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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 09:38 PM
  #41  
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Yea sorry. I was referring to the mechanical pumps. Increasing the lines and making sure your airflow is good (vacuum fill the rad). Also make sure you have it sealed tight unfront if the rad and the airdam in place.
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Old Sep 28, 2018 | 10:50 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by customblackbird
Yea sorry. I was referring to the mechanical pumps. Increasing the lines and making sure your airflow is good (vacuum fill the rad). Also make sure you have it sealed tight unfront if the rad and the airdam in place.
did the vaccum fill which worked awesome. I may have to return to stock size lines, or go back to the stock pump. It was cooling better with the stock pump on these -16 lines with a 160 tstat
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 09:14 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by j-mart32


did the vaccum fill which worked awesome. I may have to return to stock size lines, or go back to the stock pump. It was cooling better with the stock pump on these -16 lines with a 160 tstat
the electric pumps work better for drag cars and cooling in the pits. I highly believe in mechanical pumps for the street for lots of reasons. Main one being flow, stock pump puts out ALOT more flow than 35GPM and because of that cool better. A lot of newer cars are using electric water pumps (bmw is a big one) but they are using wayyy better pumps and in much higher flow rates and they are brushless.

I woukd put a HV mechanical (cheap or nicer) I rock the flow kooler upgraded pump that uses a Billet inpeller for 2x the flow at idle and no cavitation at high Rpms and it has worked well for me on different engines. Drill a couple of holes in it for air bleeding and vacuum fill.

What fans/fan are you running and turn on temp?
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 11:27 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by customblackbird


the electric pumps work better for drag cars and cooling in the pits. I highly believe in mechanical pumps for the street for lots of reasons. Main one being flow, stock pump puts out ALOT more flow than 35GPM and because of that cool better. A lot of newer cars are using electric water pumps (bmw is a big one) but they are using wayyy better pumps and in much higher flow rates and they are brushless.

I woukd put a HV mechanical (cheap or nicer) I rock the flow kooler upgraded pump that uses a Billet inpeller for 2x the flow at idle and no cavitation at high Rpms and it has worked well for me on different engines. Drill a couple of holes in it for air bleeding and vacuum fill.

What fans/fan are you running and turn on temp?
this pump is the mezier high flowing one @ 55gpm. Fan is on a switch, not sure the CFM but it cools great at idle lol. I usually don't turn it off on the highway, heard mixed things about keeping it on vs off.
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Old Sep 29, 2018 | 11:46 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by j-mart32
this pump is the mezier high flowing one @ 55gpm. Fan is on a switch, not sure the CFM but it cools great at idle lol. I usually don't turn it off on the highway, heard mixed things about keeping it on vs off.
pretty sure those pump outputs are freeflow and not under pressure. If your overheating above 35-40mph then it’s not fan related and it’s airflow. This is of course if the rest of the system is sized accordingly. Fans are the same way, most inflate Cfm numbers with no static pressure, only spal posts that info.

Heres a good pic of a aftermarket electric pump with no Tstat, stock pump with Tstat and a Evans high flow pump and high flow Tstat. This is specific to the LS platform so it’s good info. A high flow stock style mechanical pump will outflow a 55gpm electric pump at pressure. Maximize your coolant flow, get good airflow and you should be good.

forgot the pic!



Last edited by customblackbird; Sep 29, 2018 at 12:29 PM.
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