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I've made 22psi on a worm clamp....yes a single one.
Still amazed me. I thought for sure worm clamps would have been universally hated on on here.
Originally Posted by TrendSetter
...i usually fix things until they're broken but not in this case.
I believe by definition that makes you an engineer
Originally Posted by TrendSetter
how much do you need welded? i have a tig and like beer. im up in mims these days though.
for right now it's just that 1 tube end. For something this easy to tack some beads/humps I'll hack it, but if I have a need for some real welding I'll definitely keep you in mind. Mims isn't too far north. Thanks for the offer.
#7 and 8 get hotter due to steam pockets and no water circulation. Thats why the water collection kits are so important.
As far as the ring land area or top ring down info, im not so sure about that.
The ch on our 5.3l pistons are 1.323 to 1.328 depending on floating or press pin and 1.330 on 5.7 with floating or press pin. Thats of course just on paper. In reality its more like 1.339 on this 3.898 5.7 piston. As you can see, there is a difference. I dont have all top down measurements but can get the 5.7 right now at roughly .203 which is substantial. Thats on a 3.898 piston going in this iron 5.7 im building. Ill try to get 5.3l tomorrow.
Not every piston is designed the same and not every internet article is right. I can measure a stock 5.3l dished piston tomorrow out of an 02 truck. Ill try to get the aftermarket measurement also. maybe even find a stock flat top 5.3 floating pin style if im lucky and didnt toss em.
Maybe i wont post em up in here as i dont wanna garble this thread up.
you were right. I thought there was more difference. From the top ring to the top of the piston on the 5.7 it’s .178 and the 5.3 was .195
With vice grips or a vice and some heat, it would definitely work. Or grind a chisel round and John Henry it. All of those would be solid farm fixes.
LOL @ solid farm fixes. We'll see how the tacks worked and go from there. I'm hesitant to take the whole pipe off since its bolted in as the subframe currently, but at least I have options. Alternator and boost controller should be here Thurs. so hopefully I can get it on and do some logging again.
Thankfully when we did the rebuild on my ls6 I went with a wider gap JUST IN CASE lol. Knew I couldn't stay away from boost for forever. I also run the ls1 steam crossover. Lot of mixed thoughts on it but my thought is that getting coolant and air pockets from the back to the radiator can't hurt.
FYI....here is where the coupler goes. Basically no room for a clamp once you get the coupler on. 8mm socket for reference of the lack of space. Prying on the pipe and the frame gave me a bit of space so hopefully the tacks/beads do the trick. I can solder like nobodies business but welding is another planet haha.
I see lots of room for a clamp, the Tbolt or worm clamp end will just hang at the bottom. or off towards the inside. Ive run 14/15psi on ebay aluminum IC piping and a bunch of my bends and straight sections have no beads to retain the couplers. Never had one pop off ever in 4 years of pushing 12psi minimum. I use quality Tbolts tho (Clampco) USA made as there is a huge difference in quality and you can get them pretty cheap on ebay (like $4-5 each if I remember). I normally have issues getting the couplers off from the silicone sticking to the pipe maybe bc they are black coated... dunno.
I see lots of room for a clamp, the Tbolt or worm clamp end will just hang at the bottom. or off towards the inside. Ive run 14/15psi on ebay aluminum IC piping and a bunch of my bends and straight sections have no beads to retain the couplers. Never had one pop off ever in 4 years of pushing 12psi minimum. I use quality Tbolts tho (Clampco) USA made as there is a huge difference in quality and you can get them pretty cheap on ebay (like $4-5 each if I remember). I normally have issues getting the couplers off from the silicone sticking to the pipe maybe bc they are black coated... dunno.
I guess I failed at showing lack of space. I should have showed it with the coupler on the pipe. I literally had to use a chisel to get the worm clamp onto the coupler lol. I agree T-bolts ftw. I'm sure I'll solve this location and another will pop up haha, but at least I'll be able to work out the bugs.
I get that its all already done, but i would think you would be doing yourself a favor to consider removing that pipe and redoing it. if its as strong as you are claiming, it sounds heavy as well, and there shouldn't be a reason for that to be so strong and heavy.
I get that its all already done, but i would think you would be doing yourself a favor to consider removing that pipe and redoing it. if its as strong as you are claiming, it sounds heavy as well, and there shouldn't be a reason for that to be so strong and heavy.
STS used it as a selling point. It's not just the cold pipe. Its a triangulated subframe connector as well. Otherwise it could have just been aluminum and saved 20 lbs lol.
I just did this at 11-12psi in 3rd gear only. Rings butted. Cyl7 of course. Pump gas. No meth.
had I been using meth or e85 it wouldn’t have happened I’m sure. O well.
Not to hijack but hopefully for good reference for all, any idea where ring gaps were at? Were 7 and 8 plugs showing more heat than others? Can you add fuel to rear cylinders only? Plan to do additional coolant flow hole mod in head gaskets?
your cold side is structural? you are a wild child
I like to party LOL, talk to STS. That's how they designed the kit however many years ago. I modified their kit as far as turbo location, output of the turbo to the "subframe cold side pipe", and then after the FMIC. Everything fits/tucks much better and I'm obviously running the LS7 MAF/4" tube over the stock stuff. About the only pipe I didn't touch is the subframe cold side pipe. You can see the top pipe in this pic: http://assets.superchevy.com/f/89381...640&height=426
Not to hijack but hopefully for good reference for all, any idea where ring gaps were at? Were 7 and 8 plugs showing more heat than others? Can you add fuel to rear cylinders only? Plan to do additional coolant flow hole mod in head gaskets?
I like to party LOL, talk to STS. That's how they designed the kit however many years ago. I modified their kit as far as turbo location, output of the turbo to the "subframe cold side pipe", and then after the FMIC. Everything fits/tucks much better and I'm obviously running the LS7 MAF/4" tube over the stock stuff. About the only pipe I didn't touch is the subframe cold side pipe. You can see the top pipe in this pic: http://assets.superchevy.com/f/89381...640&height=426
Thats what WS6Store was suggesting but that won't happen on this thick gauge steel pipe. I can literally jack up the car with this cold side pipe.
I've seen fools crush stainless pipe like yours with t-bolt clamps. Which I would have thought impossible....til I seen it.
If welding isnt an option, you could just as easily take the vise grips and flare out the end of that pipe. It wont be pretty, but it will create a lip of sorts. Although it will also make getting the coupler on a bit more difficult. Although you could leave the tight side flat to help with that.
Have seen people use rivets to create a bump...although that'd be a last DIY/Butcher resort.
But in the absence proper pipe prep/bead etc....yes a t-bolt may help as you can tighten the **** out of it.
it'd be interesting to log pressure at the compressor outlet, and at the intake, just to see how much is lost with a rear mount.
