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A 450 doesnt have a venturi and the stock regulator the way it returns isnt meant to work good enough to resupply the module.
And trying to pull more fuel that isnt there with another 255...thats trying to bandaid an issue. You wont use more than what that 450 can do at your level but youre asking alot from it that i have pointed out many times, the weak points in the system cant handle.
If your alternator cant keep 13.50v logged in hpt at mid to wide open throttle thats a huge issue also.
A 450 usually requires 22amps to run if not more. A 340 would be more than enough for your setup. I know you know this. And we have a 340 with venturi. So why jump to a 450? I thought you knew better.
This is the most I was able to make on a corvette regulator dead headed into stock TBSS rails.
Of course this was a heartbreaker dyno so 584 HP is roughly 650-670 dynojet numbers (12 - 15%). We didnt run out of fuel or anything, I only needed the 3 pulls to get it where he wanted it and he didnt want to go any further.
A 450 doesnt have a venturi and the stock regulator the way it returns isnt meant to work good enough to resupply the module.
And trying to pull more fuel that isnt there with another 255...thats trying to bandaid an issue. You wont use more than what that 450 can do at your level but youre asking alot from it that i have pointed out many times, the weak points in the system cant handle.
If your alternator cant keep 13.50v logged in hpt at mid to wide open throttle thats a huge issue also.
A 450 usually requires 22amps to run if not more. A 340 would be more than enough for your setup. I know you know this. And we have a 340 with venturi. So why jump to a 450? I thought you knew better.
450 is only going to pull that sort of current at very high pressures. I tested mine ages ago when I first fitted them, and At a normal 50psi or so they were only pulling around 13A each. I wouldnt expect them to exceed 20A until maybe 80-90psi
But yes, overkill for this application.
Why choose the vette reg ? are they very cheap or something ? Although I'd usually never say run 2 regs in one system, I guess it could be feasible for this application with a fixed base pressure. Although surely a cheapish generic aftermarket reg in-tank or near would be better anyway ?
And easier to then boost reference even if it meant a long hose.
I am NOT using the Vette regulator. Stock 98 intank regulator. I've done more than 1 setup with an intank 450 on an otherwise stock fuel system without issue....and 1 of those did have the Vette regulator. That's where the Vette reg talk came from. I do agree a return system with a boost referenced FPR would make this all go away. I just didn't think I was making enough power to warrant it....after all it's just a silly rear mount with a 7665 that everyone hates on Also the 255 is on the stock wiring and the 450 is on completely separate wiring straight from the alternator with a 25 amp fuse.
That said, Stevie does bring out a good point, I was so focused on the idle pressure that I didn't consider they're 2 separate events. Of course it's going to push through at idle and cruise, but it's really an 8 psi drop not 20 from what the reg is trying to achieve. We shall see. If I decide to turn up the boost more I'll have to go return style, but it's already destroying tires in 3rd. Going to try for a video later today....
You dont need to go return style in the normal sense....you can still dead end the rails with a better reg either in-tank or local to the tank, albeit that would require a return routed back into the tank. Just doesnt need to be at the front of the car.
A 450 doesnt have a venturi and the stock regulator the way it returns isnt meant to work good enough to resupply the module.
And trying to pull more fuel that isnt there with another 255...thats trying to bandaid an issue. You wont use more than what that 450 can do at your level but youre asking alot from it that i have pointed out many times, the weak points in the system cant handle.
If your alternator cant keep 13.50v logged in hpt at mid to wide open throttle thats a huge issue also.
A 450 usually requires 22amps to run if not more. A 340 would be more than enough for your setup. I know you know this. And we have a 340 with venturi. So why jump to a 450? I thought you knew better.
You dont need to go return style in the normal sense....you can still dead end the rails with a better reg either in-tank or local to the tank, albeit that would require a return routed back into the tank. Just doesnt need to be at the front of the car.
not sure I've ever seen that in an Fbody. I'll have to take a peek in the tank and see how I could make that happen.
I am NOT using the Vette regulator. Stock 98 intank regulator. I've done more than 1 setup with an intank 450 on an otherwise stock fuel system without issue....and 1 of those did have the Vette regulator. That's where the Vette reg talk came from. I do agree a return system with a boost referenced FPR would make this all go away. I just didn't think I was making enough power to warrant it....after all it's just a silly rear mount with a 7665 that everyone hates on Also the 255 is on the stock wiring and the 450 is on completely separate wiring straight from the alternator with a 25 amp fuse.
That said, Stevie does bring out a good point, I was so focused on the idle pressure that I didn't consider they're 2 separate events. Of course it's going to push through at idle and cruise, but it's really an 8 psi drop not 20 from what the reg is trying to achieve. We shall see. If I decide to turn up the boost more I'll have to go return style, but it's already destroying tires in 3rd. Going to try for a video later today....
I was only able to make real power dead heading the stock rails with an automotive regulator but it put me in the 9xx whp range.
Thoughts on feed through FPR vs. single ended? I've looked at how I can add a boost referenced FPR as minimally invasive as possible and I see 2 options. Both are pre-rails (not high HP so not worried). See below for the 2 diagrams, just looking for input on if 1 has any benefits over the other. Option 1 seems easier and is less of a "restriction" since its just a precision "leak" while option 2 has the FPR as a restriction.
OPTION 1- This is the easiest and essentially is singled-ended like the factory FPR just a Racetronix boost referenced FPR and bypass the intank.
OPTION 2- replaced the factory T-block with the Racetronix FPR. Not singled ended like option 1 is.
LOL, option 2 is definitely more traditional....but I realized that option 1 is the same as stock but with a better regulator so it SHOULD work with less restriction. It's easier for me to add it too....trying to get input from people who've either done both or can logically explain why option 1 is bad.
Its actually LESS work. I can remove a short section of return hose where it goes from Hardline to gm quick connect and put the regulator right there. Unclip the stock intank regulator and done. Removing the T block is a PITA with special fittings and now 3 lines have to be messed with. Then you still remove the stock regulator.
Also the 255 is on the stock wiring and the 450 is on completely separate wiring straight from the alternator with a 25 amp fuse.
