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Intercooler question

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Old Sep 4, 2018 | 10:37 PM
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Default Intercooler question

I’m considering adding a front mount intercooler. Having some issues picking one out. My main question is, so when you read about each one, some give a hp rating. Say it says 500hp. Is that pertaining the amount of glue potential that it will support or is that the potential hp of an engine that the intercooler would control the heat? The reason I ask is I don’t desire to cut my bumper up to fit one of these higher hp units if I can get “some decent” improvement over having no intercooler. I don’t have much issues with iat right now but I’d like it to be a little better. I’ll see 150-160 after making a few full throttle blasts but my cruising iats are about 98-100f and maybe 110 sitting stil.
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 08:33 AM
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Nobody knows? Or maybe I posted at the wrong time last night.
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 08:50 AM
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Heat control rating usually. Actual flow ratings on them are pointless.
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
Heat control rating usually. Actual flow ratings on them are pointless.

good to know. I’m trying to pick something that will fit without chopping my car up. I still plan on running meth so it doesn’t have to rely on just the intercooler for cooling. Thx
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 01:06 PM
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Water-air can be easier to package than a big thick air-air if you don't mind the extra complexity of the pump, water hoses, and heat exchanger.
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 01:13 PM
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Or just use a Garrett a2a and keep damn near ambient...
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 01:20 PM
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My intercooler needed airflow when I bumped the boost a couple PSI (from 5-7) as I wasn't comfortable with the IAT's on straight 93 (>130*F). Once I cut out the front bumper it really helped.
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 01:35 PM
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Cooler air is more dense. Dense air = hp. You spend money to make horsepower, don't cheap out on an intercooler if you want to keep your air temps in check. We use No corners cut fab intercoolers on our builds in the shop.
Airflow to the intercooler is just as important, especially if you cant fit a large core in the vehicle.
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Old Sep 6, 2018 | 03:18 PM
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Power ratings are largely bullshit.

It's really simple. But the biggest you can afford, and buy the best core you can afford. Then it's impossible to go wrong.

A lot of people favour vertical flow, some horizontal. I guess the reality depends what is easiest for you to package.
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy
I’m considering adding a front mount intercooler. Having some issues picking one out. My main question is, so when you read about each one, some give a hp rating. Say it says 500hp. Is that pertaining the amount of glue potential that it will support or is that the potential hp of an engine that the intercooler would control the heat? The reason I ask is I don’t desire to cut my bumper up to fit one of these higher hp units if I can get “some decent” improvement over having no intercooler. I don’t have much issues with iat right now but I’d like it to be a little better. I’ll see 150-160 after making a few full throttle blasts but my cruising iats are about 98-100f and maybe 110 sitting stil.
Even the smallish intercooler that used to come with the STS kits did a decent job of controlling IATs at 500+rwhp. A much bigger one could be fit without cutting anything noticeable. Just get the biggest one that fits and roll with it.
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 09:25 AM
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Im about to start building a rearmount c5z. Assembled my tr6060/c6z diff yesterday to get ready for that swap, c6 cradle and rear coilovers. Then start my turbo build.
I'm gonna run vsrbillet 78/75, NON INTERCOOLED, I have a alky control kit, gonna run a small nozzle pre turbo and a norm nozzle about 1-2ft before the tb after the bov. Mix a 60/40 meth/water.
see what happens!!! I have talked to many who have done it, my plan is 10lbs around 600-650 tire.
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by jdwtx85
Im about to start building a rearmount c5z. Assembled my tr6060/c6z diff yesterday to get ready for that swap, c6 cradle and rear coilovers. Then start my turbo build.
I'm gonna run vsrbillet 78/75, NON INTERCOOLED, I have a alky control kit, gonna run a small nozzle pre turbo and a norm nozzle about 1-2ft before the tb after the bov. Mix a 60/40 meth/water.
see what happens!!! I have talked to many who have done it, my plan is 10lbs around 600-650 tire.
Your plan is 100% doable, but will never satisfy you. The rear mount kits make too many compromises, and relying solely on meth injection will always leave you wondering what happens when it fails. Your plan can work well, but is far from ideal. A front mount with a proper intercooler will give much more peace of mind.
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by jdwtx85
Im about to start building a rearmount c5z. Assembled my tr6060/c6z diff yesterday to get ready for that swap, c6 cradle and rear coilovers. Then start my turbo build.
I'm gonna run vsrbillet 78/75, NON INTERCOOLED, I have a alky control kit, gonna run a small nozzle pre turbo and a norm nozzle about 1-2ft before the tb after the bov. Mix a 60/40 meth/water.
see what happens!!! I have talked to many who have done it, my plan is 10lbs around 600-650 tire.
a rear mount can be made to work, but you need to pay particular attention to retaining as much heat in the hot side as possible. Do a search on here for member Zombie and a thread called something like "Rear mount turbo saga...". For starters, you need to keep stock manifolds and smaller hot side piping that is completely wrapped to retain the heat.
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 08:27 AM
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Oh yea,
I've got full plan my c5z, are wrapped. Gonna full wrap to the turbo. 2.5 off each manifold to a mufflex style 3in y then taper back down to 2.5 to the turbo. Then 2.5 from the turbo strait tinthe tb. Small nozzle #2 pre turbo and maybe #5 1-2ft from the tb. Ive got a full plan. Maybe ill throw it in the guys face in that post above that said I wont be happy!!
I'm copying danzglass and turboffr builds with a little change, both those cars make over 800, one is a 5.3 on is a 6.2. I laugh at people that say it won't work, hahahaha, most people do not size the piping and the turbo right. The people that have success love their setups. Only thing diff is I wanna try it with out a cooler. Im not worried just need to complete it. Sunday I put the custom gearing tr6060 in and a c6z diff to match. Need to put in the rear suspension and going rear coilovers.
those with your support, thank you very much.
Jason
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 08:42 AM
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I think going to a 3" Y is a mistake. It'll kill velocity as well as likely drop the exhaust temperature.
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
I think going to a 3" Y is a mistake. It'll kill velocity as well as likely drop the exhaust temperature.

The plan
the two guys I know that make over 800 both run 3" hot and cold rear turbos.
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by jdwtx85

The plan
the two guys I know that make over 800 both run 3" hot and cold rear turbos.
Nobody's saying it won't work period, it just won't work as well. You really should dig up that thread I mentioned earlier. He had a TON of data and back to back testing.
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by jdwtx85
Oh yea,
I've got full plan my c5z, are wrapped. Gonna full wrap to the turbo. 2.5 off each manifold to a mufflex style 3in y then taper back down to 2.5 to the turbo. Then 2.5 from the turbo strait tinthe tb. Small nozzle #2 pre turbo and maybe #5 1-2ft from the tb. Ive got a full plan. Maybe ill throw it in the guys face in that post above that said I wont be happy!!
I'm copying danzglass and turboffr builds with a little change, both those cars make over 800, one is a 5.3 on is a 6.2. I laugh at people that say it won't work, hahahaha, most people do not size the piping and the turbo right. The people that have success love their setups. Only thing diff is I wanna try it with out a cooler. Im not worried just need to complete it. Sunday I put the custom gearing tr6060 in and a c6z diff to match. Need to put in the rear suspension and going rear coilovers.
those with your support, thank you very much.
Jason

i wouldnt count my chickens before they hatch. I thought I could get away with no intercooler. So I didn’t run one. But truth be told, it was a mistake. A fixable mistake, but nonetheless a mistake. Why? Well it’s still warm outside and if I drive the car it heats up (intake air temps) and gets to a point where I should get on it. If I get caught in traffic, every stop and start will raise iats 5-10 degrees in a hurry and they don’t cool down as fast as they rise. It’ll get around 150 pretty easy and won’t come back down until I get to cruise for a bit. Then if I get on it when temps are low, I’ve seen 190f and when it gets that hot it feels like I lost 50-60hp. I’m only running 3.5ish psi right now too. Imagine if I turn up the boost. So the car is parked until the intercooler is done. My advice to you from my very recent experience (this week) is leave room for a cooler if some sort. I was going to do meth and I bought all the stuff to do it but realized that will do no good for cooling stuff off while driving. And if you kill the engine for a few minutes the compressor housing gets heated up greatly from heat soak and man you just added even more hot air temps. If your building a drag only car then yea, you could get away with it. You gonna drive this car, unless your just trying to get the thing running, you need some sor of cooler. You’ll find out the truth what I tell you on your first drive.
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy



i wouldnt count my chickens before they hatch. I thought I could get away with no intercooler. So I didn’t run one. But truth be told, it was a mistake. A fixable mistake, but nonetheless a mistake. Why? Well it’s still warm outside and if I drive the car it heats up (intake air temps) and gets to a point where I should get on it. If I get caught in traffic, every stop and start will raise iats 5-10 degrees in a hurry and they don’t cool down as fast as they rise. It’ll get around 150 pretty easy and won’t come back down until I get to cruise for a bit. Then if I get on it when temps are low, I’ve seen 190f and when it gets that hot it feels like I lost 50-60hp. I’m only running 3.5ish psi right now too. Imagine if I turn up the boost. So the car is parked until the intercooler is done. My advice to you from my very recent experience (this week) is leave room for a cooler if some sort. I was going to do meth and I bought all the stuff to do it but realized that will do no good for cooling stuff off while driving. And if you kill the engine for a few minutes the compressor housing gets heated up greatly from heat soak and man you just added even more hot air temps. If your building a drag only car then yea, you could get away with it. You gonna drive this car, unless your just trying to get the thing running, you need some sor of cooler. You’ll find out the truth what I tell you on your first drive.
did you uses any type of cooling aid? No meth, water/meth?

back in the day less technology the old 5.0 stangs ran blowers with no coolers
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jdwtx85
did you uses any type of cooling aid? No meth, water/meth?

back in the day less technology the old 5.0 stangs ran blowers with no coolers

meth will do me no good in regular or brisk driving when there’s no boost. I’m not saying you can’t get away with it. I am. But it’s way less than ideal and it starts pulling timing when it heats up and you can feel the power drop drastically. A Buick grand national came with no intercooler and that was what convince not to put one. But that engine and car and everything about it is different. An old 5.0 has less compression. Only thing I can tell you is try it. I promise you when you feel the rush of boost and then the next run you make it falls on it face, you’ll be in the same boat as me right now. My piping kit came in yesterday and I got the cooler last week. If that tells you anything. I won’t turn the boost up or the timing until that is done.
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