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I've regular stainless worm drives on all my "hot" side boost pipes...ie before the IC. Never had any issues even to 30psi boost.
On the larger post IC side just using the Breeze constant torque clamps. Obviously the larger the hose, the higher the forces acting.
T-Bolts can be useful...a lot of them are very poor design though, and do not seal properly...and often even worse on smaller hoses. And all too often their biggest downside...although it's largely the users, is they tighten them far too much which crushes the base pipe and again causes leaks or insecure pipes.
A good t-bolt needs to have a very thin band with no or very discrete overlaps.
I've used a lot more boost on other engines with them.
Clamps are important....but perhaps of more importance is hose prep. Which is basically a good base pipe with a bead, and spotlessly clean. Some in the past have used hairspray, but that can be quite sticky to get off again.
And often people use the likes of silicone or WD to get a tight hose on...which is obviously a disaster. I've actually found brake cleaner to be good to lubricate briefly to get a difficult hose on. Of course it dries up very quick....but in doing so, also ensures a good clean secure fitting.
Good thought on the crimpers but that sts pipe is thick gauge steel. I can literally jack the car up with my cold side pipe 😂 I happen to watch an old episode of that Holly Engine show on MotorTrend and he had a good tip of throwing a bunch of tack welds on a steel tube to act like a rib at the end of the pipe. Going to give that a whirl. Excited to turn this thing up. Anyone else with your pistons and gaskets above 10 psi?
I just did this at 11-12psi in 3rd gear only. Rings butted. Cyl7 of course. Pump gas. No meth.
had I been using meth or e85 it wouldn’t have happened I’m sure. O well.
Lol to worm pics. I'll see how the tack works but for just this point a t bolt is cheap insurance to stop it from blowing since the location is susceptible.
Kfx....I'm using rpm speed pistons, not forged. Should be interesting. I've done 15-16 psi 93 only in a forged 383 and 19 psi on a gen 4 5.3, but nothing higher than 10 psi on 93 only no meth in a stock 5.7.
Last edited by ddnspider; Jan 13, 2020 at 03:54 PM.
Lol to work pics. I'll see how the tack works but for just this point a t bolt is cheap insurance to stop it from blowing since the location is susceptible.
Kfx....I'm using rpm speed pistons, not forged. Should be interesting. I've done 15-16 psi 93 only in a forged 383 and 19 psi on a gen 4 5.3, but nothing higher than 10 psi on 93 only no meth in a stock 5.7.
well I’m pretty sure I know what all caused this. On 93, it made too much heat above 10psi. Because I didn’t GAp the rings, they butted. Taking the top ring land out. I’d like to point out something that is not really mentioned (that I’ve read). The top ring land on a flat top 5.7 is much thinner than the ring land on a stock 5.3 dished piston. Not only does that make for a weaker piston top, there’s less metal in the piston in the area before the ring....and that less metal will heat up much faster and transfer it to the top rings. And cylinder 7 is known for being the first to go. Next time I build one of these motors and port the heads, I will purposely make the no. 7 intake port flow less air. I’m going to research and see if I can get one heat range colder plug for this cylinder and I’m going to add the rear steam post crossover. Every little bit helps I guess.
oops. We getting off track. I just wanted to let you know what happened to mine because you asked. But then after I posted I noticed you posted in my thread. So I know you saw what happened,.....but it was too late by that time.
Thankfully when we did the rebuild on my ls6 I went with a wider gap JUST IN CASE lol. Knew I couldn't stay away from boost for forever. I also run the ls1 steam crossover. Lot of mixed thoughts on it but my thought is that getting coolant and air pockets from the back to the radiator can't hurt.
FYI....here is where the coupler goes. Basically no room for a clamp once you get the coupler on. 8mm socket for reference of the lack of space. Prying on the pipe and the frame gave me a bit of space so hopefully the tacks/beads do the trick. I can solder like nobodies business but welding is another planet haha.
#7 and 8 get hotter due to steam pockets and no water circulation. Thats why the water collection kits are so important.
As far as the ring land area or top ring down info, im not so sure about that.
The ch on our 5.3l pistons are 1.323 to 1.328 depending on floating or press pin and 1.330 on 5.7 with floating or press pin. Thats of course just on paper. In reality its more like 1.339 on this 3.898 5.7 piston. As you can see, there is a difference. I dont have all top down measurements but can get the 5.7 right now at roughly .203 which is substantial. Thats on a 3.898 piston going in this iron 5.7 im building. Ill try to get 5.3l tomorrow.
Not every piston is designed the same and not every internet article is right. I can measure a stock 5.3l dished piston tomorrow out of an 02 truck. Ill try to get the aftermarket measurement also. maybe even find a stock flat top 5.3 floating pin style if im lucky and didnt toss em.
Maybe i wont post em up in here as i dont wanna garble this thread up.
I don't mind a short update specific to the pistons. I "think" I'm 1 of the few pushing your pistons with ~600whp and turning it up so having data about them would be interesting.
On my front I ordered a DB Alternator that's 130A to give me a charging boost....and a manual boost controller as a cheap way to make sure I can turn it up to what I want without having to add dome pressure.
Interesting, haven't heard of anyone doing 30 psi on worm clamps. Pretty impressive!
been doing on my evo for like 5 years. im just as surprised as you, but they were there when i got the car and why fix what isnt broken? actually i usually fix things until they're broken but not in this case.
