Should it be clattering at this low boost?
1/4 times are all about the little details. If you want to get better times, you abuse the **** out of your drivetrain. This is simple fact. If you want your components to last a long time, then don't. The GTO is a pretty heavy ride, and if you build transmissions you understand what that means. Also, when your axle stubs twist, they are a nightmare to get out. As a side note, if one of them breaks, the resulting one wheel peel will burn out your factory limited slip clutches in less than a second. Then again, I have a t56 car, so my drivetrain was doomed from the start.
1/4 times are all about the little details. If you want to get better times, you abuse the **** out of your drivetrain. This is simple fact. If you want your components to last a long time, then don't. The GTO is a pretty heavy ride, and if you build transmissions you understand what that means. Also, when your axle stubs twist, they are a nightmare to get out. As a side note, if one of them breaks, the resulting one wheel peel will burn out your factory limited slip clutches in less than a second. Then again, I have a t56 car, so my drivetrain was doomed from the start.
i think the stock rubber driveshaft is saving it. I did munch my stock shaft already tho. I put an 06 diff and driveshaft in. The rubber discs (guibo) are bigger and more beefy. So is the shaft, the diameter is bigger.
Rather than make a new thread. Would you guys rather regular 93 ethanol gas or 93 non ethanol gas? That’s really the only two choices I have. I have like three non ethanol pumps in my area. Which is better to use?
93 pump 10% ethanol is all I can get. Does the most work per BTU. Basically the more ethanol you put in it the less MPG you get or the less work the gas does. Higher ethanol means slightly better cooling and octane rating but if its rated for 93 octane I would use pure gas/10% ethanol vs anything with higher ethanol unless it was E85 which is a whole different animal but still follows the rules I stated before.
I guess what i need to do is quit farting around and install a small meth shot. The thing that scares me is if the system fails to work for some reason then i'm in deep doodoo. I probably should just play it safe for now until my other engine is done, keep it at 10lbs and 12-13 degrees timing and be happy with how it is now. But its hard. lol
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Last edited by Kfxguy; Dec 3, 2018 at 12:48 PM.
I had a neighbor as a kid that was a long time bracket racer. He always told me "when you build a car you start from the rear and work forward". On both of my GTO's I put good stuff in the drivetrain before I started adding power. The first one was an FLT trans with all BMR stuff and a Kaaz in the oem differential. This one I planned another Kaaz, but got too good of a deal to pass up on an 05 diff freshly built with a strange spool and Gforce stubs. I got it all shipped to my door for less than the price of the stubs alone. I finished off with an RPM trans and all drive shaft shop stuff. Honestly I don't care for the spool although it isn't as bad on the street as I expected. I plan to eventually put a LSD in it. The Fbody guys are going to laugh, but I had many passes (over 100) in the 1.5x 60' range with that setup with zero issues. I've heard of people going that far with stock stuff with an Auto trans and zero wheel hop. Basically set a goal for the car and build the driveline to handle that goal then work on getting to the power level you want. GTO's are obviously not the best chassis choice if drag racing is your primary goal. Although I've heard of some guys 60ing very well they were basically race cars with lots of weight reduction and suspension for straight line only.
I was curious to find the weak links in the drivetrain, since in 2004 they were not widely known to U.S. customers. The clutch slippage was first, followed by axle stub twist and breakage, which immediately led to posi clutch burnout. I preemptively replaced the DS with a one piece in a failed attempt to eliminate wheelhop. While installing a Kaaz I also went with a Harrop cover for the diff in another attempt to control wheelhop. The only thing that ever made a difference in wheelhop was Koni adjustable shocks and airbags. I never found out what the stock DS or diff cover would have been good too, as I replaced them prematurely. I fully agree that you should upgrade known weak points first, but this car was new to the U.S. at the time, so little hard fact was known about what the components would handle.
For Kfxguy since you are considering a 5.3 anyway I found that ATK has an LM7 based forged rod and piston 347 for only $2800ish with free shipping and discount on top of that for tech members. I'm seriously considering picking one of those up and sent them an email on it yesterday. I figure for that price it's worth a shot and could be sitting here ready to go.
I also bought my first GTO in January 04. I did all the BMR stuff and Kaaz before I added any serious power so I don't know what would have actually broke on an auto. That stock drive shaft is junk regardless of the year GTO it came out of. I had Koni shocks, king springs, and heavy sway bar on the first one as only suspension mods and was able to adjust the shocks to fully eliminate wheel hop. This time around I though hey same shocks, springs, and sway bar equals no wheel hop...WRONG! Once I added the spool wheel hop became a nightmare. Since I've added differential mount insert and drag bags to get rid of wheel hop for the most part. I still get it in certain circumstances like cold temps and wet roads. Next is cradle bushings, but I want to get rid of the spool and do a Kaaz again. For now the spool works and a short block may come first LOL.
For Kfxguy since you are considering a 5.3 anyway I found that ATK has an LM7 based forged rod and piston 347 for only $2800ish with free shipping and discount on top of that for tech members. I'm seriously considering picking one of those up and sent them an email on it yesterday. I figure for that price it's worth a shot and could be sitting here ready to go.
For Kfxguy since you are considering a 5.3 anyway I found that ATK has an LM7 based forged rod and piston 347 for only $2800ish with free shipping and discount on top of that for tech members. I'm seriously considering picking one of those up and sent them an email on it yesterday. I figure for that price it's worth a shot and could be sitting here ready to go.
I already have an aluminum 5.3 on the stand in my shop, complete engine but the regular rods and pistons. I have not decided what i'm doing with it yet. I thought about selling it and adding some money in and getting an ls3. I'm not sure yet. I break the motor in it anytime soon and the 5.3 will go in there just like it is now.
Last edited by Kfxguy; Dec 4, 2018 at 08:44 AM.
Well you’re a lucky dog lol. It seems to vary from car to car. I’ve had two with vastly different results. Most autos only do it at the strip when you spin and start to hook is when it’s most likely. If you don’t go to the track or dead hook when you do you may never experience it in an auto.
Well you’re a lucky dog lol. It seems to vary from car to car. I’ve had two with vastly different results. Most autos only do it at the strip when you spin and start to hook is when it’s most likely. If you don’t go to the track or dead hook when you do you may never experience it in an auto.
You will be fine. If it wheel hops just get out of it. It’s possible the previous owner could have done bushings as well. Replacing the two large rear cradle bushings and differential mount bushing insert helps.
Well you’re a lucky dog lol. It seems to vary from car to car. I’ve had two with vastly different results. Most autos only do it at the strip when you spin and start to hook is when it’s most likely. If you don’t go to the track or dead hook when you do you may never experience it in an auto.