Build the 5.3 or go ls3?
Build the 5.3 or go ls3? So, this is a few months down the road. But I'm undecided. I can go a few different ways. I already have an aluminum 5.3 sitting on the stand. Complete, good short block. I'm eventually wanting to put this 3700lb pig, or dumptruck as someone ignorantly called it....in the 9's. 9.99 would make me happy. The setup right now, i'm shooting for mid to high 10's. I'm sure its there, just havent got a updated time slip on it yet. I want it to trap 140+...and I know I have alot of work to do, and my work cutout for me (drivetrain and fuel system needs addressing). but heres what I'm considering. Pump 93 with meth will be used..
1) do forged pistons and H beam rods in this 5.3 and a freshen up. then just turn up the boost.
OR
2) build a stroker out of the 5.3 and not have to boost it quite as much.
Or
3) Sell 5.3 and buy a Ls3 and freshen it up and go with that.
Street car, driven ALOT.
I do not plan on using a different cam. I want my drivebility and tameness. I'll probably use these nicely ported 243's on either combo.
what say you?
1) do forged pistons and H beam rods in this 5.3 and a freshen up. then just turn up the boost.
OR
2) build a stroker out of the 5.3 and not have to boost it quite as much.
Or
3) Sell 5.3 and buy a Ls3 and freshen it up and go with that.
Street car, driven ALOT.
I do not plan on using a different cam. I want my drivebility and tameness. I'll probably use these nicely ported 243's on either combo.
what say you?
So forged pistons, H beams and balancing is the route?
Thats actually not a bad idea. I never really considered selling the 5.7 because having a spare motor is something ive always done, just in case. I could probably get decent money for this motor tho. Something to consider.
So forged pistons, H beams and balancing is the route?
So forged pistons, H beams and balancing is the route?
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 48
Those strokers never seem to run very good, seeing people go 7s-8s with stone stock 5.3s make me question the necessity of all the extra. Pull the 5.3 down, gap the rings, and boost it till you knock the main caps out of it. If I remember correctly, those GTOS use half shafts right? I'd have to wonder just how much those can take before they check out. But really, I think what you have under your hood now will carry you to 140 should you get the fueling/tune squared away, and really start leaning on the car.
Those strokers never seem to run very good, seeing people go 7s-8s with stone stock 5.3s make me question the necessity of all the extra. Pull the 5.3 down, gap the rings, and boost it till you knock the main caps out of it. If I remember correctly, those GTOS use half shafts right? I'd have to wonder just how much those can take before they check out. But really, I think what you have under your hood now will carry you to 140 should you get the fueling/tune squared away, and really start leaning on the car.
I have no issues saving money for sure. I may just throw a 4th gen rotating assembly in this 5.3 then. Upgrade fuel system and upgrade the rear end ****.
Those strokers never seem to run very good, seeing people go 7s-8s with stone stock 5.3s make me question the necessity of all the extra. Pull the 5.3 down, gap the rings, and boost it till you knock the main caps out of it. If I remember correctly, those GTOS use half shafts right? I'd have to wonder just how much those can take before they check out. But really, I think what you have under your hood now will carry you to 140 should you get the fueling/tune squared away, and really start leaning on the car.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 82
Likes: 3
Those strokers never seem to run very good, seeing people go 7s-8s with stone stock 5.3s make me question the necessity of all the extra. Pull the 5.3 down, gap the rings, and boost it till you knock the main caps out of it. If I remember correctly, those GTOS use half shafts right? I'd have to wonder just how much those can take before they check out. But really, I think what you have under your hood now will carry you to 140 should you get the fueling/tune squared away, and really start leaning on the car.
The same bearings right back in the same place? Thnx
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Junkie
Joined: Jul 2015
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Depends on how the bearings look, if they look good.... leave em in play. But yea, pull it apart gap the rings, and roll out. Or, if you have the cash, build it and it will be there from now on.
The original 1000hp aftermarket options ARE what I am talking about. They were modified 930 halfshafts. I have no knowledge of whether or not anyone actually had dedicated GTO halfshafts fabricated. As to what had to be modified, I never got too deep into the specifics. I can tell you that MT/DRs will twist the splines on the stock ones with anything much more than stock power. In my case, the CV joints broke before the twisted splines caused a problem. As an annoying coincidence, the only track footage I ever saw of my car was when the CV broke on a 1-2 shift. The rearmount never built boost before the launch (no 2 step), so the 1-2 shift was what really hammered the drivetrain. I think you are an a4, so your rear parts might survive a little longer.
The original 1000hp aftermarket options ARE what I am talking about. They were modified 930 halfshafts. I have no knowledge of whether or not anyone actually had dedicated GTO halfshafts fabricated. As to what had to be modified, I never got too deep into the specifics. I can tell you that MT/DRs will twist the splines on the stock ones with anything much more than stock power. In my case, the CV joints broke before the twisted splines caused a problem. As an annoying coincidence, the only track footage I ever saw of my car was when the CV broke on a 1-2 shift. The rearmount never built boost before the launch (no 2 step), so the 1-2 shift was what really hammered the drivetrain. I think you are an a4, so your rear parts might survive a little longer.
You had a rear rear mount on a gto? I’d be interested in pics.
I guess ive just been lucky so far. My next purchase will be inner stubs then outer stubs. I have spare axles. After those break, or maybe before, I’ll replace the axles too. I don’t have a two step so I leave in vacuum only pulling 1.7 60 ft’s. I am going to add more boost in first gear so maybe I’ll get that down to a 1.6 but I’m not interested in leaving hard because parts won’t last at my power level. I hope to make up the time on the other end with high mph. I’ve always been one to worry about mph vs et because most street races around here are from a roll anyways.
Why not keep running the motor in the car now? SBE GTO record is 9.43 at 143 mph and that was with an F1a-94 so I’d figure with a turbo 140 mph should be doable.
Back in the day the first 9 second GTO was a rear mount sts kit. Outer stubs are the least of your concerns and the most difficult thing to replace. I ran hundreds of 1.5x 60’ times on stock outer stubs.
Back in the day the first 9 second GTO was a rear mount sts kit. Outer stubs are the least of your concerns and the most difficult thing to replace. I ran hundreds of 1.5x 60’ times on stock outer stubs.
Why not keep running the motor in the car now? SBE GTO record is 9.43 at 143 mph and that was with an F1a-94 so I’d figure with a turbo 140 mph should be doable.
Back in the day the first 9 second GTO was a rear mount sts kit. Outer stubs are the least of your concerns and the most difficult thing to replace. I ran hundreds of 1.5x 60’ times on stock outer stubs.
Back in the day the first 9 second GTO was a rear mount sts kit. Outer stubs are the least of your concerns and the most difficult thing to replace. I ran hundreds of 1.5x 60’ times on stock outer stubs.
If you drive the car to the track I'd spend money on the driveline for sure while continuing to run the stock motor. I take pride in driving to and from the track even though I have friends with truck/trailors ready to come get me. This is my current setup and I have $2500 in it. The rebuilt diff with spool plus brand new never ran level 2 gforce stubs cost me $900 to my door and I bought the driveshaft and half shafts new from a non-sponsor for lower than the DSS price with free shipping as well. If you trailer the car I'd do a driveshaft with safety loop and then run the rest of the stock stuff as it might hold up better than you think.
With an A4 and no wheel hop with 1.7x 60's you may be fine with stock stuff actually. For safety I'd at least do a drive shaft that is something I don't want to worry about. The posi units are hit or miss some last well into the 9's on A4 cars others do the one wheel peel in the 11's. I've replaced both of mine almost immediately so I didn't have to worry about it. First car was a kaaz posi and I loved that thing just not the $1100 price tag. This time around I got a deal on a low mile diff out of an 05 with a spool and fresh rebuild for cheap so I went that route.
If you drive the car to the track I'd spend money on the driveline for sure while continuing to run the stock motor. I take pride in driving to and from the track even though I have friends with truck/trailors ready to come get me. This is my current setup and I have $2500 in it. The rebuilt diff with spool plus brand new never ran level 2 gforce stubs cost me $900 to my door and I bought the driveshaft and half shafts new from a non-sponsor for lower than the DSS price with free shipping as well. If you trailer the car I'd do a driveshaft with safety loop and then run the rest of the stock stuff as it might hold up better than you think.
If you drive the car to the track I'd spend money on the driveline for sure while continuing to run the stock motor. I take pride in driving to and from the track even though I have friends with truck/trailors ready to come get me. This is my current setup and I have $2500 in it. The rebuilt diff with spool plus brand new never ran level 2 gforce stubs cost me $900 to my door and I bought the driveshaft and half shafts new from a non-sponsor for lower than the DSS price with free shipping as well. If you trailer the car I'd do a driveshaft with safety loop and then run the rest of the stock stuff as it might hold up better than you think.
Pm me who you got your half shafts from. I was trying to keep the stock driveshaft because 1) don’t want vibration and 2) I believe the stock shaft takes the harshness out of the drivetrain and limits shock.