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Before I begin, let's pull an Eminem 8 mile move:
-My turbo and piping will be ripped off the car due to horrible ground clearance.
-My turbo will make zero boost because the turbo is in the wrong place.
-I will smoke screen and oil down every road driven on.
-I will need 6 scavenge pumps and 12 check valves with 47 alarms.
-All of the plumbing will make the car weigh just shy of a Suburban on 38's.
-When the oil lines invariably fail I will destroy my new motor.
-My turbo is too large to spool and too small to make any power.
Now that that's out of the way, I've always been curious about rear mount setups. Some work awesome and some suck. I understand the inherent deficiency with heat retention with the turbo in the back. I also remember the build threads from over a decade ago and the "zombie rear mount saga". The idea of keeping the under hood essentially unchanged and keeping stock fans etc is appealing to me so I'm giving it a shot. I missed out on a local mp112 kit by 2 days and stumbled across a rear mount kit for a fair price that had everything except oiling. Shout out to @TPIZ92 for packaging everything well and shipping it promptly.
I recently rebuilt an LS6 swapped Z28 that I picked up with a trashed motor with help from @WS6store.com and we gapped the rings a bit larger "just in case" even though I tried to resist boosting this car. I couldn't resist and finally gave in lol.
The current setup can be seen here: Image snip....................
The plan consists of insta spool from a GT67 sts turbo, 38mm STS ultragate, and 50mm BOV from the latest gen STS kit that fixed many issues. I have 100ft of high heat wrap to wrap my y pipe and as much exhaust as I can. I couldn't find stock manifolds and y local to me so well see how it works with the longtubes and y pipe. Get it running and go from there. Planning on around 10 psi from the 11 psi spring I just bought. 4AN feed line from above the oil filter like normal. 6AN return line to the valve cover through a Turbo Werx Spartan pump. It sounded super quiet on YouTube so we'll try it. Check valves in both feed and return lines. Large TRT FMIC from back in the day. I already had 60lb injectors and pumps laying around the garage. LC2 wideband gauge and Dynotune boost gauge.
Car makes low 400whp given the logs and some races I've had. Goal is to add about 100whp and have it drive the same. If it makes more cool. Low goals, just play around and have fun with it. I don't have the build speed of @Mavn so the entire kit won't be running tomorrow lol, but I've got some vacation coming up so hopefully it'll be done within a month. On to some pics! Image snip.................... Sts GT67 turbo with Boost Monkey turbo blanket Image snip.................... Boost and wideband gauges in the dash while keeping AC. Image snip....................
Turbo Werx Spartan pump and a whole lot of vacuum and braided line. Image snip....................
3rd gen STS kit that has dual exhaust. Piping is really beefy.
More pics to come!
Very nice. I like the idea of the rear mount turbos in part, because it solves a number of issues with installation on our cars. I remember the STS rear mounted kits from back in the day, and while I understood the downsides of this setup, I often kick myself for not having bought one back when they were available. They were very reasonably priced.
Couple thoughts / Questions:
1.) There are easier ways to go about this, albeit it isn't cheap. You can keep a stock look to your car while still adding a turbo. The Huron Speed AC V3 kits will do the job. The guy in this
kept his car looking damn near 100% factory while adding a front mount turbo. There is no vertical radiator, no cutting of the car's metal, etc. It just looks like a factory job. I understand this might be limiting somewhat, but would be great for street cars. You wouldn't be able to do twin turbos or a massive turbo for higher horsepower applications. The other obvious issue is cost and even more installation time. You can retain stock placement of most things, but the turbo piping gets crazy and you have almost no clearance between the accessory drive and the turbo as it's sandwiched between the radiator and the front of the engine. And of course, I understand ground clearance was one of the things you didn't like about your old setup.
2.) I see people shoving gauges into AC vents and I assume the cars don't or won't have AC. Where do you live that you can go without AC? This is a general question largely directed at most turbo guys. In Texas, I wouldn't ever think of building a car without AC or taking the AC out of the car. Even if it was purpose built for the track I'm not sure I'd do it. I don't really want to be on the line sitting in ball soup.
LOL....I am well versed in front mount turbo 4th gens for ~15 years. I know their pros and cons, including the Huron Speed kits having first hand experiences with multiple cars. Having never tried a rear mount other than someone else's rear mount GTO, this was more for curiosity. After having worked out the oiling bugs and swapping back to stock manifolds, so far I'm pleased with the results.
You can't run your AC on the starting line anyways at the track. They don't want condensation dripping down the track.
You can't go quick with a rear mount.....just fast
LOL....I am well versed in front mount turbo 4th gens for ~15 years. I know their pros and cons, including the Huron Speed kits having first hand experiences with multiple cars. Having never tried a rear mount other than someone else's rear mount GTO, this was more for curiosity. After having worked out the oiling bugs and swapping back to stock manifolds, so far I'm pleased with the results.
You can't run your AC on the starting line anyways at the track. They don't want condensation dripping down the track.
You can't go quick with a rear mount.....just fast
I was simply talking about being able to retain the stock look and air conditioning while doing it. Also, the post wasn't necessarily meant to educate you. I'm just thinking out loud.
I was simply talking about being able to retain the stock look and air conditioning while doing it. Also, the post wasn't necessarily meant to educate you. I'm just thinking out loud.
Its all good. My current kit has AC and looks stock under the hood except the intake pipe. Didn't have to relocate anything and still have an uncut front bumper. Really the only way to tell is to look under the back of the car. Every kit I've ever worked on kept AC....cause FL lol. They all require a compromise in 1 way or the other. I know a front mount would make more power....but it sure is nice to get under the front of the car and not have to deal with a turbo or hot side in front of the motor.
Its all good. My current kit has AC and looks stock under the hood except the intake pipe. Didn't have to relocate anything and still have an uncut front bumper. Really the only way to tell is to look under the back of the car. Every kit I've ever worked on kept AC....cause FL lol. They all require a compromise in 1 way or the other. I know a front mount would make more power....but it sure is nice to get under the front of the car and not have to deal with a turbo or hot side in front of the motor.
Meth kit pics coming soon....
Nice. Honestly, I'd seriously consider a rear mount turbo if there was a kit that was priced reasonably. My only issue with the Huron kits are the costs. I know its quality stuff, but I'm kind of working with a low budget when it comes to this car.
Nice. Honestly, I'd seriously consider a rear mount turbo if there was a kit that was priced reasonably. My only issue with the Huron kits are the costs. I know its quality stuff, but I'm kind of working with a low budget when it comes to this car.
My entire rear mount setup and motor was less than 5k.
Massive difference under the hood with the meth kit added.... Had to run to the Depot because the in cabin adjuster to controller both use a male RJ45, so odd. Going to test the system before I start drilling into the new pipe I added post MAF. I was able to drill a fitting in the factory window washer tank so I keep that functionality without adding a 2nd tank under hood
Massive difference under the hood with the meth kit added.... Had to run to the Depot because the in cabin adjuster to controller both use a male RJ45, so odd. Going to test the system before I start drilling into the new pipe I added post MAF. I was able to drill a fitting in the factory window washer tank so I keep that functionality without adding a 2nd tank under hood
Just remember that using the stock washer fluid tank means not running pure meth. I found out the hard way that factory washer fluid pumps will start leaking when the tank is full of straight meth.
LOL....I am well versed in front mount turbo 4th gens for ~15 years. I know their pros and cons, including the Huron Speed kits having first hand experiences with multiple cars. Having never tried a rear mount other than someone else's rear mount GTO, this was more for curiosity. After having worked out the oiling bugs and swapping back to stock manifolds, so far I'm pleased with the results.
You can't run your AC on the starting line anyways at the track. They don't want condensation dripping down the track.
You can't go quick with a rear mount.....just fast
id be interested in gto rear pic pics if you have some. Just for curiosity.
Why you need to beware of buying used parts offline. Been troubleshooting and came across this. You're looking at a mosfet heatsink that got hot enough to melt the housing. Pm'd the member we'll see what happens. 🙄
Had to run to the Depot because the in cabin adjuster to controller both use a male RJ45, so odd. Going to test the system before I start drilling into the new pipe I added post MAF. I was able to drill a fitting in the factory window washer tank so I keep that functionality without adding a 2nd tank under hood 
