Breaking Up in Boost 10+lbs
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 478
bullshit. Have you tried it? I have. It will allow you to run a slurry wider gap because the factory dwell Is quite low as it is. The dwell settings they have will allow the coils to last past 200k miles. Adding 2ms to it isn’t gonna shorten the life by much. But whatever you say.
Dont force others to make one of your constant rookie mistakes.
Last edited by AwesomeAuto; Jun 5, 2020 at 09:39 PM.
Anyway...the OP is following the same process of trouble shooting my friend did eliminating things in pretty much the same order. What he found was that in some boosted setups ESPECIALLY ONES USING LARGER VALVES like the OP he needed more valve spring than expected. He also changed cam design to a less aggressive ramp rate at the same time as he did valve springs whether that was actually needed or not we don't know. After doing valve springs the issue was eliminated.
Issue FIXED!!!
It ended up being the crank sensor as I expected... BUT why the crank sensor? Well, my block was painted black by the machine shop and turns out the paint they used is some thick stuff and it was just thick enough that it prevented the sensor from fully seating in the bore. It wasn’t caked on by any means but just enough to make it not read at high rpm...! I sanded the paint off the sensor area, popped in a new sensor and took it for a spin and what do you know... revs to 7k as it should. I replaced my entire engine harness and so many other things just for it to be the damn paint causing the issue. I found A thread where a guy had rust on his block, especially in the crank sensor area and he ended up grinding it off and it fixed his crank signal issue so that is what got me thinking to do the same to mine.
It ended up being the crank sensor as I expected... BUT why the crank sensor? Well, my block was painted black by the machine shop and turns out the paint they used is some thick stuff and it was just thick enough that it prevented the sensor from fully seating in the bore. It wasn’t caked on by any means but just enough to make it not read at high rpm...! I sanded the paint off the sensor area, popped in a new sensor and took it for a spin and what do you know... revs to 7k as it should. I replaced my entire engine harness and so many other things just for it to be the damn paint causing the issue. I found A thread where a guy had rust on his block, especially in the crank sensor area and he ended up grinding it off and it fixed his crank signal issue so that is what got me thinking to do the same to mine.
Last edited by 455GTO; Jul 24, 2020 at 10:05 PM.
This was such a nightmare and Ive come to realize the crank sensors on these cars are so sensitive. Like i said i had a similar issue 4 years ago on a different motor but was just the sensor and it would breakup at 6300... everyone thought spark or tune but no, just losing crank signal
