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Head Studs.....latest and greatest......

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Old 01-24-2020, 11:09 PM
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Default Head Studs.....latest and greatest......

A shop told me that ARP has made an OEM size head stud kit that has the same torque specs as 1/2" head studs provide.......

True......? I can't find them.
Old 01-24-2020, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by stilealive
A shop told me that ARP has made an OEM size head stud kit that has the same torque specs as 1/2" head studs provide.......

True......? I can't find them.
is he talking about the custom age 625 ones? they are 400 ish bucks and part number starts with CA.....u torque them to 100 pounds
Old 01-25-2020, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Floorman279
is he talking about the custom age 625 ones? they are 400 ish bucks and part number starts with CA.....u torque them to 100 pounds
The custom aged series is like 700+.

Old 01-25-2020, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by AwesomeAuto
The custom aged series is like 700+.
So is this the right ones for my iron LQ9 block.........

https://www.briantooleyracing.com/ar...-234-4314.html
Old 01-28-2020, 05:26 PM
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.....Anyone know if these will fit my LQ9.......no reply from Tooley.......

https://www.briantooleyracing.com/ar...-234-4314.html
Old 01-28-2020, 06:04 PM
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What length bolts/studs are currently in your block ? Then you can confirm for sure.
Old 01-28-2020, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
What length bolts/studs are currently in your block ? Then you can confirm for sure.
I have no idea. They were in my last engine that was built many years ago....436ci stroker. Now they are in my LQ9.

Old 01-28-2020, 07:13 PM
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what year?
Old 01-28-2020, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by tblentrprz
what year?
My LQ9 was built in 2012.......by AES
Old 01-30-2020, 09:29 AM
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Just used the Tick 1/2" plate kit to drill & tap an iron 6.0 block last night. It's a bit of work but the 1/2" studs are a good bit beefier. Whole kit with studs is cheaper than the 625's.
Old 01-30-2020, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by spray280
Just used the Tick 1/2" plate kit to drill & tap an iron 6.0 block last night. It's a bit of work but the 1/2" studs are a good bit beefier. Whole kit with studs is cheaper than the 625's.
Does the block need to be bare to drill and install the 1/2” studs? Or can I simply remove my old heads, drill/install the 1/2” studs and put my new gaskets and heads on?

Are the torque specs 100 ft/lbs for the 1/2” studs. If yes, then the 625’s are just a much easier and faster job. They are 100 ft/lbs each.
Old 01-30-2020, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by stilealive
My LQ9 was built in 2012.......by AES
the year the block was manufactured will determine whether you need 3 different length studs or two different length studs. thats the difference in the stud kits.
Old 01-30-2020, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by stilealive
Does the block need to be bare to drill and install the 1/2” studs? Or can I simply remove my old heads, drill/install the 1/2” studs and put my new gaskets and heads on?

Are the torque specs 100 ft/lbs for the 1/2” studs. If yes, then the 625’s are just a much easier and faster job. They are 100 ft/lbs each.
If you have the room and can ensure no debris gets anywhere that matters, potentially you could do it in situ. It would be very uncomfortable though.

And what torque any stud can hold will depend on the quality of that stud. I'm going to guess the cheap Cleveland 1/2" studs I assume they are offering are just regular 8740....which really does question if it's worth it over the 625 11mm studs.

When I done my block for 1/2" I opted for the more expensive Viper studs in ARP2000 material. I think they quote you can go to around 120lbft, although I just took them to around 100.
I had tried to buy 625's...wasted a total of 6 months over 2 suppliers and gave up in the end and got refunds from both.

If using truck manifolds, I'd have concerns about Cleveland studs fitting without fouling on anything. They're a little longer than the Viper studs, and the Viper ones are damn tight for clearance on mine. The Viper ones are only a fraction longer than the LS studs
Old 01-30-2020, 01:23 PM
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when going to so much more clamping strength, how much bore deflection do you start seeing? is there a need to rehone with a torque plate?
Old 01-30-2020, 01:29 PM
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Possibly...but I'm sure when making 1000hp, there's some bore flexing going on too. Maybe that will counter any twisting from the initial clamping lol.
Old 01-30-2020, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by stilealive
Does the block need to be bare to drill and install the 1/2” studs? Or can I simply remove my old heads, drill/install the 1/2” studs and put my new gaskets and heads on?

Are the torque specs 100 ft/lbs for the 1/2” studs. If yes, then the 625’s are just a much easier and faster job. They are 100 ft/lbs each.
My questions would be what's the power goal, do either CA625 or 1/2" noticeably increase clamp, and what heads are required to actually get useful deck thickness to make it all worth it. Spending $800+ on studs and $2000+ on heads seem like a boondoggle for meager power goals.

I remember a film paper test showing clamping load between stock, typical studs, and either CA 625 or 1/2" studs but not sure where it ended up. I think this was also brought up along lines of the ching chong studs vs ARP, and then multiple chimed in with chinese stuff going 8's so why spend 2-3x as more for ARP when its not the weak point unless investing in other hard parts. Then you have sloppy guys running 8's with stock bolts
Old 01-30-2020, 02:39 PM
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I have the images from the paper film test somewhere.....somewhere. But I do recall that the 1/2" studs really did give a much better spread of clamp compared to the regular studs. No 625's back then though
And those were probably just regular 8740 1/2" too. I dont even think they used fancy heads for the test...cant recall.


Stock bolts ?

Old 01-30-2020, 04:10 PM
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I just did 1/2 studs on my 5.3 Block. When I get home from work ill post the pictures. cant wait to run 40# On a stock 4 bolt block
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Old 01-30-2020, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
My questions would be what's the power goal, do either CA625 or 1/2" noticeably increase clamp, and what heads are required to actually get useful deck thickness to make it all worth it. Spending $800+ on studs and $2000+ on heads seem like a boondoggle for meager power goals.

I remember a film paper test showing clamping load between stock, typical studs, and either CA 625 or 1/2" studs but not sure where it ended up. I think this was also brought up along lines of the ching chong studs vs ARP, and then multiple chimed in with chinese stuff going 8's so why spend 2-3x as more for ARP when its not the weak point unless investing in other hard parts. Then you have sloppy guys running 8's with stock bolts

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ead-studs.html

Thread with film paper pics. Post 41.
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Old 01-30-2020, 10:44 PM
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Thanks for sharing. I suspect the factory head/deck pressure would drop significantly on the exhaust side with 1100F+ softening things up.


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