To the boosted guys that have had a engine failure
but you are right!
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,308
Likes: 660
Those guys with the 1500hp are looking a the.......... I could go on and on.
seem like a dime a dozen now, but I've been told 600 is the best for street cars anyways. Oh well.
Unless you have a very good boost by gear/rpm set up and some sort of traction control strategy, 600 wheel is plenty. Probably even too much honestly.
I can't tell the difference in the way 600 vaporizes tires and the way 1000 does.
I can't tell the difference in the way 600 vaporizes tires and the way 1000 does.
TECH Addict
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,513
Likes: 480
From: PDX-OR-USA
I've spent quite a few years at the track road racing,, Karts and Cars, For many years I traded running one of the supply trailers at the track of seat time a car..
Sold thousands of gallons of various octane and manufacturers race fuel,,, Something I learned about plug reading from a Race Fuel Chemist,,
you can't fully trust color on race gas.. The additive packages can create a
false coating on the plug that will make it look fat or lean when it can be the
opposite.. And the packages can change every shipment of fuel.
Pure white ,, or wet black yea,, but comparing light grey to off white,, not so much,
electrode bridging, burning off etc,, thats obvious, but by the time the
color of the plug truly sets,, there is plenty of time for other stuff to go sideways,,
100% methanol gives the easiest read, or 100LL Avgas, they are both almost pure
products with very few additives that will mess things up..
I used to run a car that had 8 thermocouples, that went to a box showing the hottest by default
or could cycle through the readings,, was a nice setup cause it was quick enough to give a red
light of one jug went hot or cold. $$ to get it but it was kinda cool. Was an aircraft gadget..
We still had a Wideband on there..
And yes sometimes after the fact,, it told you that the
reason the engine quit running and made expensive noises was a bad mix..
Just pondering..
Sold thousands of gallons of various octane and manufacturers race fuel,,, Something I learned about plug reading from a Race Fuel Chemist,,
you can't fully trust color on race gas.. The additive packages can create a
false coating on the plug that will make it look fat or lean when it can be the
opposite.. And the packages can change every shipment of fuel.
Pure white ,, or wet black yea,, but comparing light grey to off white,, not so much,
electrode bridging, burning off etc,, thats obvious, but by the time the
color of the plug truly sets,, there is plenty of time for other stuff to go sideways,,
100% methanol gives the easiest read, or 100LL Avgas, they are both almost pure
products with very few additives that will mess things up..
I used to run a car that had 8 thermocouples, that went to a box showing the hottest by default
or could cycle through the readings,, was a nice setup cause it was quick enough to give a red
light of one jug went hot or cold. $$ to get it but it was kinda cool. Was an aircraft gadget..
We still had a Wideband on there..
And yes sometimes after the fact,, it told you that thereason the engine quit running and made expensive noises was a bad mix..
Just pondering..
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Verdad Gallardo I've found that the price for being wrong about that can be pretty high. Higher than I can afford at this stage in the game at least.
yea I feel you, 1000hp cars are the norm. But can they put that down. I watch a 1000hp (demon or hellcrap) rave a 600hp car and the 600hp car handed it to him. I don’t know where I’m at right now but it’s probably at least 500+ and anything under 45 and they are going to spin. I almost lost it in traffic once. I will be getting a good controller here soon. Probably an eboost2.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 333
Likes: 4
From: New Zealand
A lot depends on tire and setup. At 663rwhp I could go WOT from a dig if I rolled off the clutch smooth and then floored it. In the wet I could go WOT from the top of 3rd gear. That's with a 6sp manual and 3.9 gears, but not normal tires lol. I run Nitto NT01's 315 on rear 100 compound, and they stick wet or dry once warm.... unless there's standing water..... then it's really really bad. haha.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 333
Likes: 4
From: New Zealand
Haven't popped motor yet but have worked it hard and got it f#4!'n hot a few times. Down 15psi on 1 so will build it and forge it. Could easily go for 1000rw and might as a one off thing - but feel 700rw is the sweet spot for my car. Less if I went to normal road tires. The biggest safety feature on our modern cars are the trutrac type diffs. The old lockers/spools, mechanical LSD's are lethal on public roads at our power levels because there is no steering except by throttle when they lose it. The trutrac/wavetrcs etc are legend at helping the car stay on the road even spinning up.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,308
Likes: 660
Stay safe fellas.
As you increase the power, usually the next weak link breaks. This is also true for your tires.
I chose very tall drag radials with 15" wheel. May not be stylin, but i'm hoping they will hook.
As you increase the power, usually the next weak link breaks. This is also true for your tires.
I chose very tall drag radials with 15" wheel. May not be stylin, but i'm hoping they will hook.
A lot depends on tire and setup. At 663rwhp I could go WOT from a dig if I rolled off the clutch smooth and then floored it. In the wet I could go WOT from the top of 3rd gear. That's with a 6sp manual and 3.9 gears, but not normal tires lol. I run Nitto NT01's 315 on rear 100 compound, and they stick wet or dry once warm.... unless there's standing water..... then it's really really bad. haha.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 48
yea I feel you, 1000hp cars are the norm. But can they put that down. I watch a 1000hp (demon or hellcrap) rave a 600hp car and the 600hp car handed it to him. I don’t know where I’m at right now but it’s probably at least 500+ and anything under 45 and they are going to spin. I almost lost it in traffic once. I will be getting a good controller here soon. Probably an eboost2.
For the guys running the 427 LSX Dart or Bow Tie blocks with twin 7875's or similar putting down 1300+ using the 4L80E's to keep over drive for a 'street setup' heavy car while still running 8's at the track on your trans brakes, what gear ratios are you using? Standard 2.48 for 1st and 1.48 for 2nd? Assuming the suspension is all dialed in with all the aftermarket goodies to properly hook, how far are you dropping the power on the street such that the car can be handled with say a pair of MT ET streets? What axle ratio is common in these setups? 3.25? 3.42? What stall speed? This combo has been around for awhile now and I'm considering such a build, just curious on what some of the more common street setups are at that power level.
A lot depends on tire and setup. At 663rwhp I could go WOT from a dig if I rolled off the clutch smooth and then floored it. In the wet I could go WOT from the top of 3rd gear. That's with a 6sp manual and 3.9 gears, but not normal tires lol. I run Nitto NT01's 315 on rear 100 compound, and they stick wet or dry once warm.... unless there's standing water..... then it's really really bad. haha.
While there are daily capable cars over 1000 rwhp they aren't as common as the internet makes them seem. The definition of a street car has changed a bit over the last 10 years. Most of the cars you see at the "street drags" or no prep races are never driven on the street. With that said my close friend runs 5.1x with a 2002 corvette and has driven it to and from the track just to prove a point before. I will also mention from hanging with him that the "no prep" events by the second round actually hook better than the regular prepped races here. People put down so much prep that by the second round guys are struggling to keep the front end down. No prep has changed a lot he runs his best ET's and 60' on no prep events that should tell you something. Now they've even moved to a pro tree from a instant green. It's really benefitting the huge power cars more now than ever.
One thing about the centri is it's easy to control. I know I'm only about 600 with an auto, but the linear curve with less torque than a turbo makes it easier to drive on the street.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 48
I agree with this^^^. Even on this forum, the term "street car" has been stretched beyond recognition. Many of them are nothing more than hacked to death race cars that get driven on the street. There's a night and day difference between those..... and a genuine real deal street car.