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The Y pipe comes with the cat delete pipes as a kit.
i just bought one used and wanted to see if anyone has one just to make sure i got the correct one for my 02 cause theres 2 versions one for the 98-99 part # 88027 and 00-02 part # 88028
His entire argument around why worm clamps were better was because the t bolt was too wide to fit over the lip. That doesn't make the t-bolt bad and worm clamp good it just means there's not enough room to use a better clamp. Of course if the space behind the lip isn't wide enough for a t bolt then it's not the correct solution for that application.
Inadequate clamping surface is a poor reason to dislike a clamp.
guy is dumb. But he makes videos so he must be smart.
I can post on YouTube why ketchup is the best assembly lube for sbe 5.3s and nobody can stop me.
His entire argument around why worm clamps were better was because the t bolt was too wide to fit over the lip. That doesn't make the t-bolt bad and worm clamp good it just means there's not enough room to use a better clamp. Of course if the space behind the lip isn't wide enough for a t bolt then it's not the correct solution for that application.
If you watched it, no it isnt.
That was one area where the wide band was totally inappropriate. But he also showed how idiots can easily crush and destroy the hard pipes etc etc Although he didnt touch on the fact some t-bolt clamps are just a terrible design from the outset. And more often than not, the type of person who immediately seeks out a t-bolt clamp, wouldnt be aware of the good and bad. Hence I see loads of people running those huge Mikalor style clamps, which are really intended for exhausts or some sort of commercial hydraulic hose.
Which are utterly crap for boost pipes, and all too often leak.
Inadequate clamping surface is a poor reason to dislike a clamp.
guy is dumb. But he makes videos so he must be smart.
I can post on YouTube why ketchup is the best assembly lube for sbe 5.3s and nobody can stop me.
Clearly you didnt watch or understand the video either !
That was one area where the wide band was totally inappropriate. But he also showed how idiots can easily crush and destroy the hard pipes etc etc Although he didnt touch on the fact some t-bolt clamps are just a terrible design from the outset. And more often than not, the type of person who immediately seeks out a t-bolt clamp, wouldnt be aware of the good and bad. Hence I see loads of people running those huge Mikalor style clamps, which are really intended for exhausts or some sort of commercial hydraulic hose.
Which are utterly crap for boost pipes, and all too often leak.
I grabbed one of those Mikalors by accident once... leaked like crazy! Regular *** worm clamp is 100x better.
Originally Posted by ddnspider
I don't think the Alky kit is special.....all I said was that it wasn't an on/off switch like some base kits, i.e. its more complicated than dumping meth at xx psi. No more, no less. The Alky Control kits are pricey for sure and include braided line etc which is nice. The in-cabin adjustment is also nice, but progressive is progressive is progressive.
Most of the Alky kit looks like it's spare parts from the same store you get those Mikalor clamps from. Anyways, I would grab the AEM controller for $150 or less and be done with it.
I haven't kept up has this thing made any sort of decent boost yet? Or you keeping with the tradition of the rear mount guys and running sub 200kpa?
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I can post on YouTube why ketchup is the best assembly lube for sbe 5.3s and nobody can stop me.
Please do it and post the vid!
Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
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I haven't kept up has this thing made any sort of decent boost yet? Or you keeping with the tradition of the rear mount guys and running sub 200kpa?
I've hit 16 psi on 93 only.....I had to order 275/55/16 M/T's so I can finally try and get some traction to get the tune finished at "higher" boost. I want to tune it on 93 only so the meth is just for cooling and cushion instead of being relied upon.
Night and day difference with the car now that it has traction....28 inch tire filling the wheel well. With traction now man it pulls.
Meth kit almost done being install. Adding some features for safety reasons. I had an N2O solenoid laying around so the pump and solenoid must be activated for flow to happen. Also there's a pressure switch on the output of the solenoid that I'll wire to an LED or something so at WOT if that light is on them I know I have flow. Maybe Overkill but I deal with failsafe systems at work and this is the bare minimum. Then I can start turning it up since I had to change the MAF curve now with traction.
It's a 50 psi sensor. Enough to know the motor is actually pushing fluid instead of just trying to measure current flow of the pump which doesn't guarantee anything.
Looking for opinions....The manual controller doesn't seem to be adding boost even when cranked. Max boost is about 10 psi. What I think is going on is that the boost controller is just a precision leak to require more boost to push the wastegate spring open. But if the spring can't keep the wastegate closed against the back pressure, then a manual boost controller will do exactly nothing. I believe I proved this when I added some pressure to the dome and saw 16 psi. So either I need a bigger turbine, add a controller to add dome pressure, or add more spring pressure to force it to stay closed. Sound about right?
how is the wastegate hooked up? it seems like it shouldnt have much back pressure by the time it gets all the way to the back of the car. lots of heat lost in that.
how is the wastegate hooked up? it seems like it shouldnt have much back pressure by the time it gets all the way to the back of the car. lots of heat lost in that.
Just the traditional inline bleed type manual controller to the side port of the WG, vented top port. Its a 7665, so small turbine to account for being in the back, but from searching apparently BP can still be an issue if the motor is healthy and the turbine is too small.
Try using an open T in the wastegate line. Essentially doing the same thing as your manual controller. Could rule out a bad controller. Especially if it's a cheap one.
Try using an open T in the wastegate line. Essentially doing the same thing as your manual controller. Could rule out a bad controller. Especially if it's a cheap one.
I've yanked the side port all together and it would only make 10 psi. That's why I'm pretty sure its a back pressure issue.
the ttf link is how ive done mine in the past and had good luck. ive never used a bleed like you are, but it just doesnt seem like a very effective approach to me. using an orifice instead of a real diaphragm regulator is kinda cheesy considering its never a fixed pressure system.
Anyways, I would grab the AEM controller for $150 or less and be done with it. 
