rindoze

iTrader: (1)

So the Boost a Pump module that companies like Kenne Bell sell for $250+ is just stepping up the pump voltage. What stops me from buying a $30 12 - 24v boost converter on Amazon and just adding a relay to trigger it under boost? Am I missing something here or is Kenne Bell just ripping people off because they don't understand simple electronics?

stevieturbo

It does seem someone doesnt understand simple electronics.

But by all means post a link to whatever this magical product is off Amazon

rindoze

iTrader: (1)

Yeah that someone would be you. Here is one of a million boost converters: Not sure why your coming off as a know it all when you don't even know what a boost converter is...

TrendSetter

give it a try and let us know how it goes

JoeNova

You'll need one with more than a 15A rating.

stevieturbo

I've heard people call some stuff some very weird ****....hence why clarity is needed in case you are dreaming up a name for something completely random and nothing like what you think or indeed what others might recognise them as.

I recently came across someone on a forum blabbing he needed a new pressure converter for his car, because his mechanic told him that's why it isnt making boost. Naturally I told him both his mechanic and he was full of ****, there is no such thing. When he provided an image of the part it was the boost control solenoid....which I told him very easily how to test and not to waste money buying **** because his retard mechanic was unable to test...and he went ahead and bought it anyway and it didnt fix anything. And his second mechanic wasnt any better....still dont think his car's going properly. If only people would listen. He's been throwing money at these two morons and his car is still fucked. That angers me a lot that people get ripped off like that !

But as Joe says, most decent pumps will be in the 10-15A range at 12v...continuous duty. Which means when ramping up the voltage to say 24v ( for easy maths ) the unit will need to pull double that from the source supply, so 20-30A

The circuitry in that cheap **** is unlikely to last very long at all...and you would have no means of switching it off/on as and when that extra "boost" is required which is how such devices are normally run on a car. Trying to run the pump at a sustained higher voltage than it was designed will lead to premature failure nevermind the increased loading on the "boost converter" and associated wiring.

Rudy72

iTrader: (2)

the KB Boost-a-pump has only been on the market for Decades..... Solid product that does exactly what it promises.... Go ahead and use china made parts and duplicate you could be onto something Huge!!!

gametech

iTrader: (1)

Boost a pumps from reputable name brands or somebody under a bridge selling you a magic rock are all ****. You should not spend good money to bandaid an inadequate fuel system for any reason. Unless you have free labor and an endless supply of junkyard motors, the fuel system will never cost as much as your first blown engine. Just plumb good wires to an adequate fuel system and leave the boost a "whatevers" to one run dyno queens.

350SS

iTrader: (38)

not trying to be a smart ***... if you double the voltage and the amperage is the pump power (watts) going to be 4x?

JoeNova

You don't feed amperage to a pump, it draws what it needs. If it draws more than the voltage booster is capable of, you'll burn something up. The voltage booster needs to be rated to roughly double the current draw of the pump as a safety measure.
Increasing the voltage on the pump can sometimes lead to increased current draw as well. Increasing fuel pressure also leads to increase current draw.

I'd be more than happy to test something out if you can find it cheap.

gametech

iTrader: (1)

When comparing what I think you are trying to compare, you need to revert back to watts, as you said. However, your thinking on the physics is incorrect. You can vary the voltage OR amperage, but not both with only one change. Hence, you only get double wattage, and not quadruple.

truckdoug

iTrader: (26)

So far I've seen about 50/50 results with the BAP and similar products. For less money you could have two 450's in the tank, one on a hobbs switch.

350SS

iTrader: (38)

right that's what i was trying to point out and in reality it won't be 2 or 4 since the efficiency won't be the same in both cases

gametech

iTrader: (1)

To more properly answer the OP's question, the big difference between a $10 Chinese product and a $250 American product is whether any quality control technicians checked it before it was shipped to you. The lesser difference is whether or not it is checked out to work for your application. You pay a high premium to reliably be able to order a product without wondering if it will wreck your ride.

stevieturbo

As I said, keeping simple maths.

Every setup will be different and pressure will largely dictate how much work the pump has to do.

The point is still the same, with such a device in operation, it will draw more current from source when running the pump at a higher voltage, with it flowing more and certainly under load will typically also be running higher fuel pressures.
How much more current will be a variable, but it will draw more current from source ( although this may not appear as more current at the pump side of the device because of the higher voltage ? )

But if it's doing more work which is the whole point, that power has to come from somewhere.

350SS

iTrader: (38)

yeah, i was hoping to pull out some more knowledge for those of us who don't understand simple electonics haha
something like the flow rate2 = flow rate1 * (sqrt (pressure2 / pressure1))
but for current / voltage

stevieturbo

No doubt there is...but I like simple ! lol

350SS

iTrader: (38)

fuzzy math and unicorn farts... what could go wrong? haha

rindoze

iTrader: (1)

Yes you are correct, if you both double the voltage and the amperage the power is quadrupled. The increased voltage will increase motor speed, and since it is under load sucking fuel this added speed will cause extra resistance in the motor which will cause extra current to be required. If it was spinning in air out of the tank the current draw would remain the same. Now without knowing some of the specifics of the motor itself that increase in current draw can only be guessed, and I will guess it will be more like 25% increased current at 24V. I think I'll probably run it at 20V though, and like I stated before the boost converter can be triggered by a simple relay to cut on when boost starts building. You guys do understand China is making the majority of electronics right? These "American" boost a pumps are probably made in China too, and if it fails who cares, the pump will get just 12V instead of the 24V.

etijsma