I've been repairing rust etc over the last year yes.

How does that affect the previous 20 years of spraying ?

 

It affects it when many others have similar setups with the exact opposite experience. Specifically, many use spraying on the IAT sensor as a failsafe as it will pull timing when the sensor isn't soaked. Plus it always helps to have a running/driving car when constantly telling others their way is wrong

 

I'm not a meth fan, its bad for your teeth.

But I agree you should be much faster than 9.8 with fancy parts doing everything perfectly. I mean hell I can lift at the 1/8th with chyna turbos and no intercooler and coast to his perfectly built machines best time.

 

I could easily drive the car right now...it is a running and driving car. But what's the point ? There's snow and ice on the ground, I want the car painted after the various work...and with lockdowns and other bullshit, there's nowhere to go.

So your argument is a bit retarded.

And trying to use spraying on the sensor as a failsafe is a poor option. Unless your charge temps were insanely high to start with to see a substantial drop in temperature when it sprays. Maybe some are that high if they have no IC, but one would hope anyone with an IC, their charge temps would already be decent. And as the sensors are very slow to respond, it's a terrible failsafe. Something that takes a few seconds for any sizable change in temp to be considered a problem....when the engine has already had many thousands of combustion events in that time period ( or likely detonation events if it didn't spray ). It really isn't that great of a failsafe.

 

Thank you for proving my point.

 

You're drag obsessed though, and no doubt have various drag strips near you...which you've been to many times over the last 10 years or so ?

I got bored with it over 10 years ago when I ran 9.8.

I just use the car occasionally and for fun. I'm not racing anyone and first and foremost it is always a road car for me ( although of course that means different things to different people...but I can drive mine anywhere, any time, run on any fuel and is 100% road legal anywhere it will go.....which most cannot say ). I have no desire for it to be anything other than that, or a trailer queen, or a race car etc etc etc. And lets face it, there is nowhere on this entire island to race it regularly...or even irregularly.

So you're trying to compare apples to elephants.

 

What you agree that dousing it with meth it never changes ? yet if it never changes people use it as a failsafe ?

I don't follow.

 

 

Not obsessed at all, nearest track is hours away and I dont own a trailer. In fact I'm not that big into it but around here those are all the results that people relate to. If a car isnt a road car then its useless to me. I dont know what goes on with cars on your island but if it passes yearly inspection its road legal around here. But I can say my street car is faster than 9.8 with a manual trans on pump gas, two mufflers, and DOT treadwear 100 tires even if it has sacrilege chinese parts on it so thats good enough for me.

 

Blasphemy!

 

What's it take to test a sensor's speed, 5 minutes? I want to know how slow these things are now! I pressed mine into my intake so I can't remove it easy. Some one find out how slow one of these things are and throw up the results!

 

I like this thread where 2 of you battled about this before.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...th-nozzle.html

 

If the sensor can go through 2/3 of its range (sensor range is -40 to 275 if I recall) in a few seconds I dont think its that slow. Plus if the sensor reads too slow for you what exactly are you going to do about it? Sure the air across the sensor might be warmer then its reporting, but who is blowing up engines because of slow IAT sensors? I'd guess its the same people that never read plugs. Lots of cars go very fast without an IAT sensor at all, its not a required input.

 

I had read the GM thermister sensors are only good to a 250* max and anything reported above that is pretty wildly inaccurate. As far as the time it takes to get there VS the actual charge temp would be interesting data is all. Curious how bad it really is. I'd like to toss it in some boiling water and see how long it takes to go from ambient to 212.

A slow sensor is still giving you a repeatable progressively hotter reading to tune by. So even if it's 50* hotter than indicated by the time the ECU sees it, it's still a good tuning tool. You read the plugs and tune based the data you are receiving. So if the plugs look good at an "indicated" 150*, who cares if it's really 200*. If its 20-50-100* off it's not really important as it's still repeatable data that can be used to tune. It's also used in the SD algorithms to help determine fueling at cruise/idle etc. So it's good to have IMO. With fast acting WB02's and 02 trims these days I can see how it's less necessary for sure.

 

Thats what I was getting at earlier, you can leave the line with 70 degree temps and flat line the sensor before the 1/8th mile without an intercooler, so it doesnt seem terribly slow. I know some of the integrated IAT sensors in the MAF housing were slow to respond, but the standalone screw in style sensors seem decent at least for what we are doing. I believe I read somewhere that by the time air gets into the cylinder a 100* reduction in inlet temps is only a 4% gain in power. So at 1000+ hp is 40hp really worth fighting for, especially if it comes with a weight or spool penalty? I know it makes next to no difference in a street car unless you are making bonsai 175MPH runs on the highway.