My first single turbo build
I posted a new thread about the track outing. Here a link
https://ls1tech.com/forums/racer-s-l...l#post20170564
https://ls1tech.com/forums/racer-s-l...l#post20170564
For this threads sake, I had problems with tuning down low, maybe a convertor issue of not being big enough and some other stupid errors listed in the thread (excuses lol) but I managed a 11.100 at 128mph with a very slow 60ft
I wanted to touch base on my crankcase evac setup. I was thinking about creating a quick thread about it too.
originally my setup was two 3/8 lines going to my catch can, vented to atmosphere. Worked good enough, didn’t like the occasional whiff of oil, but whatever. One line was going to the valve cover and another to the crankcase. I had modified my catch can originally to have a breather filter on top. It used to be hooked to vacuum on the intake manifold. Of course you can do that when boosted. This setup worked fine at the 11-12lbs I was running.
when I put the 5.3 in, I added another fitting to the other valve cover and ran a third 3/8 line to the catch can, still vented to atmosphere. That seemed to work fine up to 14psi but the other day i made a longer pull in third gear. Smelled oil. Popped hood and it had sprayed oil all over under the hood from the dipstick. Oddly it wasn’t popped up. I figured it was time to do what I knew I would have to sooner or later.....run either bigger lines or add a way to put suction on the catch can to draw the air out the crankcase. I decided on sucking air out the crankcase. I work for Honda and our turbo cars have the crankcase vent runs to the air filter box. I deleted the crankcase filter on the catch can, made a grommet and hooked a hose there and ran it to the air filter intake. So far I haven’t smelled oil again and no more oil spray. Check it.
I’m sure my 5.3 has more blowby because of increased ring gaps also.
originally my setup was two 3/8 lines going to my catch can, vented to atmosphere. Worked good enough, didn’t like the occasional whiff of oil, but whatever. One line was going to the valve cover and another to the crankcase. I had modified my catch can originally to have a breather filter on top. It used to be hooked to vacuum on the intake manifold. Of course you can do that when boosted. This setup worked fine at the 11-12lbs I was running.
when I put the 5.3 in, I added another fitting to the other valve cover and ran a third 3/8 line to the catch can, still vented to atmosphere. That seemed to work fine up to 14psi but the other day i made a longer pull in third gear. Smelled oil. Popped hood and it had sprayed oil all over under the hood from the dipstick. Oddly it wasn’t popped up. I figured it was time to do what I knew I would have to sooner or later.....run either bigger lines or add a way to put suction on the catch can to draw the air out the crankcase. I decided on sucking air out the crankcase. I work for Honda and our turbo cars have the crankcase vent runs to the air filter box. I deleted the crankcase filter on the catch can, made a grommet and hooked a hose there and ran it to the air filter intake. So far I haven’t smelled oil again and no more oil spray. Check it.
I’m sure my 5.3 has more blowby because of increased ring gaps also.
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From: Norn Iron
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Monitor to see if you end up with oil in the induction system. If your catch can is working as it should, only vapors should get sucked in. Oil will kill your octane and promote detonation if it ends up in the CC. Never looked for studies on how much oil and octane impact it had.
As reference - I had a stock 5.3 Suburban with 220K. It was worn enough or oil control rings bound up (I should have worked some GM top end cleaner in it) to suck a qt in 750 to 1000 miles if I pushed it hard. Detonation and timing retard was the first thing I'd experience especially when outside air temp was > 95F (Texas). I would run 93 in summer heat to minimize detonation.
As reference - I had a stock 5.3 Suburban with 220K. It was worn enough or oil control rings bound up (I should have worked some GM top end cleaner in it) to suck a qt in 750 to 1000 miles if I pushed it hard. Detonation and timing retard was the first thing I'd experience especially when outside air temp was > 95F (Texas). I would run 93 in summer heat to minimize detonation.
Monitor to see if you end up with oil in the induction system. If your catch can is working as it should, only vapors should get sucked in. Oil will kill your octane and promote detonation if it ends up in the CC. Never looked for studies on how much oil and octane impact it had.
As reference - I had a stock 5.3 Suburban with 220K. It was worn enough or oil control rings bound up (I should have worked some GM top end cleaner in it) to suck a qt in 750 to 1000 miles if I pushed it hard. Detonation and timing retard was the first thing I'd experience especially when outside air temp was > 95F (Texas). I would run 93 in summer heat to minimize detonation.
As reference - I had a stock 5.3 Suburban with 220K. It was worn enough or oil control rings bound up (I should have worked some GM top end cleaner in it) to suck a qt in 750 to 1000 miles if I pushed it hard. Detonation and timing retard was the first thing I'd experience especially when outside air temp was > 95F (Texas). I would run 93 in summer heat to minimize detonation.
yes I plan on looking at the compressor wheel on the turbo after a few days of driving. If I see oil residue, I’ll make changes. I may even go back to a vent but just make sure it flows enough.
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Verdad Gallardo 9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Norn Iron