Should I Wire 'Em Shut?
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Should I Wire 'Em Shut? I have been told that my Incon turbos on this new 370ci will prolly max out at around 10psi . . . I've been running a Greddy Profec-B, but if these turbos really will max out, I may just wire them shut. What do you think? I know Harlan did that with his setup. My only worry is if my fuel system is up to the task. Got the single Walbro 340 intank and 42lb injectors. Do you think the fuel system would max out before it hit max boost? I also have a boost-a-pump to utilize . . .
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you'll max them out up top, but watch the boost spike down low 
With a really tight spring, you still get some wastgate action from the back pressure pushing the puck open. But with them wired or the spring stretched to coil bind, you get what you get.
By peak torque, you should be in the 10 to 13 psi range on the bigger motor. But from 2500 to there it'll probably be 20 to 18 psi. At that low RPM, the 42's "should" be ok but the pump is questionable.
just watch it carefully
With a really tight spring, you still get some wastgate action from the back pressure pushing the puck open. But with them wired or the spring stretched to coil bind, you get what you get.
By peak torque, you should be in the 10 to 13 psi range on the bigger motor. But from 2500 to there it'll probably be 20 to 18 psi. At that low RPM, the 42's "should" be ok but the pump is questionable.
just watch it carefully
wussy 
the turbos choke at a given flow, but the motor doesn't use as much down low/below peak torque. Thus the higher boost.
Even with mine REALLY tight and the pressure regulator style boost controller on the top port of the cans (had dual port actuators on mine) I'd get a spike of 18 or more from a 3K RPM roll in. But it would drop to 14/15 by 4500.
If you can tighten them up enough to get 13 or 14 at the top end, but not get the low end spike it'll probably be safer in the long run. But what fun is that??
the turbos choke at a given flow, but the motor doesn't use as much down low/below peak torque. Thus the higher boost.
Even with mine REALLY tight and the pressure regulator style boost controller on the top port of the cans (had dual port actuators on mine) I'd get a spike of 18 or more from a 3K RPM roll in. But it would drop to 14/15 by 4500.
If you can tighten them up enough to get 13 or 14 at the top end, but not get the low end spike it'll probably be safer in the long run. But what fun is that??
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I'd do a DIY manual boost control...
Check out these articles.. The bottom of the page lists three DIY systems.
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_0685/article.html
You can shape the boost curve as desired...
I'd set it up with an anit wastegate creep opening gate... Means that the gate does'nt see pressure at all untill full boost is reached and then opens..
Check out these articles.. The bottom of the page lists three DIY systems.
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_0685/article.html
You can shape the boost curve as desired...
I'd set it up with an anit wastegate creep opening gate... Means that the gate does'nt see pressure at all untill full boost is reached and then opens..
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Thanks guys . . . I was only wondering if I could wire them shut to avoid all of the tubing for the Greddy . . . which works just fine. I don't want to get into another system like that, although I'm sure it works great. Already got the money into the Greddy.
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From: Las Cruces, NM
Originally Posted by ChevyNo1
You know, if I could get a decent price I probably would . . . I wonder what it would fetch?
I have posted how to make the diy boost controller I am using. Its cheap, no boost spikes and gives the fasted possible spool. The spool would as fast as no acutator signal line until the set point is achieved.
Gary
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/190220-incon-actuators.html
try that..titled Incon actuators
try that..titled Incon actuators
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From: Phoenix, AZ
I read cablebandit's account of how he turned in the rods all the way and without hoses to the actuators saw 18psi, with the rods turned back out to normal position he saw 15 . . . so turning in/out that rod still has an effect with no hose to the actuator? Is it holding the puck more open/closed?
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Originally Posted by ChevyNo1
I read cablebandit's account of how he turned in the rods all the way and without hoses to the actuators saw 18psi, with the rods turned back out to normal position he saw 15 . . . so turning in/out that rod still has an effect with no hose to the actuator? Is it holding the puck more open/closed?
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I never did measure the exhaust back pressure on my old setup, but i'd bet it was over the typical ~2x manifold pressure you see on a properly sized compressor/turbine setup.
turning in the rod just adds more preload for the back pressure to overcome.
they have less pressure to overcome as my tranny blew 3/4 yesterday. Yippie!!!!!! I know that is not the proper way to set boost but it works for me..very consistent....and cheap to do.