ECT...aluminum vs iron block
On my LS1 on only 10 psi I have a 160 stat on e85 with first fan on at 179 and 2nd fan on at 185. I couldn’t tell you if the second fan even works because it never gets to 185 even on 90 degree days.
Im planning a forged 6.0 and it made me curious if I should add cooling along with weight as things to consider between aluminum and iron.
eta...I had a 408 in a different car that had no cooling issues, but it was a different ball game...about 500 whp NA and 650 on spray.
On my LS1 on only 10 psi I have a 160 stat on e85 with first fan on at 179 and 2nd fan on at 185. I couldn’t tell you if the second fan even works because it never gets to 185 even on 90 degree days.
Im planning a forged 6.0 and it made me curious if I should add cooling along with weight as things to consider between aluminum and iron.
FWIW roots style blowers add heat to the intake air just putzing around. My experience is with old school stuff (6-71) so take it for what it's worth. But underdriving it actually lowered the coolant temp driving around normally. I'd love to have some hard data from someone with say, an LSA that ran theirs with different pulleys while monitoring intake air temps.
As far as the OP's question, I can't imagine you'd see any difference.
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Regarding prochargers, a friend of mine ran a procharger on his fbody with the aluminum LS1 and it ran hot constantly, he switched to a S485 and the car now runs cool as a cucumber so I think Prochargers inherently cause engines to run warmer.
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Regarding prochargers, a friend of mine ran a procharger on his fbody with the aluminum LS1 and it ran hot constantly, he switched to a S485 and the car now runs cool as a cucumber so I think Prochargers inherently cause engines to run warmer.
Temps are identical in all areas of driving ranges.
Anything will stay cool if the cooling system is operating properly.
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If you have no issues then I'm sure I'll be fine, thank you sir.










