New Dyno Numbers
07-10-2004, 02:07 AM
#41
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Originally Posted by Fierce-LS1
Can you tell me exactly how much that setup ran you. My lowsy $7500 would not even come close right ? 
07-10-2004, 01:56 PM
#44
PS. Nice ridding with you today. I will admit, I loved the power. He took me on a 15 mile tour and not once was I scared of the car or the driver. I will admit like him, the car deserves much respect and if you do not give it, it will hurt you. We eased into the gas twice and not once did it get away from us. More power than I ever felt riding in Hennessey's twin turbo when Joe worked there. It comes on slow under 25% throttle but you can feel the power. Wonderful driver, just like a stock car. I love taking rides in this car. Bryan, have fun with it this weekend and be careful.
Amber
Amber
07-10-2004, 02:45 PM
#46
Engine Cost Here is an estimate
C5-R Block $6200.00
Moldex Billet Crank 55lbs $3200
Katech Engines Carillo Rods $1200.00
Diamond -20cc Dish Pistons for LS1 $600.00
ATI F1 Blower $2700.00
Jesel Mohawk Shaft Rockers $1000.00
Fuel System from More Performance $1400.00 (Cost is a little high because of the type of fuel lines I used, these were suggested by MP and I approved)
Mezerine Billet Water Pump $600.00
Mark Williams 9" Rear End $4500.00
Mark Williams Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft $1000.00
RC Engineer 72# injectors $800.00 (This company charges too much for these, they can be purchased elsewhere a lot cheaper.)
More Performance Stage 3 heads with 73cc Chamber (You can check their website for pricing)
I can tell you this, this engine is over designed. You can buy cheaper parts, but IMO, you get exactly what you pay for. I do not want to upset anyone when I say this. I seriously thought about the Darton resleeved setup. After speaking with the engineers directly at Darton, at the time I was starting this, they were having overheating problems with the sleeves and were in the process of redesigning the sleeves to solve this.
The C5-R block is not the same material as the stock LS1 block. The C5-R block is a stonger A356 Aluminum that has been heat treated with a level of T7. The only thing that would have been nice that I didn't do, was cryogenically treat all of the parts. This would have been about $1500.00 extra, but it would have made the parts a little stonger. If you have the means I would strongly suggest it, for power of this nature, as every little bit counts. I believe in overdoing everything so it will last. That absolutely does not make anyone else wrong with their choices, this is just the way I wanted it done.
This setup could have been built with Eagle parts. It really doesn't matter, as all are good parts. The difference here is the weight. As the engine is rotating, IMO you want to reduce as much rotating mass as possible. I could have used any number of connecting rods, but the Carillo are the lightest steel rods built that I have ever found and you cannot use Aluminum and Titainium is way to new and untested on the street. Tensile strengh is unknown for a street application for longevity. Had this been ok, I would have gone that route, but they are $335 each. With the lightweight Crank, and super lightweight Connecting rods, and lightweight shaftrockers this helps the engine spin up faster. Along with the Carbon Drive Shaft, and Aluminum Flywheel. It is extremely important that you do not take my word on any of my opinions. I am not an engineer and my information comes from much research not obtained on any forum. I am simply sharing my own personal experience.
The other major unknown here is the tuning. More, even thought they are not finished, they have done a great job.
C5-R Block $6200.00
Moldex Billet Crank 55lbs $3200
Katech Engines Carillo Rods $1200.00
Diamond -20cc Dish Pistons for LS1 $600.00
ATI F1 Blower $2700.00
Jesel Mohawk Shaft Rockers $1000.00
Fuel System from More Performance $1400.00 (Cost is a little high because of the type of fuel lines I used, these were suggested by MP and I approved)
Mezerine Billet Water Pump $600.00
Mark Williams 9" Rear End $4500.00
Mark Williams Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft $1000.00
RC Engineer 72# injectors $800.00 (This company charges too much for these, they can be purchased elsewhere a lot cheaper.)
More Performance Stage 3 heads with 73cc Chamber (You can check their website for pricing)
I can tell you this, this engine is over designed. You can buy cheaper parts, but IMO, you get exactly what you pay for. I do not want to upset anyone when I say this. I seriously thought about the Darton resleeved setup. After speaking with the engineers directly at Darton, at the time I was starting this, they were having overheating problems with the sleeves and were in the process of redesigning the sleeves to solve this.
The C5-R block is not the same material as the stock LS1 block. The C5-R block is a stonger A356 Aluminum that has been heat treated with a level of T7. The only thing that would have been nice that I didn't do, was cryogenically treat all of the parts. This would have been about $1500.00 extra, but it would have made the parts a little stonger. If you have the means I would strongly suggest it, for power of this nature, as every little bit counts. I believe in overdoing everything so it will last. That absolutely does not make anyone else wrong with their choices, this is just the way I wanted it done.
This setup could have been built with Eagle parts. It really doesn't matter, as all are good parts. The difference here is the weight. As the engine is rotating, IMO you want to reduce as much rotating mass as possible. I could have used any number of connecting rods, but the Carillo are the lightest steel rods built that I have ever found and you cannot use Aluminum and Titainium is way to new and untested on the street. Tensile strengh is unknown for a street application for longevity. Had this been ok, I would have gone that route, but they are $335 each. With the lightweight Crank, and super lightweight Connecting rods, and lightweight shaftrockers this helps the engine spin up faster. Along with the Carbon Drive Shaft, and Aluminum Flywheel. It is extremely important that you do not take my word on any of my opinions. I am not an engineer and my information comes from much research not obtained on any forum. I am simply sharing my own personal experience.
The other major unknown here is the tuning. More, even thought they are not finished, they have done a great job.
Originally Posted by Fierce-LS1
Can you tell me exactly how much that setup ran you. My lowsy $7500 would not even come close right ?
07-10-2004, 07:48 PM
#50
Originally Posted by blown98z28!!
Bryan,
were you joking when you said that the intake air temperatures are 90 when it is 100 degrees outside because your air to air intercooler is so efficient?
were you joking when you said that the intake air temperatures are 90 when it is 100 degrees outside because your air to air intercooler is so efficient?
07-10-2004, 08:10 PM
#51
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Nice!
Planning to take it to the track?
Planning to take it to the track?
Here is some disappointing news. I do not plan to take it to the track until next year. let me explain why. As I have watched many people post on this forum, go to the track and not get the numbers that they were expecting. This happened to them for one of several reasons being, not prepared, car not properly tuned, something broke, etc...,
I really want to use beadlock wheels from weld and I want the tune on my car to be absolutely flawless and I want to make sure that I am 100% confident in my driving abilities.
In my second day driving the car, I have gotten on it twice to the point where I could break the tires loose. This is more me being nervous and checking out what the car is capable of.
As an example, I say above me being nervous, that was not the case this afternoon on the way home from MP. We have a semi-beltway running through Charlotte, I was in the far left hand lane, no traffic of any kind driving at 70mph and the tach somewhere around 1700RPM (that is sick in itself.) anyway, in my mirror I notice this white Grand Prix GTP coming up behind me, gaining on me. Again no traffic, and 3 lanes of highway. He comes up behind me gets real close, and suddenly whips to the right then as he passes me in trying to prove something I guess,( Charlotte has lots of stupid young kids like this) cuts abruptly back to the left and almost clips my bumper. In an instant my nervousness was gone, I went from 6th to 4th and exploaded on him like the wrath of GOD. In less than 1.5 car lengths I was over 120 and he was a complete memory as I straight arm waved to him out the window with my finger. (Not that I ever thought it was a problem, but it was the point) Once I was back down to 70(which is an effort in itself) he never tried it again. I am not sure if it was the blowoff valve that scared him or the exhaust. I call it blowby. Basically he pulled up to court with his Grand Prix and the Trans Am seriously dispatch him, "you have been judged" bye bye.
This is so not like me, but man he pissed me off. Every little bit I drive the car I am getting more and more confident. So to finish the question, I want to go to the track and have this car produce the numbers it should. I want to be fully prepared.
I have decied to go ahead with the LSX intake and Throttle, so my 2002 LS6 intake and throttlebody is for sale. $375 total. plus shipping takes it.
07-10-2004, 08:18 PM
#52
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I don't ever get "confident", respect that high hp, it can make you or break you (into itty bitty pieces)
my car is fun to drive, doesn't make as much power as yours but sometimes it surprises me every now and then. I know this all ways keep both hands on the wheel.
just be careful man, and don't give those stupid ricer kids the time of day, you know you can whip their ***, don't chance fawking up your car playing with those kind of fools.
I've noticed that when I get into my car I'm just a tad bit more aggressive than I usually am, guess the fumes get pumped into my veins and get me all worked up or something.
my car is fun to drive, doesn't make as much power as yours but sometimes it surprises me every now and then. I know this all ways keep both hands on the wheel.
just be careful man, and don't give those stupid ricer kids the time of day, you know you can whip their ***, don't chance fawking up your car playing with those kind of fools.
I've noticed that when I get into my car I'm just a tad bit more aggressive than I usually am, guess the fumes get pumped into my veins and get me all worked up or something.
07-10-2004, 08:26 PM
#54
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Man that's an impressive ride....should be good for 9's at +140.
BTW and A to A intercooler can't lower a temp below ambient unless you're introducing a cooling agent like icewater, n20 or co on the fins....dang physics.... sounds like you do have a 100% efficient IC though....that's also impressive...props to MORE.
BTW and A to A intercooler can't lower a temp below ambient unless you're introducing a cooling agent like icewater, n20 or co on the fins....dang physics.... sounds like you do have a 100% efficient IC though....that's also impressive...props to MORE.
07-10-2004, 09:22 PM
#55
Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
I don't ever get "confident", respect that high hp, it can make you or break you (into itty bitty pieces)
my car is fun to drive, doesn't make as much power as yours but sometimes it surprises me every now and then. I know this all ways keep both hands on the wheel.
just be careful man, and don't give those stupid ricer kids the time of day, you know you can whip their ***, don't chance fawking up your car playing with those kind of fools.
I've noticed that when I get into my car I'm just a tad bit more aggressive than I usually am, guess the fumes get pumped into my veins and get me all worked up or something.
my car is fun to drive, doesn't make as much power as yours but sometimes it surprises me every now and then. I know this all ways keep both hands on the wheel.
just be careful man, and don't give those stupid ricer kids the time of day, you know you can whip their ***, don't chance fawking up your car playing with those kind of fools.
I've noticed that when I get into my car I'm just a tad bit more aggressive than I usually am, guess the fumes get pumped into my veins and get me all worked up or something.
Very True and very good words of wisdom.
bryan
07-10-2004, 10:08 PM
#56
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[QUOTE=Bryan Wilkinson] I went from 6th to 4th and exploaded on him like the wrath of GOD. In less than 1.5 car lengths I was over 120 and he was a complete memory as I straight arm waved to him out the window with my finger. should have went to third, but Im sure it wouldnt have matterd. Good kill.
07-12-2004, 12:54 PM
#58
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Might want to recalibrate your Intake temp sensor or your ambient temp sensor. 90° inlet on a 100° day just isn't possible using passive cooling. Even 100° inlet on a 100° day is again impossible, assuming a heat load of greater than 0.00001 W.
07-12-2004, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by blown98z28!!
350ws6,
This is what I was saying. thanks for agreeing
This is what I was saying. thanks for agreeing