
My question right now is in regards to timing control
I get in a fuel injected engine you reference the map sensor and control timing based on the amount of boost the engine sees
I plan to run in the neighborhood of 20-30 pounds of boost. My ignition controller i believe can only work with a 1 bar sensor.
does that mean that i need a new controller? Or will a 3 bar sensor work with the controller i have? the controller i am running is a Daytona Digital Smart Spark
Or in a carb situation is it really not taht important and you just set your total timing to what you want it with full boost and let it ramp up to that from idle?
Thanks
Steve
I currently have a high compression nitrous assisted 5.3
I am putting together a forged 6.0 that will have twin 70 or 76's on it
My question right now is in regards to timing control
I get in a fuel injected engine you reference the map sensor and control timing based on the amount of boost the engine sees
I plan to run in the neighborhood of 20-30 pounds of boost. My ignition controller i believe can only work with a 1 bar sensor.
does that mean that i need a new controller? Or will a 3 bar sensor work with the controller i have? the controller i am running is a Daytona Digital Smart Spark
Or in a carb situation is it really not taht important and you just set your total timing to what you want it with full boost and let it ramp up to that from idle?
Thanks
Steve
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
There are dozens of options.
Ultimately your controller doesnt really give a **** what map sensor you use ( I guess unless it's onboard and not easily changed )...all it sees is a 0-5v signal. So whether that covers 0-1bar or 0-3 bar doesnt matter.
Now the software you use to control timing may have tables scaled as 0-1 bar and you may or may not be able to change that scaling. But eve if you cannot, it doesnt mean you couldnt just throw on a 3 bar map sensor and use it. The numbers on your table may fall in the "wrong" place and you would need to check to see where on your tables relates to whatever pressures you will be using, but it would still be perfectly usable as long as you understand this and tune accordingly.
Or at the cheaper end you could throw on the likes of a microsquirt and just use all the features except fuel injection.
Or same applies to any ecu, IMO it may be worth choosing something better that also has datalogging as that's worth having too.
Ultimately your controller doesnt really give a **** what map sensor you use ( I guess unless it's onboard and not easily changed )...all it sees is a 0-5v signal. So whether that covers 0-1bar or 0-3 bar doesnt matter.
Now the software you use to control timing may have tables scaled as 0-1 bar and you may or may not be able to change that scaling. But eve if you cannot, it doesnt mean you couldnt just throw on a 3 bar map sensor and use it. The numbers on your table may fall in the "wrong" place and you would need to check to see where on your tables relates to whatever pressures you will be using, but it would still be perfectly usable as long as you understand this and tune accordingly.
Or at the cheaper end you could throw on the likes of a microsquirt and just use all the features except fuel injection.
Or same applies to any ecu, IMO it may be worth choosing something better that also has datalogging as that's worth having too.
There are dozens of options.
Ultimately your controller doesnt really give a **** what map sensor you use ( I guess unless it's onboard and not easily changed )...all it sees is a 0-5v signal. So whether that covers 0-1bar or 0-3 bar doesnt matter.
Now the software you use to control timing may have tables scaled as 0-1 bar and you may or may not be able to change that scaling. But eve if you cannot, it doesnt mean you couldnt just throw on a 3 bar map sensor and use it. The numbers on your table may fall in the "wrong" place and you would need to check to see where on your tables relates to whatever pressures you will be using, but it would still be perfectly usable as long as you understand this and tune accordingly.
Or at the cheaper end you could throw on the likes of a microsquirt and just use all the features except fuel injection.
Or same applies to any ecu, IMO it may be worth choosing something better that also has datalogging as that's worth having too.
Ultimately your controller doesnt really give a **** what map sensor you use ( I guess unless it's onboard and not easily changed )...all it sees is a 0-5v signal. So whether that covers 0-1bar or 0-3 bar doesnt matter.
Now the software you use to control timing may have tables scaled as 0-1 bar and you may or may not be able to change that scaling. But eve if you cannot, it doesnt mean you couldnt just throw on a 3 bar map sensor and use it. The numbers on your table may fall in the "wrong" place and you would need to check to see where on your tables relates to whatever pressures you will be using, but it would still be perfectly usable as long as you understand this and tune accordingly.
Or at the cheaper end you could throw on the likes of a microsquirt and just use all the features except fuel injection.
Or same applies to any ecu, IMO it may be worth choosing something better that also has datalogging as that's worth having too.
How well do the "4-barrel" throttle bodies work?
Or is it better off with a stock style intake?
Thanks
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 249
Likes: 36
From: Pennsylvania
I use the Daytona sensors box with a blow through carb set up...... you must choose a 1, 2 or 3 bar map in one of the drop down boxes.. it’s very simple to use and can run up to 30 lb of boost... Please do not just throw in a map sensor in and run it.... the Daytona sensors box most definitely cares what map sensor you are running and it gives you the options to choose.... if you choose a two bar you only have enough cells to adjust timing to 15lb..... 3 bar gives you cells to adjust to 30lb of boost... if you want to have it set up call dennis from smartspark and he will get you started.....
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
I use the Daytona sensors box with a blow through carb set up...... you must choose a 1, 2 or 3 bar map in one of the drop down boxes.. it’s very simple to use and can run up to 30 lb of boost... Please do not just throw in a map sensor in and run it.... the Daytona sensors box most definitely cares what map sensor you are running and it gives you the options to choose.... if you choose a two bar you only have enough cells to adjust timing to 15lb..... 3 bar gives you cells to adjust to 30lb of boost... if you want to have it set up call dennis from smartspark and he will get you started.....
You lose resolution, but not the ability to do timing for boost.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
You said you were blow through ? That implies carb...so why are you asking about stock manifolds or 4 barrel throttle bodies ?
I just said that if for any reason you could not work with the current ignition setup you have, you could just move to an EFI ecu/system....but without actually doinf fuel injection. Just use it for sparks/logging etc and retain the carb as you have.
IGN-8 + Intake GMPP Hi Steve, I manufacture the IGN-8-LS Ignition Controller for "blow through carbe" applications.
I would specify the 4 Bar MAP sensor version as the MAP sensor is board mounted.
The controller has many features, Boost retard AND two GPIO's for controlling things like Water Injection.
You will also REQUIRE high output Ignition Coils, the IGN-1A-LS kit will work fine.
Would you like more information ?
Lance
I would specify the 4 Bar MAP sensor version as the MAP sensor is board mounted.
The controller has many features, Boost retard AND two GPIO's for controlling things like Water Injection.
You will also REQUIRE high output Ignition Coils, the IGN-1A-LS kit will work fine.
Would you like more information ?
Lance
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You said you were blow through ? That implies carb...so why are you asking about stock manifolds or 4 barrel throttle bodies ?
I just said that if for any reason you could not work with the current ignition setup you have, you could just move to an EFI ecu/system....but without actually doinf fuel injection. Just use it for sparks/logging etc and retain the carb as you have.
I just said that if for any reason you could not work with the current ignition setup you have, you could just move to an EFI ecu/system....but without actually doinf fuel injection. Just use it for sparks/logging etc and retain the carb as you have.
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Verdad Gallardo 9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
If you're starting with nothing, EFI will have many benefits.
If you already have carb and it's working etc....then maybe there isnt the justification for spending the money to go EFI.
A lot will depend what you want to spend.
An ignition only setup could be as cheap as a few hundred dollars all in.
A full EFI system depending on how you do it, could end up with $4-5k in it, although it will depend on goals and budget etc
If you already have carb and it's working etc....then maybe there isnt the justification for spending the money to go EFI.
A lot will depend what you want to spend.
An ignition only setup could be as cheap as a few hundred dollars all in.
A full EFI system depending on how you do it, could end up with $4-5k in it, although it will depend on goals and budget etc
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 249
Likes: 36
From: Pennsylvania
That’s the problem I had when I wanted to go turbo.... I had a carb and the Daytona system already in the car..... so basically all I had to do was get the carb converted to blow-through by CSU, upgrade fuel system and I was good to go.... best way I can explain how it runs is it runs like fuel injection minus the cold start.... other than that it is spot on.... as long as you can change jets and do a few minor things when you up the boost it is a great system.... if you want turn key do EFI and have someone tune it.... I get a lot of hate on the blowthrough on an ls engine but it works plain out works and it’s simple.... Kevin from CSU is the man when it comes to blow through... he set up the carb, it was spot on out of the box and haven’t had to do too many changes as I ramped up the boost.... I’m glad I went that route bc I can tune it my self since I understand the carb... it is a very simple system and you don’t have all the fancy logging capabilities but it works for me... hope this helps good luck
That’s the problem I had when I wanted to go turbo.... I had a carb and the Daytona system already in the car..... so basically all I had to do was get the carb converted to blow-through by CSU, upgrade fuel system and I was good to go.... best way I can explain how it runs is it runs like fuel injection minus the cold start.... other than that it is spot on.... as long as you can change jets and do a few minor things when you up the boost it is a great system.... if you want turn key do EFI and have someone tune it.... I get a lot of hate on the blowthrough on an ls engine but it works plain out works and it’s simple.... Kevin from CSU is the man when it comes to blow through... he set up the carb, it was spot on out of the box and haven’t had to do too many changes as I ramped up the boost.... I’m glad I went that route bc I can tune it my self since I understand the carb... it is a very simple system and you don’t have all the fancy logging capabilities but it works for me... hope this helps good luck
thank you for the info, this brings me to one of the questions i have
I plan on having Kevin do a carb for me either convert mine or a new one
Say you are dialed in at 15psi, and you want to up it to say 25 psi. Will the boost reference regulator be enough extra fuel to cover the increase in PSI or will i have to sit there and change jets everytime i change the boost?
Thansk
If you're starting with nothing, EFI will have many benefits.
If you already have carb and it's working etc....then maybe there isnt the justification for spending the money to go EFI.
A lot will depend what you want to spend.
An ignition only setup could be as cheap as a few hundred dollars all in.
A full EFI system depending on how you do it, could end up with $4-5k in it, although it will depend on goals and budget etc
If you already have carb and it's working etc....then maybe there isnt the justification for spending the money to go EFI.
A lot will depend what you want to spend.
An ignition only setup could be as cheap as a few hundred dollars all in.
A full EFI system depending on how you do it, could end up with $4-5k in it, although it will depend on goals and budget etc
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
But you could still move to a full EFI control ecu to control sparks only and offer other features like say logging, boost control, 2 step etc etc And it would be a stepping stone to full EFI at a later date should you ever decide to.
Or not, but at least a lot of the work/expense would already be done. Just depends if you ever thought you might in the future.
But you could still move to a full EFI control ecu to control sparks only and offer other features like say logging, boost control, 2 step etc etc And it would be a stepping stone to full EFI at a later date should you ever decide to.
Or not, but at least a lot of the work/expense would already be done. Just depends if you ever thought you might in the future.
Or not, but at least a lot of the work/expense would already be done. Just depends if you ever thought you might in the future.
Its been a while since i plugged into my Daytona system i really dont remember how its setup
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 249
Likes: 36
From: Pennsylvania
thank you for the info, this brings me to one of the questions i have
I plan on having Kevin do a carb for me either convert mine or a new one
Say you are dialed in at 15psi, and you want to up it to say 25 psi. Will the boost reference regulator be enough extra fuel to cover the increase in PSI or will i have to sit there and change jets everytime i change the boost?
Thansk
I plan on having Kevin do a carb for me either convert mine or a new one
Say you are dialed in at 15psi, and you want to up it to say 25 psi. Will the boost reference regulator be enough extra fuel to cover the increase in PSI or will i have to sit there and change jets everytime i change the boost?
Thansk