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That looks like little detonation ***** of alum sticking to the plug to me? Do you have little white specks like that on any other plugs?
Id say that injector may be bunk? Before seeing that plug I'd say your WAAAAY to soft on the tune up. But I wouldn't run it any harder until you figure that out. Thats pretty bad if it's detonation. I'd turn the boost down. Swap out that plug with new. Then swap #8 coil, wire, and injector to #1. See if the problem follows.
Once thats corrected up, your 14 lbs rows looks like a 25lb tune up.
This all assumes your still on E85. Also have you tested your "E85" do you know the ethanol content?
Change your AFR targets to 12.0 up to 5lbs... 11.5 to 15lbs.... You should have over boost enabled.
Even your 100KPA (NA tune up) row is low. Usually they like 30-34* depending on the setup. If you have a lazy tune in it NA, it will transition to boost lazy. You should still have NA timing in it up to 5lbs or so.
The entire timing map is low, you could likely add 3-4* everywhere. But your pre pk TQ timing should be higher, drop to your "safe level" at PK TQ, then ramp back up. Dont run "low timing" the entire row and ramp back in only after pk tq.
You have what i'd consider a get to the dyno/track overly safe tune up. Which is fine. Get that plug sorted, that cyl, doesnt' look happy. Once that's done address the tune and do it slowly. I'd add 2* to the entire map before PKTQ. 2* to the 100KPA entire row. and 1 degree at a time after pk tq checking the plugs or watching it close on a dyno.
Good luck!
Last edited by Forcefed86; Jul 31, 2020 at 11:41 AM.
this is new plug only pulled #2
only 1 heat cycle with a few WOT max boost pulls on the highway.
im getting some popping now in the exhaust at max boost too , nothing loud or what seems to take power so maybe just too rich there , otherwise i will gap the plugs down to .015" like u suggested.
ill drop the boost down a touch and then try leaning out the fuel a touch.
yeah im getting 80-81%ethanol
whats the #4-#1 swap about ??
thanks , ill keep at it , im trying to get it on a diferent dyno but i get the feeling that will lead nowhere except waste my money
Sorry, I Thought that speckled plug was the #4. Swap the #7 components to a known good cylinder. Swap the coil, injector, and wire. That way if the problem follows to the new cylinder... You know it's your coil, injector, or wire. I'd guess that cylinder is somehow lean and detonating. NO reason for it to with that tune up.
It's actually #8 .
not that I really know the difference but that specks u see on the plug are all like a soft liquid rather than specks of aluminium or anything.
I'll pull that plug again now with the new one see what' it's like.
Thats about a perfect street plug IMO. That white speckling still makes me nervous. The alum melts during detonation, looks just like that. It's odd that that 1 cyl is doing it is all. Usually points to a lean cylinder. LIke maybe 7 cyls are running richer than your commanded AFR and that 1 is super lean. SO when the 8 average your WB02 says all is well. WIth the aftermarket ECU's you can add extra duty cycle to lean cylinders. WIhtout that ability I'd still swap injector/coiul etc from the problem cylinder to another. Maybe clean that injector while it's out just to be "safe". Have it flowed? or have them all flowed...
I have pulled all 8 new plugs they all virtually look the same. #7 both bit darker on the ring. They do have 2% more fuel.
was thinking to get rid of that as I run a victor 4150 style manifold with an elbow which maybe doesn't lean the back cylinders as much as the ls plastic manifolds.
I've gained the plugs to. 016
I'll test this out today see what happens..
gapped to .016"
leaned out to 12afr upto 4.8psi , leaned out a touch above a that
also put in some more time at 100kpa and a little more from 0-4250rpm with boost.
definitely has picked up some extra power and the popping has gone away.
spark plugs all have a colour change on the ground strap before the bend. all cylinders have equal fueling now on the ecu.
no colour on the porcelain or threads at this stage though.
im thinking might just need to muck around with this wastegate to get it any better now
should i be opening up that spark plug gap some more to see whn it encounters a problem or is it fine to leave it tight ?
whats the benefit of a wider gap with power to spark that size ?
should i be opening up that spark plug gap some more to see whn it encounters a problem or is it fine to leave it tight ?
whats the benefit of a wider gap with power to spark that size ?
Leave the plug gap for now. Post your new timing map.
the idle seems to be a bit rougher , like not as strong .
could this be the plug gap? ive got it booked for another dyno tune soon , so hope to get some good power figures
So 28* at 100kpa is still super conservative. With a STG2 cam i'd suspect your peak torque timing is closer to 32*. You'll be able to tell on the dyno for sure. (some may peak at 28 just depends) You'll basically make linear leaps on power per degree...then it will level off and make very little power per degree. Stop when it levels off and drop a degree our or so.
Also I see your map jumps up a little from 3700 to 4700? this is likely where PK TQ is. You want a dip in your map there not a rise. Again you want to light the turbo off quick and hard. NA like timing to 5lbs (with a 2-3* dip around PK TQ then bump it back in to red line. 22* isn't NA timing. This is where you "light off" the turbo and will make the biggest impact on boost threshold. You likely have like 6-7* to work with there and that will make huge difference.
For a good test you could use shop air on the bottom port and hold the gate open for a run. See where it makes peak power timing wise. Thats basically where you should be to get the turbo lit. Once lit that's when your conservative "baby soft" timing comes into play.
Good luck!
Last edited by Forcefed86; Aug 3, 2020 at 03:38 PM.
Lol, that's a spicy meatball there! Driven it yet?
Usually once "lit" you can drop the *** out of it quick. I'd say from 8-13lbs you could prob back it off a degree or 2. Just have to drive it and see when it goes spool crazy. 15* at 15lbs is "generally* a pretty safe place.
The only other thing that I see is the lowest cells... I'm *told* and I wanted to verify this on here... that the only real time your in those load cells is when you let off after a pull and are in full vac. What I was told (which made sense to me but I have not verified) Is that you want those cells to be pretty conservative. As you'll be in a WOT big boost scenerio then let off immediately and it will drop down and throw 30* at the tune... possibly causing detonation. IDK how true this is, but I have my lower cells at 12*.
Do you mean drop time out of these cells here for gear change or coming off the throttle?
So you think drop the time quicker from 5# to 8# then slowly lower to my current 14@14.
haven't driven it yet. I'll load it to the ecu this week.
Pretty much! Every combo is different. Some setups are more sensitive to AFR than others. My rx7 picked up a full mph back to back leaning it out from 10.8ish to 11.5ish. My mustang could care less if it's at 11.0 or 12.0. So I run it at 11.0. 15lbs IMO is still reletivly low boost on E85. You shoudl be more than fine at 11.5 from 7.5 to 15.8psi... assuming all the plugs look relatively similar heat wise.
ended up taking a touch more time out , i was bit worried lol.
went a lot better , like heaps.
only things i have left is
#1 idle is pretty crap ??
#2 cylinder 1 has possibly some detonation peppering under on the porcelain under the strap area, couldnt get a photo too hard to get it clear. very hard to see well in real life.
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