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Trying to keep it simple....do i really need a boost controller

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Old Jan 13, 2019 | 09:32 PM
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Default Trying to keep it simple....do i really need a boost controller

In the process of trying to figure out what to do with my car related to boost control. I had a junkyard 6.0 with a cam and twin 62 mm borg warners with 2 jgs 40 mm gates ....saw 19 psi and broke a piston, so im building a 427 dart block mast 295 cathedral port solid roller cam callies crank and rods diamond pistons yada yada yada and its controlled by a holley dominator Car is going to be driven on the street 90 percent of the time..

The real question i have is do i need to run a boost controller? Or can i keep it simple and just run off the wastegate, as i did before. Im going to keep the 62 mm setup for now which should spool extremely fast. Am i leaving a lot on the table by just running it on the spring? i dont plan on running crazy boost numbers as of now as i realize my biggest issue will be traction. What are your thoughts? thanks
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Old Jan 13, 2019 | 09:44 PM
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Since you're running a Holley Dominator then why not use it to control boost? With all that it offers I would think it would be a no brainer to use it.
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 05:34 AM
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yes you can run on gate spring only. but I think you need less spring than 19 lbs. I run a 10 lb spring and use a cheap $80 manual controller to go up to 20 lbs on mine. but my car is a glide and 3.42 gear. if you run a 400th with more gear you might need a controller to bring the boost in slower to keep it consistant..
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by yenkomike
yes you can run on gate spring only. but I think you need less spring than 19 lbs. I run a 10 lb spring and use a cheap $80 manual controller to go up to 20 lbs on mine. but my car is a glide and 3.42 gear. if you run a 400th with more gear you might need a controller to bring the boost in slower to keep it consistant..
Fact^^^
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 01:41 PM
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A simple manual boost controller can be made for about $15 worth of hardware. Or bought on amazon for $25. For a street car that sounds like it will be a handful though I’d say boost control is very important.

Being able to progressively ramp in power is about the most important thing for a quick street car IMO. A 3 port china MAC valve is about $25 shipped and well worth it. You can setup boost by speed which will help with traction a ton. Anything over 12lbs on my setup would instantly smoke the 30” slick or radial setup. I set mine up to run 8lbs or so up to 50ish then ramp it up to 20lbs by 100mph. Night/day difference.

Might want to check your tune as well...19psi won’t break a piston. But 19psi with a poor tune can. Just food for thought. You can damage a big expensive motor just as easily as a factory one.
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 02:24 PM
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You can do whatever you want.
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 02:32 PM
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You dont need one but not using one leaves alot to be desired in my opinion.
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 06:38 PM
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I appreciate the responses guys.

Tune was not on point...ran one of the holley box tunes and kept timing conservative....think it got lean and hurt it. Didnt see it was hurt til boost went up to 19 and it filled the catch can with oil

Im just new to this tuning and how it works but the car is going to a tuner when the motor is done and its nice enough out to drive it...

the hot setup with the holley seems to be 2 solenoids and a dome pressure sensor. So ill prolly be going that route with a 5lb bottle of co2.

anyone have a recommendation on a 5lb bottle holder and a regulator setup?

again thanks for the help

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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 10:39 PM
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You said your staying street buy a tank and an electric air compressor from viair and be done with it. You never have to fill the tank.
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 11:45 PM
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Boost by gear/time on the Holley is awesome.... I can't really use much boost in the lower gears anyway but really pour it in above 100mph! To not use it would be crazy.

You can also use a table to plot front wheel speed to driveshaft speed for traction control with the Dominator!
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 06:23 AM
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Onboard air over complicates things and isn't necessary on a street car IMO. With a 3-port MAC valve alone U can do all that's needed. I have a range of 8-20lbs and I'm only at around 40% DC.
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 01:16 PM
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I had the single 3 port for a while and while it worked, it left a bit to be desired. There’s a constant compromise between light enough spring to run low boost, having enough spring to run high boost, waiting on compressor output for your signal, repeatable boost curve, etc. While all these can be overcome, running onboard air with a light spring allows repetition and the widest range of boost control IMO.
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 01:35 PM
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it may do, but for most it is not one bit necessary.
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Onboard air over complicates things and isn't necessary on a street car IMO. With a 3-port MAC valve alone U can do all that's needed. I have a range of 8-20lbs and I'm only at around 40% DC.
Doing dual solenoids with dome sensor on holley using the compressor for reference and jave 11lbs-40lbs on my setup.
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 02:56 PM
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Has a Dart 427 block and Holley dominator but we are having a conversation about a $100 solenoid? Just buy it and hook it up to use Holley boost control, its great!

Personally I would not run the dome pressure/c02 nonsense on a street car, the hassle isn't worth the reward. Just set the boost control up for solenoid duty cycle and be done with it, put a boost cut where you need to.

Be careful with the included Holley tune, its for race gas and has a lot of timing in it. I would pull a lot out of it for a street car on pump. Start low and work up, costs a lot less then starting high and working down!
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 05:02 PM
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Run a boost controller for sure. I have a street car as well with a very simple set up that is based on solenoid duty cycle as outlined above and have no complaints. I'm able to regulate down to 7.5 psi and up to 20++.

The C02 is definitely nice and will allow you more accurate control, but from what you are saying you are doing is not necessary. I would not recommend the on board air. Buddy had it and his compressor took a **** at the track and ruined his event and a few after while he was trying to figure out what was going on with it. He does the bottle now but then you're having to deal with filling bottles (even though it only uses a very small amount of air and they last a long time). Just do a simple single solenoid based on duty cycle and you will be happy.
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Old Jan 16, 2019 | 06:29 PM
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[QUOTE=SLOW SEDAN;20031479]Has a Dart 427 block and Holley dominator but we are having a conversation about a $100 solenoid? Just buy it and hook it up to use Holley boost control, its great!

i agree with your statement...im not worried about spending 100 on another solenoid by any means.

as in trying to keep it simple i was more or less referring to not having to hookup a c02 bottle or onboard air finding a spot to mount it etc.

i already have 1 solenoid. Just never had a chance to play with the boost control setting. it just seems like everything i read just leads me to 2 solenoids and dome pressure co2 tank and all this crap i probably dont need. It seems as though i need to do a lot more reading on the subject.

i appreciate the help. Pretty green on the dominator but learning...i will not be tuning this motor i can gaurantee that.

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Old Jan 16, 2019 | 11:43 PM
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[QUOTE=1985cucv;20032177]
Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
Has a Dart 427 block and Holley dominator but we are having a conversation about a $100 solenoid? Just buy it and hook it up to use Holley boost control, its great!

i agree with your statement...im not worried about spending 100 on another solenoid by any means.

as in trying to keep it simple i was more or less referring to not having to hookup a c02 bottle or onboard air finding a spot to mount it etc.

i already have 1 solenoid. Just never had a chance to play with the boost control setting. it just seems like everything i read just leads me to 2 solenoids and dome pressure co2 tank and all this crap i probably dont need. It seems as though i need to do a lot more reading on the subject.

i appreciate the help. Pretty green on the dominator but learning...i will not be tuning this motor i can gaurantee that.
The Holley system is pretty well thought out, Besides boost control and logging it can also be used for multiple safeties, Over boost being one so you don't have to worry about uncontrolled boost blowing another engine. Here is a link, It starts out on oil pressure but covers boost also.

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Old Jan 17, 2019 | 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by yenkomike
yes you can run on gate spring only. but I think you need less spring than 19 lbs. I run a 10 lb spring and use a cheap $80 manual controller to go up to 20 lbs on mine. but my car is a glide and 3.42 gear. if you run a 400th with more gear you might need a controller to bring the boost in slower to keep it consistant..
This, with a shitty WG location a buddy made 11ish pounds on a 7lb spring with his boost controller turned off. Its a perfect street setting, and doesnt require any adjustment. But IF you want to make boost changes on the fly without WG spring changes, thats where the BC comes in.
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Old Jan 18, 2019 | 06:49 PM
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Ok I guess I'm going to go against the grain here.... a few year back when I 1st put my nova together , I had a cheap boost controller on it that messed up and saw over 18psi on 1st test......bent a rod on a Gen 3 6.0. I threw it away and and just run on spring now. . Just keep in mind you might get a lil bit of boost creep in top gears. I.e.....12psi might creap to 14ish. Its alot easier ..... I totally agree with everyone else if it's a track car and you need to ramp in power for track conditions.
I also agree with others on Holley tunes......they are way off for pump gas.
Do a search sloppy mechanics had posted a timing table/afr start from there.
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