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Do you mean drop time out of these cells here for gear change or coming off the throttle?
So you think drop the time quicker from 5# to 8# then slowly lower to my current 14@14.
haven't driven it yet. I'll load it to the ecu this week.
Yes I had to drop timing out of those cells for a gear change because it would hit those cells right at the gear shift. Should only happen on a stick.
May try gaping plug wider. IMO once tuned on a 7, I throw in an 8 heat range plug. Iridium's are the easiest, but $6-8 a plug. I think the idle quality is better with them and I like an 8 heat range plug for a little extra piece of mind. Only reason to run a hot plug is to prevent fouling at cruise. E85 doesn't really do that, so no reason not to run a cooler plug that I'm aware of.
If it's speckling a cylinder DEF drop timing out. But I'd concentrate at peak TQ rpm ranges and boost higher than 4-5lbs. Can your ecu add fuel to specific cylinders? may add 5% DC or so to that cyl as well if so.
No solid answer there... less is best. 2:1 or greater and your done for the most part. A lot will depend on the cam and overlap. Do you have a smoothing option on the Holley? That's a heck of a bounce in that signal. Where do you tap for BP?
Hotter plug is not the answer... it won't help anything.
I've seen a lot of theories and fixes. Many will tell you you need the crazy expensive IGN1 coils. I'd avoid that route personally. A friend found that the wiring harness supplies pretty poor voltage/current to the coils and injector circuits. He re-wired his and it corrected his issues. 2 New 30A relays powering coils and igniters with nice 10g wiring and grounds.
Also many report that the supposed power house D585 coils aren't that great. They say the standard old style square truck coils (D581 I think?) are superior as you can really crank the dwell on them and not have to worry about them auto firing. I've heard as high as 7ms dwell on the D581. Ignition problems are super common on the Holleys if you search around yellow bullet or here. Not sure what the deal is... Some have problems, some don't. I've been pretty luck with the MS3 stuff and never had an issue. Its a Holley thing...
NGK 5044 BR8EIX is what i run. SHop around shouldn't pay more than $6-7 a plug. They really aren't going to make a noticeable difference in overall sprk strength though. I like to tune on the br7's (cheap) and drop these in after wards. They are 1 range colder (which only affects the temp the plug runs at, not spark strength). I like that they are 1 range colder resisted plugs, and my idle is improved. But... they also come pre-gapped @ .031 and you aren't really supposed to gap iridium plugs. its very hard to "ungap" them if you accidentally go too tight without damaging the tiny electrode. Really don't think any type of plug will magically fix your spark.
I'd test your theory, its quick and free. Gap them to .015 or even less. See if it goes away completely.
What coils? What are your dwell times? what wires? What is your actual limiter set at? Do you have a "soft limit" set? I'm not super familiar with the Holley. May also check your voltage at 6800. If it drops to something goofy and your injector dead times or coils are setup oddly at lower voltage it can cause issues like you describe.
NGK 5044 BR8EIX is what i run. SHop around shouldn't pay more than $6-7 a plug. They really aren't going to make a noticeable difference in overall sprk strength though. I like to tune on the br7's (cheap) and drop these in after wards. They are 1 range colder (which only affects the temp the plug runs at, not spark strength). I like that they are 1 range colder resisted plugs, and my idle is improved. But... they also come pre-gapped @ .031 and you aren't really supposed to gap iridium plugs. its very hard to "ungap" them if you accidentally go too tight without damaging the tiny electrode. Really don't think any type of plug will magically fix your spark.
I'd test your theory, its quick and free. Gap them to .015 or even less. See if it goes away completely.
What coils? What are your dwell times? what wires? What is your actual limiter set at? Do you have a "soft limit" set? I'm not super familiar with the Holley. May also check your voltage at 6800. If it drops to something goofy and your injector dead times or coils are setup oddly at lower voltage it can cause issues like you describe.
I didn't realize they made a resistive 8 range plug, good tip!
If I had to. 015 and it goes away which I've done , seems to be good on test.
what does that mean though, why am I having such low voltage.
how much voltage shud I have while boosting. With fans on etc I'm at 13.7volts.
msd 8.5 custom wires.
original ls2 coils off a running car.
dwell times are not set, just got it under GM coils.
so not sure what that would mean on the ecu.
What are you experiencing that you refer to spark blow out? What rpm does the problem occur at? Can you log fuel and timing to see what's going on? Log system voltage to know what alt is doing at higher rpm. Should be at least 13.2V or greater. If it's not, alternator at high rpm can't keep up. Compliments of F86 https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...-wot-only.html
fuel pressure
volts
timing are all good on the data log
spark blow out feels exactly like the rev limiter except starts at 5000 ish but continues to climb in revs , can definitely feel a bit o power loss. so im thinking either its a very weak spark or its just 1 cylinder maybe.
5500 in 1st and up
then into 2nd at 5000 and its there the whole time.
backpressure in top gear is more like 1.6 / 1.7 ish
Check voltage at coils with a meter, see if there is any voltage drop. Ensure good grounds. I swear its a software/setting issue. There is nothing wrong with driving around with your gaps at .015 or even less. IF the car idles well and behaves... It really doesn't matter. I'd also check on your dwell. see what "GM" means in terms of dwell. See if you can manually change input dwell in any way? I'm not super familiar with Holley. But I know they almost always have IGN issues like this.
Hmm that’s pretty weird. I had a strange thing happen with mine yesterday. Was playing with stuff to build more boost on the foot brake. I left on 9psi and it tapped the 7k limiter a couple times and almost like... ignition cut. Came back on around 1900 rpms.
You can see in the log where I have a strange sudden dip in the boost And the rpms drop like a rock, picking back up at 1900rpms
Gaps at .015 no dramas so far and seems to idle not bad now.
When you tune the spark table and checking plugs.
is it the same in first gear or do you need to be in Top Gear to have full load on the motor.
Can you hook up to a laptop and access the advanced menu for ignition settings? I'm told you can see what the dwell is at and adjust it there. I'm curious what it's at now.
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