Head Studs.....latest and greatest......
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My questions would be what's the power goal, do either CA625 or 1/2" noticeably increase clamp, and what heads are required to actually get useful deck thickness to make it all worth it. Spending $800+ on studs and $2000+ on heads seem like a boondoggle for meager power goals.
I remember a film paper test showing clamping load between stock, typical studs, and either CA 625 or 1/2" studs but not sure where it ended up. I think this was also brought up along lines of the ching chong studs vs ARP, and then multiple chimed in with chinese stuff going 8's so why spend 2-3x as more for ARP when its not the weak point unless investing in other hard parts. Then you have sloppy guys running 8's with stock bolts
I remember a film paper test showing clamping load between stock, typical studs, and either CA 625 or 1/2" studs but not sure where it ended up. I think this was also brought up along lines of the ching chong studs vs ARP, and then multiple chimed in with chinese stuff going 8's so why spend 2-3x as more for ARP when its not the weak point unless investing in other hard parts. Then you have sloppy guys running 8's with stock bolts
Engine is fully forged and ready, the rest of the car is ready.
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[QUOTE=stevieturbo;20203257]If you have the room and can ensure no debris gets anywhere that matters, potentially you could do it in situ. It would be very uncomfortable though.
[/QUOTE
The engine is coming out of the car no matter what. So does the engine have to be disassembled in any way, except for removing the heads to use the 1/2" head stud kit mentioned above and self-drill the holes...?
[/QUOTE
The engine is coming out of the car no matter what. So does the engine have to be disassembled in any way, except for removing the heads to use the 1/2" head stud kit mentioned above and self-drill the holes...?
Get a belly pan or diaper... its fun until you are sliding sideways at 130+ MPH when it gives up smoke. May not even take 40PSI... but most likely somewhere over 35 (maxed out 3.5Bar sensor).
I decided on the T6 93/102 BW in the S400 chassis. I want well over 1,000 RWHP. So I need to use whatever head studs are going to give me the best result in clamping force.....without swapping over to a 6-bolt block. Heads will be thick deck heads of course.
Engine is fully forged and ready, the rest of the car is ready.
Engine is fully forged and ready, the rest of the car is ready.
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My engine is coming out of the car so they can install my BMR Turbo-member. So this Tick 1/2" stud kit will work fine.
But then the heads need to be drilled also...... If I just use the CA 625 stud kit, the job is very simple.....so that may be best. Only if they give me the same clamping force as 1/2" studs do......
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Thew S400 chassis is the biggest turbo one that will fit with my Huron Speed single turbo T4 flange A/C kit. Plan to wack off the T4 flange of the turbo kit and weld on a T6 flange.
So its a good thing they stuffed these big *** wheels into this chassis,,,,,,,,,
So its a good thing they stuffed these big *** wheels into this chassis,,,,,,,,,
Bottom holes...? I thought the holes were all on the top of the block......
My engine is coming out of the car so they can install my BMR Turbo-member. So this Tick 1/2" stud kit will work fine.
But then the heads need to be drilled also...... If I just use the CA 625 stud kit, the job is very simple.....so that may be best. Only if they give me the same clamping force as 1/2" studs do......
My engine is coming out of the car so they can install my BMR Turbo-member. So this Tick 1/2" stud kit will work fine.
But then the heads need to be drilled also...... If I just use the CA 625 stud kit, the job is very simple.....so that may be best. Only if they give me the same clamping force as 1/2" studs do......
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He's talking about the bottom row of bolt holes in the block that fasten the head to the block. That row is closest to the body of the car giving less room for a drill. It doesn't matter if you're pulling the motor, but a right angle drill might fit if it was in the car.
I was reading about 1/2" studs and some were saying that by taking out that much material in so many places around the deck area....it weakens the block surface and could create issues in deck movement. I never heard of that happening. I guess with an iron block I'll be better off than an aluminum block regarding that.......
I still can't get anyone to confirm if the CA625 studs have the same clamping force (ft. lbs) as the 1/2" studs......if they do, then the 625's are the obvious better way to go. And no drilling out all that material from the deck. And not having to have the holes in the new heads drilled to 1/2".....
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From: Norn Iron
Gotcha.
I was reading about 1/2" studs and some were saying that by taking out that much material in so many places around the deck area....it weakens the block surface and could create issues in deck movement. I never heard of that happening. I guess with an iron block I'll be better off than an aluminum block regarding that.......
I still can't get anyone to confirm if the CA625 studs have the same clamping force (ft. lbs) as the 1/2" studs......if they do, then the 625's are the obvious better way to go. And no drilling out all that material from the deck. And not having to have the holes in the new heads drilled to 1/2".....
I was reading about 1/2" studs and some were saying that by taking out that much material in so many places around the deck area....it weakens the block surface and could create issues in deck movement. I never heard of that happening. I guess with an iron block I'll be better off than an aluminum block regarding that.......
I still can't get anyone to confirm if the CA625 studs have the same clamping force (ft. lbs) as the 1/2" studs......if they do, then the 625's are the obvious better way to go. And no drilling out all that material from the deck. And not having to have the holes in the new heads drilled to 1/2".....
Fitting 1/2" studs to the LS doesnt weaken anything
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Complete and utter nonsense, and as LS threads go down into the block, they dont actually pull on the deck hard like some other engines might. And I think even the new Dart blocks thread directly into the deck...which seems a negative point for them
Fitting 1/2" studs to the LS doesnt weaken anything
Fitting 1/2" studs to the LS doesnt weaken anything
ARP just replied to me, said the CA625's have almost the same torque specs as the 1/2" studs.
CA625's go 100 ft. lbs.
1/2" studs (8740 chromoly) go 100-110 ft. lbs.
But they said they can make a set of 1/2" studs with better material that can be torqued to 150 ft. lbs.
So, is more always better? Or can you have too much clamping force that can hurt anything?
Or....are the 100 ft. lbs. plenty for 21-22psi boost on a 4-bolt/cyl set up with a thick deck head?
honestly just do the 625s and be done. if u were that concerned u would be buying a 6 bolt block. gasket choice is important here too.....look into cometic MLX, I like how those look and would have used them in my NA build had I not needed a .040
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Yea, sounded odd.
ARP just replied to me, said the CA625's have almost the same torque specs as the 1/2" studs.
CA625's go 100 ft. lbs.
1/2" studs (8740 chromoly) go 100-110 ft. lbs.
But they said they can make a set of 1/2" studs with better material that can be torqued to 150 ft. lbs.
So, is more always better? Or can you have too much clamping force that can hurt anything?
Or....are the 100 ft. lbs. plenty for 21-22psi boost on a 4-bolt/cyl set up with a thick deck head?
ARP just replied to me, said the CA625's have almost the same torque specs as the 1/2" studs.
CA625's go 100 ft. lbs.
1/2" studs (8740 chromoly) go 100-110 ft. lbs.
But they said they can make a set of 1/2" studs with better material that can be torqued to 150 ft. lbs.
So, is more always better? Or can you have too much clamping force that can hurt anything?
Or....are the 100 ft. lbs. plenty for 21-22psi boost on a 4-bolt/cyl set up with a thick deck head?
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You might be overthinking this. Reused stock 11mm head bolts have been 1000whp with stock 317 heads (IIRC ~.4" deck). If you plan to go 35+psi with 4 bolt, get a pre 2004 block with the long head bolts down into the main webbing, do 1/2" head stud mod, thick deck heads, SCE Athena SS fire ring gaskets and good to go. If you really want to get crazy, get the heads cut and have top fuel hoops installed, block setup with receiver groove and Clark copper gaskets. Now your ready for 50+ psi and you can see what it takes to split a 5.3 block in half. Just make sure your rotating assembly can handle 2000hp.
