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Creakote, zycoat/ZyBar or something else? Hotside coatings
Got myself a HF blast cabinet to start coating. Want to coat my crossover first and then prob my headers or even my turbo housing. Got some 70 grit alum oxide for the 304SS piping.
I dont want to send it out (I’ve done it a few times and it works but at the same time it’s expensive and I don’t learn how to do it. So let’s keep it under $100 for the material. I have no idea how much this will take so u clearly more for less is better here.
Ive been looking at 8oz of creakote high temp exhaust air cure and it’s about $80. My concern is that it’s durable but is it good at keeping the heat in and out of my engine bay? Then I found the zycoat and it’s $80 for 4oz and it seems like it’s more about heat retention which is good but it’s only 4 oz.
looking for options or opinions of how creakote works on the exhaust side. I can wrap it after but i would rather not bc it’s annoying to work with and around. My current stuff is stainless wrapped with eBay lava wrap. So the coating would have to be as good or better than wrap initially. If wrapping it further helps considerably I might consider it.
Like said in the other thread, I used the cerakote on my complete hot side. The crossover is wrapped and sprayed with silicone black paint to seal the wrap. The manifolds are just cerakote and it seems to work great.
Decided on the creakote titanium glacier high heat ceramic. Ordered it like a week ago and won’t be here till next Monday. 2 weeks is a long *** time to ship UPs ground lol. But it’s a hazard and includes extra fees to rush it. I only got 16oz and figured that would be enough but who knows since it’s such a thin coating required.
The regular glacier seems to be easy to apply (what I got the non chrome), clean, blast, outgas and paint, then let dry.
Yea I was reading up on that. I didn't like that the coating only came in white and its texture is thicker/rougher. If I remember correctly the Swaintech coating has to be applied by them?
Yup, they only do it in house.
its a true thermal barrier coating, intended to slow heat transfer, not just something to make it look pretty. It can be painted
Just wanted to update this. Got everything and upgraded my HF blast cabinet. I started with my T4 adapter, dump and new crossover. Blasting worked fine, took a while as I only have a HF 21 gallon compressor. Coating was straight forward and it only took about 1 oz to coat everything (stuff goes a long way!). I’m now pulling and have to blast my headers and Down pipe and I’ve already pulled my exhaust turbines on my new VS Billet 78/75 and my cast 78/75 to blast and coat. Hopefully this stuff works decent and holds up! Color is nice as well, air cure titAnium glacier.
Looks good. You don’t have to bake it? It just air dries? That’s gonna hold up to exhaust turbine heat you think?
On a sidenote. I just got my vs racing billet 7875 today. I have a cast version on there now. Do you notice any difference between the two? Spool quicker?
Looks good. You don’t have to bake it? It just air dries? That’s gonna hold up to exhaust turbine heat you think?
On a sidenote. I just got my vs racing billet 7875 today. I have a cast version on there now. Do you notice any difference between the two? Spool quicker?
nope! Baking is not required and no mixing either. Pour and shoot. The stuff is rated for 2000+ *F, it’s designed for this stuff. For me the biggest issue with coatings like ceramic coating was blasting and baking as you need the tools to do so and only having to get blasting tools is cheaper and easier than getting a big *** oven lol.
I wont know till the spring as it’s 30* out and snow has already started this season. From talking to viren he says the Billet wheel is worth 18% increase in flow, could spool quicker but the Billet wheel is larger than the cast so it offsets any weight savings. Some **** I’ve read on the Net showed big low end improvements with a Billet wheel upgrade back to back (like 100+ hp/tq under the curve and boost was quicker where the guy had to reduce EBC DC to make the max boost). Viren said at my boost pressure 11-15psi to expect about 8% increase in flow over the cast wheel. I hope it spools quicker and if it can make max boost alittle quicker it would be a worth while upgrade for about $500.
My shop had my hot side Cerakoted as well. I can touch it almost immediately after making a pass; pretty impressive stuff.
Looks frigin awesome!!! I was against spraying the compressor housing as I thought it would retain heat in as I'm sure the heat it produces is higher than the engine bay heat.
I finished up the rest of my hot side today. Picked up another air compressor same HF 21 gal and hooked them up parallel... seemed to help as I was able blow through 2 headers, 2 78/75 exhaust housings, 2 vband adapters and my 3ft DP. Baked and cleaned, then sprayed! Ive used a total of 4 oz for everything its crazy how little of this stuff you need. I could have just gotten the 4 oz sample and been done lol but screw it... you get a lot more for double the price.
Question for you guys who have blasted... I blasted the cast iron exhaust housings (one was brand new AKA no rust, the other was spray painted with 2k rustoleum (little to no ruse) ) and they came out the dull grey color. Then I cleaned them with brake clean and threw them in the oven for 30min at 250*F (recommended by creakote). After 30 min the housings came out completely brown and rusted. So I hit them again with brake clean and said screw it and sprayed it. I mean was the rust from all the moisture in the iron? I'm just confused as they were kept indoors and baked so it wasn't like condensation... it was just weird. I wasn't able to get all the rust/brown off but just cleaned it up a bit and sprayed it.
The cast in the turbine housings has a high iron content and pulls moisture out of the air very quickly and will "flash" rust. It's not a big deal as it probably helps with adhesion as it's etching the surface even more.
I decided to start reinstalling the parts and got my new billet VS 78/75 painted and assembled (ceramic coated the housing) and POR15 the cartridge. I have installed most of the parts minus the turbo and WG.
Decided on the creakote titanium glacier high heat ceramic. Ordered it like a week ago and won’t be here till next Monday. 2 weeks is a long *** time to ship UPs ground lol. But it’s a hazard and includes extra fees to rush it. I only got 16oz and figured that would be enough but who knows since it’s such a thin coating required.
The regular glacier seems to be easy to apply (what I got the non chrome), clean, blast, outgas and paint, then let dry.
where did you order from? I think I’m gonna order some
I got a pint (16oz) and it goes a LONG way. I use an $7 airbrush from HF and the HF 1/6hp air brush compressor to apply (so very little waste if any). I want to say Ive used 4oz already doing:
2 shorty FWD UP turbo headers
2.25" crossover
2 T4 turbo exhaust housings
2 Vband 3" to 2.25" adapters
1 3ft long 3"' DP
1 CX racing T4 90* elbow adapter
Total was like $79 shipped UPS ground for the pint, but took 2 weeks to get to me from texas or wherever it came from.
11-07-2018, 06:56 PM
Creakote, zycoat/ZyBar or something else? Hotside coatings 
