Twin screw or turbo?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: Lake Charles, LA
Twin screw or turbo? So I’m getting to the point in my build where I need to make some critical decisions before I go any further. I have a good 6.0 and brand new CNC GMPP LS3 heads. Here’s what I’m struggling with.
Stay 6.0, upgrade rods and pistons
Stroke to 408
Whipple supercharger (3.5-4.5L)
Turbocharger
This truck (Sonoma) is going to be more daily driven than anything. I understand that my power potential is greater if I choose turbo, but for daily driving the instantaneous hit of a twin screw is awesome.
Also, I know there’s weak links in the LS, but, and maybe I’m naive, but I don’t hear about the cranks failing left and right. On the contrary, I’ve seen and heard of the stock cranks holding up to some serious power. Since I’m using a power adder, is stroking it to a 408 even really worth it? Parts-wise we’re only talking about maybe $1200-1300 difference if I don’t get a stroker crank. With that in mind, if the stock crank will hold the power, that’s $1200-1300 I could spend elsewhere.
My max power goal for this engine would be to crack 1000, but it ultimately comes down to the performance. If it makes 300 hp and runs low 9’s then I’m happy. I don’t really care what the power number is, I care about the speed.
Thanks for any advice. I really appreciate it.
Stay 6.0, upgrade rods and pistons
Stroke to 408
Whipple supercharger (3.5-4.5L)
Turbocharger
This truck (Sonoma) is going to be more daily driven than anything. I understand that my power potential is greater if I choose turbo, but for daily driving the instantaneous hit of a twin screw is awesome.
Also, I know there’s weak links in the LS, but, and maybe I’m naive, but I don’t hear about the cranks failing left and right. On the contrary, I’ve seen and heard of the stock cranks holding up to some serious power. Since I’m using a power adder, is stroking it to a 408 even really worth it? Parts-wise we’re only talking about maybe $1200-1300 difference if I don’t get a stroker crank. With that in mind, if the stock crank will hold the power, that’s $1200-1300 I could spend elsewhere.
My max power goal for this engine would be to crack 1000, but it ultimately comes down to the performance. If it makes 300 hp and runs low 9’s then I’m happy. I don’t really care what the power number is, I care about the speed.
Thanks for any advice. I really appreciate it.
I wouldn't spend the money on the 408.
A 6.0 with good rods and pistons will get the job done easily.
I prefer BorgWarner turbos for the reliability and cost, but if you want a blower, I understand.
A 6.0 with good rods and pistons will get the job done easily.
I prefer BorgWarner turbos for the reliability and cost, but if you want a blower, I understand.
A turbo will make life easier in your situation. It gives you more options if you decide to make changes later. It also gives more flexibility for intercooler options. The whipple is a good option, but you are much more stuck with whatever you initially choose. It would also put a lot of stress on your crank snout, if that matters to you.
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Turbo is probably a better route if you really want to hit 1,000hp. But then you have a **** load of piping to deal with, that's a deal killer in my world but who cares. The other factor that would have me thinking blower is instant boost vs. turbo lag. I've never been in a turbo ls car, but I've had a couple of factory 4 bangers that were turbo. The Golf r that I had 4 or so years ago made 260hp with a 2.0 motor. But it lagged noticeably and detracted from the driving experience in what was probably the best overall car I've ever owned.
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Verdad Gallardo Turbo is probably a better route if you really want to hit 1,000hp. But then you have a **** load of piping to deal with, that's a deal killer in my world but who cares. The other factor that would have me thinking blower is instant boost vs. turbo lag. I've never been in a turbo ls car, but I've had a couple of factory 4 bangers that were turbo. The Golf r that I had 4 or so years ago made 260hp with a 2.0 motor. But it lagged noticeably and detracted from the driving experience in what was probably the best overall car I've ever owned.
setup right, you won’t have much lag. For a moderate power setup, the two 7875’s I’ve used Don’t have much lag. It doesn’t turn on like a na setup but that’s probably keeping the drivetrain together. O wait. I just shattered the output shaft in the trans. Lol.
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Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Ohio
Rod/piston 370, twin S362s, proper cam. Youll be able to make 1000+ and itll light off quick, be quieter with open dumps than a 4.5 whipple would be with mufflers, and overall be a little less annoying to drive.
If you absolutely have to have instant power, the twin screw is the way to go.
If you absolutely have to have instant power, the twin screw is the way to go.
If you are set on your 1000hp number I'd go turbo. You are going to have to spin the dog **** out of the Whipple to get that much power which is going to make your IAT's really high unless you put a REALLY good head on it. Just my .02
Even though your not going max effort I'd still stick to the minimum overboard needed. If you can run at stock bore or only .005" over I'd highly suggest it over a .030" overbore. The power gained vs the possible loss in cylinder wall integrity just isn't worth it.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: Lake Charles, LA
Thanks for the tip. This is my first go with a LS. I’m used to 0.030 over being the standard. If it cleans with a home, 0.005, or 0.010 then you’re right. I’ve never been a believer that boring over was for power... it’s to true the cylinders. Sure you might get a few hp, but nothing that a butt dyno would ever pick up.
It may only be 6 cubic inches over the 6.0L but moving the cylinder wall farther away from the valve will do wonders for airflow. Or allow bigger valves and not make valve shrouding any worse that stock....and cylinder wall integrity is just fine at 4.03". Few if any have had a an initial wall failure. Iron block of course....I don't think the LS2 or other 6.0L aluminum blocks can be bored to 4.03"
