Turbo 5.3 with a Glide
When you say hung on the converter, do you mean it kept it in that range where it wasn't locking up and continuously slipping creating heat?
I've got a 3.50 gear now and was looking at 3.08 but you said 3.31 were better, just thought maybe that gear kept it closer to lock up.
I've got a 3.50 gear now and was looking at 3.08 but you said 3.31 were better, just thought maybe that gear kept it closer to lock up.
This is great info, for me I have no intention of getting into the 8.teens anytime soon so it sounds like I made the right choice for now.
The goal is pretty modest at mid to low 9's at 800whp on pump fuel and maybe 9.0 or 8.99 at 1K whp on race gas.
I looked at a second gear leave TH400 but the gear set and brake I would need were almost as much as what I spent on the whole trans with some good parts in it.
I still wouldn't mind knowing how guys are getting away with running such a low SLR with a glide and tall gears, I would have thought that would tax the transmission/converter too much and cause problems but obviously not.
Is the SLR just a guide and the problems come when it gets too high with traction limitations?
The goal is pretty modest at mid to low 9's at 800whp on pump fuel and maybe 9.0 or 8.99 at 1K whp on race gas.
I looked at a second gear leave TH400 but the gear set and brake I would need were almost as much as what I spent on the whole trans with some good parts in it.
I still wouldn't mind knowing how guys are getting away with running such a low SLR with a glide and tall gears, I would have thought that would tax the transmission/converter too much and cause problems but obviously not.
Is the SLR just a guide and the problems come when it gets too high with traction limitations?
The 1.8 glide / 3.50-4.10 combos tend to work great at the track. The SLR of a stock geared TH400 (2.48 first) needs more "tuning" to work when guys start to approach 8.00 from what I've seen, and overall that combo tends to be easier to work even for 9 second cars.
Second gear leave would work with some decent gearing out back, 2nd gear is typically 1.48. I've looked into it for myself, but I haven't come to any sort of conclusion on whether down the road I'd do that or 1.95 or 2.10 gear set, or just do a 'glide. I don't have big bucks in my TH400 so I'm kinda open.
The 1.8 glide / 3.50-4.10 combos tend to work great at the track. The SLR of a stock geared TH400 (2.48 first) needs more "tuning" to work when guys start to approach 8.00 from what I've seen, and overall that combo tends to be easier to work even for 9 second cars.
The 1.8 glide / 3.50-4.10 combos tend to work great at the track. The SLR of a stock geared TH400 (2.48 first) needs more "tuning" to work when guys start to approach 8.00 from what I've seen, and overall that combo tends to be easier to work even for 9 second cars.
I'm not dead set on a 4l80. I have a powerglide that's been sitting for 21 years. If a powerglide or 400 works well with a turbo LS on the street, then I would go that route. Especially since they are much cheaper than a 4l80. I say "street" but it's a Chevelle with a turbo LS, eventually. So you can imagine how I'm going to drive it. Just like I did when I was 16! I've pretty much beat on the car for 26 years and don't plan on stopping. Spirited driving, not worried about fuel mileage or saving my tires, taking off quickly, hard tire barking shifts. Not grandpa in his vette or street rod going to the local cruise in. I've never drove a high horsepower fast car with a 4l80 or any other OD lockup trans. Only my diesel truck I used to have. Only 350, 400, PG, and manuals. I have no idea how a 4l80 will feel or how the power will be put to the ground.
I like the TH400 because with a manual valve body there's no electronics, it simple and it shifts when I tell it to.
I copied the parts list for FTI's 1,200hp TH400 and pieced it together over time so I wasn't out a big chunk all at once.
Mine doesn't bark the tires or any of that nonsense, just a good firm shift so as not to upset the chassis and beat up the driveline.
If you can find a good TH475 core which are found in larger BBC equipped RV's and dump trucks, those come with straight cut planetaries which are stronger than the helical cut planetaries commonly found in the passenger/light truck transmissions, plus they whine loudly and sound really cool lol.
The main draw back is usually when you do a full manual valve body, that usually eliminates the ability to down shift which to me is not that big a deal but if you're really street focused you might find that to be a problem.
Don’t overcomplicate it. I went to the glide to settle down the first few seconds of the pass and it did. All the other gear sets for the th400, second gear leavers, yadda yadda are if your out class racin, chasin a number or need to be in the mix in a super competitive class. Just not necessary most of the time IMO. Spend the money on a good G meter before a gearset. It’ll help more than you can imagine. Good power management will get you down most tracks no matter what gears/gearing you have in the car. You just have to be willing to put in the time, learn it and get good with it.
It seemed a lot more economical to go with an HD TH400 core and build from there instead of an AM PG case and what not.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 154
Likes: 22
From: Indiana
The 4L80 is essentially a TH400 with an extra overdrive gear and a lock up converter, the 4L80 even comes with the 32 element sprag/drum assembly so that's one less upgrade needed when compared to the TH400.
I like the TH400 because with a manual valve body there's no electronics, it simple and it shifts when I tell it to.
I copied the parts list for FTI's 1,200hp TH400 and pieced it together over time so I wasn't out a big chunk all at once.
Mine doesn't bark the tires or any of that nonsense, just a good firm shift so as not to upset the chassis and beat up the driveline.
If you can find a good TH475 core which are found in larger BBC equipped RV's and dump trucks, those come with straight cut planetaries which are stronger than the helical cut planetaries commonly found in the passenger/light truck transmissions, plus they whine loudly and sound really cool lol.
The main draw back is usually when you do a full manual valve body, that usually eliminates the ability to down shift which to me is not that big a deal but if you're really street focused you might find that to be a problem.
I like the TH400 because with a manual valve body there's no electronics, it simple and it shifts when I tell it to.
I copied the parts list for FTI's 1,200hp TH400 and pieced it together over time so I wasn't out a big chunk all at once.
Mine doesn't bark the tires or any of that nonsense, just a good firm shift so as not to upset the chassis and beat up the driveline.
If you can find a good TH475 core which are found in larger BBC equipped RV's and dump trucks, those come with straight cut planetaries which are stronger than the helical cut planetaries commonly found in the passenger/light truck transmissions, plus they whine loudly and sound really cool lol.
The main draw back is usually when you do a full manual valve body, that usually eliminates the ability to down shift which to me is not that big a deal but if you're really street focused you might find that to be a problem.
Not really looking to find a core and mess with ordering parts and having it rebuilt. Looking at buying a trans already built. Seen to many people and local shops that think they know how to build a trans for something that has some power. I don't really have the tools to build a trans. I think I will stick with a 4l80 like my original plans. Really hate to because they are huge and expensive. But, I think computer controlled, OD, and lock up will be worth it.
Pick up a unit rated for 800whp from a known builder (Rossler, FTI, Jakes, etc.) since you'll probably never see more than that for a street cruiser and spend money on a good converter because the converter makes all the difference.
For the converter I'd recommend Circle D, they've been great to work with, PTC is also really good, FTI is good but pricey, I'm sure there's others who can make recommendations as well.
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Verdad Gallardo On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 154
Likes: 22
From: Indiana
I've been looking at Jakes 4l80 for several years. Expensive. But all OD trans are. Driveability isn't a huge concern since I've been driving the car for 21 years with a th350. 5 years before that with a powerglide. I'm used to the higher rpm. It's really hard to beat a 400. But, I guess 4l80 with OD and lockup can't hurt any. Turbos seem to like lockup anyway. Had a Firepunk Diesel stage 1 48re with triple disk billet in my Dodge and would flip the lockup switch when it shifted to second. It would really go!
I've been looking at Jakes 4l80 for several years. Expensive. But all OD trans are. Driveability isn't a huge concern since I've been driving the car for 21 years with a th350. 5 years before that with a powerglide. I'm used to the higher rpm. It's really hard to beat a 400. But, I guess 4l80 with OD and lockup can't hurt any. Turbos seem to like lockup anyway. Had a Firepunk Diesel stage 1 48re with triple disk billet in my Dodge and would flip the lockup switch when it shifted to second. It would really go!
That's why the 4L80 is good, the shifts are controlled via solenoid and not by pressure so you can run high pressures for high horsepower and maintain automatic functions.
I'd ask a reputable builder what they recommend based on your power goals.
There are kits out there that make a TH400 manual and allow down shifting but my builder said even those aren't a good idea since they can knock the teeth out of the back of the case.
I can't speak to the glides, they may be different.
Aftermarket case, 10 clutch drum, input/output shafts, converter dump valves, etc.
It seemed like the PG needed a host of parts to measure up to a TH400 and cost considerably more.
They can all get extremely expensive. My point to John was to just consider a glide before buying and expensive gearset and a $econd gear leaver valve body for a Th400, blah blah blah (essentially turning it into a 1.58 first gear glide).
At what power level do you see the factory PG case become a limitation?
I'd be curious to know what one would take to hold around 1,200whp in a street/drag application.
Ah I see what your saying, I came to the same conclusion when looking at building a second gear leave TH400 so I left the ratios stock and figured I was down the road from needing something like that anyways.
At what power level do you see the factory PG case become a limitation?
I'd be curious to know what one would take to hold around 1,200whp in a street/drag application.
At what power level do you see the factory PG case become a limitation?
I'd be curious to know what one would take to hold around 1,200whp in a street/drag application.
Raising line pressure is harder on the case, sometake it for a while & some don't. I've built a few for friends, usually using the good pieces they already have & making them better but
unless you can get some wholesale prices it's gonna cost more than an FTI glide or something similar. Mineis probably good for 1500hp, a bit more if the drum is upgraded with more clutches &
has cost roughly $4k. I can give specs if needed.
I've heard the stock case can take 1,000 but I wouldn't trust it. From my experience above 750hp it needed more line pressure or high gear would slip. My car was 3500lbs also & that didn't help. Raising line pressure is harder on the case, some
take it for a while & some don't. I've built a few for friends, usually using the good pieces they already have & making them better but unless you can get some wholesale prices it's gonna cost more than an FTI glide or something similar. Mine
is probably good for 1500hp, a bit more if the drum is upgraded with more clutches & has cost roughly $4k. I can give specs if needed.
take it for a while & some don't. I've built a few for friends, usually using the good pieces they already have & making them better but unless you can get some wholesale prices it's gonna cost more than an FTI glide or something similar. Mine
is probably good for 1500hp, a bit more if the drum is upgraded with more clutches & has cost roughly $4k. I can give specs if needed.
Think I'll play at a lower horsepower level lol.
I think I'll end up playing with taller rear gear ratios first or perhaps picking up PG pieces here and there like I did with my TH400.
I've built, used & upgraded mine over time. It's not so bad if you do it a few parts at a time.
Line pressure kills factory glide cases if it’s too high. The cases crack around the reverse clutch because that’s typically the thinnest point. Keep pressure around 195>210 psi and that’s your best bet. I built mine around advice from a buddy running one behind a turbo LS that makes about 1400-1500. Ultra bell, 7 friction high gear clutch, good band, Sonnax dual o-ring servo, 1.80 gearset and T-brake. I’ll admit, I got a swingin’ deal on mine because the seller was “getting out of racing” and it was fine. Well it wasn’t. High gear was a torched because they rolled the servo oring during assembly. It had all the above (sans Ultra Bell) and I paid $600 for it. I’d say if you can find a decent one for a grand WITH A GOOD GEARSET, snag it and go through it. JMO.