Head Studs.....latest and greatest......
is he talking about the custom age 625 ones? they are 400 ish bucks and part number starts with CA.....u torque them to 100 pounds
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So is this the right ones for my iron LQ9 block.........
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/ar...-234-4314.html
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/ar...-234-4314.html
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.....Anyone know if these will fit my LQ9.......no reply from Tooley.......
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/ar...-234-4314.html
https://www.briantooleyracing.com/ar...-234-4314.html
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Just used the Tick 1/2" plate kit to drill & tap an iron 6.0 block last night. It's a bit of work but the 1/2" studs are a good bit beefier. Whole kit with studs is cheaper than the 625's.
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Are the torque specs 100 ft/lbs for the 1/2” studs. If yes, then the 625’s are just a much easier and faster job. They are 100 ft/lbs each.
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From: Norn Iron
Does the block need to be bare to drill and install the 1/2” studs? Or can I simply remove my old heads, drill/install the 1/2” studs and put my new gaskets and heads on?
Are the torque specs 100 ft/lbs for the 1/2” studs. If yes, then the 625’s are just a much easier and faster job. They are 100 ft/lbs each.
Are the torque specs 100 ft/lbs for the 1/2” studs. If yes, then the 625’s are just a much easier and faster job. They are 100 ft/lbs each.
And what torque any stud can hold will depend on the quality of that stud. I'm going to guess the cheap Cleveland 1/2" studs I assume they are offering are just regular 8740....which really does question if it's worth it over the 625 11mm studs.
When I done my block for 1/2" I opted for the more expensive Viper studs in ARP2000 material. I think they quote you can go to around 120lbft, although I just took them to around 100.
I had tried to buy 625's...wasted a total of 6 months over 2 suppliers and gave up in the end and got refunds from both.
If using truck manifolds, I'd have concerns about Cleveland studs fitting without fouling on anything. They're a little longer than the Viper studs, and the Viper ones are damn tight for clearance on mine. The Viper ones are only a fraction longer than the LS studs
Does the block need to be bare to drill and install the 1/2” studs? Or can I simply remove my old heads, drill/install the 1/2” studs and put my new gaskets and heads on?
Are the torque specs 100 ft/lbs for the 1/2” studs. If yes, then the 625’s are just a much easier and faster job. They are 100 ft/lbs each.
Are the torque specs 100 ft/lbs for the 1/2” studs. If yes, then the 625’s are just a much easier and faster job. They are 100 ft/lbs each.
I remember a film paper test showing clamping load between stock, typical studs, and either CA 625 or 1/2" studs but not sure where it ended up. I think this was also brought up along lines of the ching chong studs vs ARP, and then multiple chimed in with chinese stuff going 8's so why spend 2-3x as more for ARP when its not the weak point unless investing in other hard parts. Then you have sloppy guys running 8's with stock bolts
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From: Norn Iron
I have the images from the paper film test somewhere.....somewhere. But I do recall that the 1/2" studs really did give a much better spread of clamp compared to the regular studs. No 625's back then though
And those were probably just regular 8740 1/2" too. I dont even think they used fancy heads for the test...cant recall.
Stock bolts ?
And those were probably just regular 8740 1/2" too. I dont even think they used fancy heads for the test...cant recall.
Stock bolts ?
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My questions would be what's the power goal, do either CA625 or 1/2" noticeably increase clamp, and what heads are required to actually get useful deck thickness to make it all worth it. Spending $800+ on studs and $2000+ on heads seem like a boondoggle for meager power goals.
I remember a film paper test showing clamping load between stock, typical studs, and either CA 625 or 1/2" studs but not sure where it ended up. I think this was also brought up along lines of the ching chong studs vs ARP, and then multiple chimed in with chinese stuff going 8's so why spend 2-3x as more for ARP when its not the weak point unless investing in other hard parts. Then you have sloppy guys running 8's with stock bolts
I remember a film paper test showing clamping load between stock, typical studs, and either CA 625 or 1/2" studs but not sure where it ended up. I think this was also brought up along lines of the ching chong studs vs ARP, and then multiple chimed in with chinese stuff going 8's so why spend 2-3x as more for ARP when its not the weak point unless investing in other hard parts. Then you have sloppy guys running 8's with stock bolts
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ead-studs.html
Thread with film paper pics. Post 41.