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ECT...aluminum vs iron block

 
Old 11-16-2018, 09:33 AM
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Default ECT...aluminum vs iron block

For a street car in the 750-850 rwhp range is there any significant difference in keeping the engine cool between an aluminum block and an iron block?
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Old 11-16-2018, 09:38 AM
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I have no direct experience, but my gut tells me, no...provided you have a good cooling system.

Andrew
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Old 11-16-2018, 10:24 AM
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I have no experience with an iron LS boosted motor. But I can tell you this, my car has an aluminum LS2 and makes 740whp and it's on E85. During the winter, i actually have trouble keeping heat IN the motor.... runs too cool. During the summer months with the AC on, it runs about 200 on the freeway and creeps up to around 220 around town.
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Old 11-16-2018, 10:30 AM
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The reason I ask is in the GTO specifically Iíve read of several iron 408ís with prochargers having over heating issues. They are the only ones Iíve noticed having this issue.

On my LS1 on only 10 psi I have a 160 stat on e85 with first fan on at 179 and 2nd fan on at 185. I couldnít tell you if the second fan even works because it never gets to 185 even on 90 degree days.

Im planning a forged 6.0 and it made me curious if I should add cooling along with weight as things to consider between aluminum and iron.

eta...I had a 408 in a different car that had no cooling issues, but it was a different ball game...about 500 whp NA and 650 on spray.
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Old 11-16-2018, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R View Post
The reason I ask is in the GTO specifically Iíve read of several iron 408ís with prochargers having over heating issues. They are the only ones Iíve noticed having this issue.

On my LS1 on only 10 psi I have a 160 stat on e85 with first fan on at 179 and 2nd fan on at 185. I couldnít tell you if the second fan even works because it never gets to 185 even on 90 degree days.

Im planning a forged 6.0 and it made me curious if I should add cooling along with weight as things to consider between aluminum and iron.
The power adder shouldn't really matter much, I mean... it's not like you are riding around in boost non stop. Only reason you should have overheating issues is, weak fans...obstructed air flow...or air in the system.
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Old 11-16-2018, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Game ova View Post
The power adder shouldn't really matter much, I mean... it's not like you are riding around in boost non stop. Only reason you should have overheating issues is, weak fans...obstructed air flow...or air in the system.
True...the only difference being the intercooler in front of the radiator and extra load from the blower. I donít even have that little plastic piece under the radiator that people say will cause it to over heat if you remove it. My trans cooler was in the way so I just left it off.
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Old 11-16-2018, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Game ova View Post
The power adder shouldn't really matter much, I mean... it's not like you are riding around in boost non stop. Only reason you should have overheating issues is, weak fans...obstructed air flow...or air in the system.

FWIW roots style blowers add heat to the intake air just putzing around. My experience is with old school stuff (6-71) so take it for what it's worth. But underdriving it actually lowered the coolant temp driving around normally. I'd love to have some hard data from someone with say, an LSA that ran theirs with different pulleys while monitoring intake air temps.

As far as the OP's question, I can't imagine you'd see any difference.
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Old 11-16-2018, 01:53 PM
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I'd like to hear from some users as well as I intend to swap out my turbocharged aluminum LS1 with an iron LM7 and am hoping it doesn't cause me any cooling issues.
Regarding prochargers, a friend of mine ran a procharger on his fbody with the aluminum LS1 and it ran hot constantly, he switched to a S485 and the car now runs cool as a cucumber so I think Prochargers inherently cause engines to run warmer.
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Old 11-16-2018, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by The ****** View Post
I'd like to hear from some users as well as I intend to swap out my turbocharged aluminum LS1 with an iron LM7 and am hoping it doesn't cause me any cooling issues.
Regarding prochargers, a friend of mine ran a procharger on his fbody with the aluminum LS1 and it ran hot constantly, he switched to a S485 and the car now runs cool as a cucumber so I think Prochargers inherently cause engines to run warmer.
Read my previous post...I have zero issues currently with a procharged ls1 even on the hottest summer days in stop and go traffic.
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Old 11-16-2018, 11:43 PM
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On my 5th gen camaro i went from the factory aluminium block to a LSX block, no changes to the cooling system and it stayed right at or even a little below the same temp. Maybe its cause of it being LSX but i dont think they cool any better then any other iron block..
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Old 11-19-2018, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R View Post


Read my previous post...I have zero issues currently with a procharged ls1 even on the hottest summer days in stop and go traffic.
E85 is going to run cooler than gasoline
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Old 11-19-2018, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Krom View Post
E85 is going to run cooler than gasoline
Yes, I ran pump gas to start with and didn't have any cooling issues either. I switched to E85 for the power gains and knowing I was going to keep adding more boost wanted the safety margin tuning wise.
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Old 11-19-2018, 11:28 PM
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I live in a hot climate in South Florida. I went from a 436ci LS6 aluminum engine to an iron 390ci LQ9.

Temps are identical in all areas of driving ranges.

Anything will stay cool if the cooling system is operating properly.

.
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by LS6427 View Post
I live in a hot climate in South Florida. I went from a 436ci LS6 aluminum engine to an iron 390ci LQ9.

Temps are identical in all areas of driving ranges.

Anything will stay cool if the cooling system is operating properly.

.
This is what I wanted to hear, I'm in Washington State so the humidity and temps will never be anywhere as close as Florida.
If you have no issues then I'm sure I'll be fine, thank you sir.
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:55 AM
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they all run the same unless someone decides to do a 1/2 filled block. they work if the rpm is up and water is moving but if you get cought in traffic the back of the engine will go to 250 or so. for your power range you won't find a block that won't hold up if the tune is good.
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