it doesnt need anything fancy. It's just a simple analogue voltage output.

It can happily be shared to a couple of devices if need be.

Lots of OEM cars now use a small hall effect current transducer to monitor current draw in the system, likely for smart charging etc, Holley are even reselling them now for logging purposes.

 

Thinking a DMM on the analog out of the splitcore would be enough to see if current is trending 1 way or the other.

 

yea, you could just stick a multimeter and monitor voltage output from the clamp meter. Nice to be able to record relative to all other engine aspects though

 

Yeah if I have to I can wire into an analog input of efi live but keeping it simple first and eye ball it. All of this also supposed that a thicker hot wire doesn't fix it.

 

If deadhead pressure is very similar at the start of and after idle test, I don't think you have a power problem to/from pump. Record deadhead pressure before starting your next idle test.

 

My deadhead pressure isn't an exact test to me. I'm just clamping the AN return line with some vice grips before it goes into the FPR. It gets me an idea but I don't think its going to be really accurate. I added a mechanical gauge to the rail where the transducer is to compare pressure.

EDIT.....or are you suggesting to keep it clamped from a cold start and watch for a change in fuel pressure? That would make more sense to me.

 

Do not keep it clamped. Clamp at beginning of test to record pressure then remove. Clamp after idle test reveals pressure drop. I would expect both deadhead pressures to be within 5 psi or so.

 

Ah I'm with you now.

 

How are you venting the tank? Loosen the gas cap when pressure drops and see if it’s a vent issue.

use a mechanical gauge to check pressure.

that’s all I got. Unless like I said before about a sticky injector.

 

It wont be injector related, tank vent possible, but the behaviour he's describing doesnt sound like it. Would be very easy just to leave cap loose for a test though.

 

Stock EVAP and vent setup. Just added a mechanical gauge at the rail in line with the transducer so I'll be able to compare. Good thought on the gas cap 👍 will try that.

 

Ok....update time.

#1 happy 10,000th post to me. It was only right it should be in 1 of my own threads Thanks to a lot of you for helping me along the way so I can A) have a fun hobby and B) pass along what I've learned and tried and help others.

Anyways, got the mechanical gauge on the car prior to upgrading the hot wire and confirmed it would slowly drop with idle time, so it's not a transducer issue. No change with the gas cap vent either. I put a 10awg wire from the alternator to the trunk (still a couple inches of 12awg at the alternator due to the inline fuse wire, but mostly 10awg) Im seeing almost half a volt increase at the fuel pump now. After a 15 min idle I'm seeing 13.5v instead of 12.9/13v. Didn't have my laptop with me but the mechanical gauge did appear to show it was approximately the same as at the start and my AFR didn't lean out as much. I will confirm with the transducer when I have my laptop. I'm not claiming victory until I do some driving and stop and go, but feel more comfortable about turning the boost up

 

Great news!

Just make sure it stays at nearly 13.5 the whole time. There is no reason it should dip below that as thats what the alternator normally puts out 13.5/14.2 avg depending on how the field coil circuit is operating.

 

Well good news and bad. I definitely think I have a battery/alternator issue. From the beginning on the latest log to the end, PCB battery voltage drops from 14V to ~13.1. Voltage at the pump drops to 13.3 or so. Better than before, but I think its a charging issue. Fuel pressure drop was less and slower than prior to the hot wire upgrade. At least I know where to go from here. On the plus side, I moved the wastegate vacuume line to the dome instead to see if I could make more than 10 psi. I went from 0 to 14 psi and blew a coupler real quick Time for a boost controller so I can turn it up once I get a new alternator/battery. I was concerned that the 7665 wouldn't make more than 10 psi. Progress so I'll take it. Also have to get a video up.

 

Are you using alum piping? If so, do the crimp plier mod to the end of the pipes and have less issue blowing them off. Cheap and easy.

At least you've got a good direction. I was pretty certain based off what you were saying its charging system related.

Good luck!

 

Good thought on the crimpers but that sts pipe is thick gauge steel. I can literally jack the car up with my cold side pipe 😂 I happen to watch an old episode of that Holly Engine show on MotorTrend and he had a good tip of throwing a bunch of tack welds on a steel tube to act like a rib at the end of the pipe. Going to give that a whirl. Excited to turn this thing up. Anyone else with your pistons and gaskets above 10 psi?

 

We have so many out its hard to say.
Had a guy on a 250-300 shot on our gaskets last yr it ran almost a whole season.

Steel then tack welds are ok but a half bead or a few long beads would be good. Or some heat and a crescent wrench to bend it up/bell at the end.

 

You can weld a couple of small beads easy enough.

There's no excuse for hoses popping off at only 14psi though

 

Actually THIS coupler is explainable....Honestly its an inherent deficiency in where/how STS did their piping. I'll snag a pic tonight and show you. Essentially the pipe that acts as a subframe connector ends still in between the frame rail so there is zero room to get a coupler on there with a clamp. I did some "massaging" to get the coupler on there, but I'm going to swap to a T-bolt clamp and add some beads and do some more massaging to get it in there better. Thankfully I've got a quick jack now to get the car in the air so it makes life easier.

 

What about pistons? Anyone else north of 600whp with RPM Speed non-forged pistons?