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Looks good. I am needing a clutch in my c5 too and haven’t even added power yet why I haven’t installed my parts yet. I have the same jacks. Life saver working on these cars. 2 post would be ideal lol.
I'm also going to be taking the Ti Zed 06 axleback off the car and putting my Corsa system back on. I'm NOT fond of the exhaust note from the factory mufflers. Sounds very fart like and it's still very loud. At least the Corsa is clean and crisp.
Thank you underlord. Still waiting patiently to get a refund on that deal.
I think in the long run going with the Innovators West will be the way to go. Or the rods or a piston will let go lol.
Thank you for sharing this Youtube video and making the post in your thread. We apologize for the trouble with the balancer. We've forwarded this to our Private Brands department to review.
Regarding your refund. We've sent you a PM so we can go over your info to check the refund status.
Managed to have the stock idler pulley break off the accessory bracket a couple weeks back.
Been in the process of upgrading from 6 rib belt to 8 rib belt with a 10% overdrive Innovators West Balancer.
So far so good.
Man too bad about the balancer nothing worse than blowing a budget on something that should've/could've been avoided. I'm loving the car and I can't wait to see this thing put some dyno numbers down!
Hopefully sooner than later on the dyno. I want to try and find someone that will work with us on not needing a full dyno tune but is open for advice on any corrections that need to be made without charging a brazillion dollars if that makes sense lol.
I hate to sound jaded, but my last dyno tune was done through a reputable very well known tuner and it was a bust and a waste of 550 hard earned dollars. I will never let that happen again.
I think currently the car is to a point where it can easily make enough power to hurt itself even with a good tune. So the dyno session I'm interested in is more of a safety thing than a max power effort.
I think I have to commit to a safe lower power tune or ultimately building another short block in the future.
Hey swapstang do you have a thread in here on the Porsche? Would love to check that out!
Hopefully sooner than later on the dyno. I want to try and find someone that will work with us on not needing a full dyno tune but is open for advice on any corrections that need to be made without charging a brazillion dollars if that makes sense lol.
I hate to sound jaded, but my last dyno tune was done through a reputable very well known tuner and it was a bust and a waste of 550 hard earned dollars. I will never let that happen again.
I think currently the car is to a point where it can easily make enough power to hurt itself even with a good tune. So the dyno session I'm interested in is more of a safety thing than a max power effort.
I think I have to commit to a safe lower power tune or ultimately building another short block in the future.
Hey swapstang do you have a thread in here on the Porsche? Would love to check that out!
I hear you on the dyno tune stuff. Every car I've put together I tuned myself and while I'm not the greatest at tuning I feel like the money was better spent hourly than to just some tuner building me a tune. I have HPTuners and rent dyno time and tune myself. The gentleman that I rent time from is great and wants to help me learn so I'm sure you could find a similar situation near you that you could work on. It sounds like you have a pretty decent understanding of the tuning process you just need to do it in a controlled environment to play with it now. See where the power is and adjust according and safely.
On a side note I think you aren't giving that LS1 very much credit. Almost anyone will agree that an engine is only as good as it's tune. A bad tune can take apart even the best built motor so just be on the safer side for your tune and you should be good to go. I think I mentioned before that picking up a motor to build could be beneficial too so if it does happen you'll be able to swap without much downtime. An aluminum 5.3 is a good motor and can make quite a bit of power and you don't get hit with the "corvette tax" as opposed to buying a LS1, LS2 or an LS3... at least in the Northeast anyways. If you just want a motor you can always go iron block as well for dirt cheap but that's totally up to you. I think I remember Cleetus McFarland made quite a bit of power from his LSA LS1 and he beat that car unmercifully so I have to believe yours would be able to handle some spirited driving for quite a while.
Funny you mention the Porsche, I'm actually the one that messaged you on youtube about the coolant reservoir the other day, I'm switching to air to water intercoolers in that car and I need something on the smaller side and I think that thing is perfect. Another question for you about your intercooler setup.... Do you run the stock 5psi cap on there? When I had my other LSA setup I had a reservoir from an 08 GT500 and that had a 16lb cap. I read once on an CTS-V forum that someone suspected the bricks collapsing had to do with the pressure in the system being lower than the boost pressure. Saying if it was higher there was a good chance it would not succumb to the external pressure created in the manifold. Think there's any merit to that argument? I only saw 7.8 - 8.2 lbs on my stock pulley setup and my brick wasn't reinforced but I never felt nervous about it. Now that I'm doing it in another vehicle I'm wondering if I should roll with the stock cap (which I ordered) or go with a higher one.
I documented some of the Porsche build on youtube under "Willis theHutt". Search me and you'll find a playlist I have. Once the car is back up and running I'll put up another video and probably start a thread on here which I have been meaning to do.
I am using the 5lb cap that comes with the coolant T. I'm no engineer but I just don't know if you could ever get the intercooler water hot enough to actually create substantial pressure like the engine cooling system. There is an air head space at the top of the coolant T during normal operation above the full line. This air doesn't go away even at the highest of IATs which in my case might be low 100s. In general for such a small intercooler water system I have it seems to work incredibly well. That being said the weather here is generally mild. 90s and 100s are less than two weeks out of the year.
I watched that old Cleetus LSA build back when it was going on live. I seem to recall that topped out around 715 wheel with a nearly identical setup to mine but I am pretty sure they were running E85. We don't have access to E85 in my state unless you buy it in a very expensive blue can.
Anyhooters I made some changes to my new 8 rib belt drive setup for the better IMO.
I got the Innovators west 3inch alternator pulley installed so that should live longer now. Had to lathe cut a little over a 1/16 inch off of it for better spacing. This required sanding off 4 casting bumps on the front case of alternator as well. Worth it.
I also finally found an 8 rib plastic tensioner that is sold through Vortech but it is in fact a dayco. Only problem with it is that it's off on spacing by one belt rib to the radiator side of things. To bring it back to the engine I had to mill off about 3/16s off the mounting ears of the factory idler bracket. That worked perfectly.
Drove it yesterday and spun the tires a few times and the belt didn't fly off. I call that a success lol.
I am using the 5lb cap that comes with the coolant T. I'm no engineer but I just don't know if you could ever get the intercooler water hot enough to actually create substantial pressure like the engine cooling system. There is an air head space at the top of the coolant T during normal operation above the full line. This air doesn't go away even at the highest of IATs which in my case might be low 100s. In general for such a small intercooler water system I have it seems to work incredibly well. That being said the weather here is generally mild. 90s and 100s are less than two weeks out of the year.
I watched that old Cleetus LSA build back when it was going on live. I seem to recall that topped out around 715 wheel with a nearly identical setup to mine but I am pretty sure they were running E85. We don't have access to E85 in my state unless you buy it in a very expensive blue can.
Anyhooters I made some changes to my new 8 rib belt drive setup for the better IMO.
I got the Innovators west 3inch alternator pulley installed so that should live longer now. Had to lathe cut a little over a 1/16 inch off of it for better spacing. This required sanding off 4 casting bumps on the front case of alternator as well. Worth it.
I also finally found an 8 rib plastic tensioner that is sold through Vortech but it is in fact a dayco. Only problem with it is that it's off on spacing by one belt rib to the radiator side of things. To bring it back to the engine I had to mill off about 3/16s off the mounting ears of the factory idler bracket. That worked perfectly.
Drove it yesterday and spun the tires a few times and the belt didn't fly off. I call that a success lol.
Really enjoy the problem solving aspect to build like this.
Love that your right down the street in South Hill, I'm in Tacoma so perhaps one day we'll see each other on the streets!
Nice work on the 8 rib swap! If you continue to have problems, you could always swap to a CTS-V balancer and go with the 3 belt setup.
Unfortunately it will not fit in a corvette. The steering rack is in front of the engine. Like literally there is a 1/4 inch gap between the innovators west balancer and the body of the steering rack.
This is what creates the mandatory need for the custom machined LSA blower snout work from Olson Kustom Works. It has to be modified to Corvette LS spacing.
In the picture below you can see how the C5 is arranged.
Really enjoy the problem solving aspect to build like this.
Love that your right down the street in South Hill, I'm in Tacoma so perhaps one day we'll see each other on the streets!
Thank you ******. Been living here since the 70s. Not sure how much longer I can hold on lol.
If you don't mind me asking where did you get your dyno numbers from? as in shop recommendations.
As mentioned in earlier posts I'm looking for a shop that knows what they're doing but more of a tune by the hour to advise and fix things. Not just a fly by night 500 dollar make big power numbers dyno tune.
