'90 s10 build
#62
TECH Addict
iTrader: (47)
Chassis comes tomorrow, so I spent the past couple of days getting the frame ready for it. I had to extend it about 20". I still have to finish welding and boxing it in. These angled tube cuts are time consuming though. I hate posting unfinished work, but I guess it's just the name of the game.
#65
On The Tree
Thread Starter
#68
Might be ok if you are only planning on running 12s but if it's gonna fly then it will be beneficial to spend some time with a sheet of Allstar aluminum and some pop rivets.
#69
Might be ok if you are only planning on running 12s but if it's gonna fly then it will be beneficial to spend some time with a sheet of Allstar aluminum and some pop rivets.
#71
Looking good
not sure but they may not pass the rear strut bars as they must be no lower than 4" of the top of the main hoop
Are you going to do an x or tri x in the middle of the strut bars?
If so that might appeal to their rule
not sure but they may not pass the rear strut bars as they must be no lower than 4" of the top of the main hoop
Are you going to do an x or tri x in the middle of the strut bars?
If so that might appeal to their rule
#72
On The Tree
Thread Starter
I think it's 5 inches but they're 3.5 and 31 degrees of angle
#73
On The Tree
Thread Starter
I'm going to mount my fuel cell and build a parachute mount next.
#74
On The Tree
Thread Starter
I'm floating around ideas how I want to lay things out, like fuel cell, bed mounting, battery, etc. Talking to orange, I'm trying to think of a way to get as much weight over the rear end, without putting too much in the back of it. This is just something I'm brainstorming.
Red is where the fuel cell is mounted
Blue will be the bed mount for the rear
I'll be deleting the bars from the bed mount location back
Black X are will additional crossmembers will be
I'm kind of debating on whether or not to leave the whole back open and remove the
Last edited by 9outofs10; 12-16-2019 at 10:23 AM.
#75
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Man this chassis stuff is time consuming. But I'm almost there.. just 3 bars left then I can fully weld it all together. My 4 link kit (Competition Engineering Magnum kit) should be coming in next week. I'm also rethinking/redesigning the wishbone pan hard setup I have tacked up.
#77
On The Tree
Thread Starter
It is, and thank you. I've probably sent more hours reading/researching chassis designs than I have building this. Frankly, I'm a bit nervous to see how it'll perform at the track. That's what differs between the professionals and DIY'ers. They can look at something know whether or not it'll work, whereas this is complete trial and error for me.
#79
On The Tree
Thread Starter
So I do have a question for the suspension experts.. my original idea for a panhard bar was do something like this... but my father seems to think I'm going to have binding issues with my parallel 4 link. I sort of understand where he's coming from (forward and back movement.. not lateral, at different suspension angles). So I'm curious if anyone has done this, or has experience with this design?
#80
Teching In
A parallel 4-link requires a panhard bar to keep the axle located laterally. These do have some binding issues on turns (chassis roll), but not so on acceleration and deceleration. This looks like more of a drag truck, and a parallel 4-link would be fine. Sometimes one link bar is "pre-loaded" to alter how straight the vehicle launches.
A triangulated 4-link does not require a panhard bar, as the triangulation locates the axle laterally. There is much less binding on roll. This suspension should be the lightest.
A 3-link simplifies adjustments in that you would only need to adjust the center link to change pinion angle or instant center (or both), but you would need a panhard again for lateral location. I -think- you would still be able to pre-load one of the parallel links for tuning if you had to. Though there is an optimal location for the center link based on track width (and wheel base?) that would provide the most ideal launch - it's not centered in the middle.
A triangulated 4-link does not require a panhard bar, as the triangulation locates the axle laterally. There is much less binding on roll. This suspension should be the lightest.
A 3-link simplifies adjustments in that you would only need to adjust the center link to change pinion angle or instant center (or both), but you would need a panhard again for lateral location. I -think- you would still be able to pre-load one of the parallel links for tuning if you had to. Though there is an optimal location for the center link based on track width (and wheel base?) that would provide the most ideal launch - it's not centered in the middle.